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About Brasso

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    Herberton, QLD, Australia
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    I find everything in the universe interesting. Maybe not doof doof doof music but I'm sure there is something to be learned from that too...

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  1. My pleasure. There's even a Kookaburra laughing at you right at the end!
  2. A slow motion video (phone) of the bounce of Ausfire's anvil. A Kohlswa I believe. I apologize if I have posted in the wrong place or format or anything else. I'll let Aus add any details. Produce_0.mp4
  3. What do you feed Stanley Ausfire? Congrats on the champion ribbon!
  4. Hi Rick, Is this the sort of thing you were thinking about? This was one of my first prints and is pretty rough. I just gave it a quick scuff up with sandpaper and whacked some cheap artists acrylic paint on it. With a bit of filler and some more sanding I think it would make an acceptable pattern for a mould? The only glass work I have done was making beads a long time ago but without a kiln I had problems with them shattering without the annealing process. The STL file is available on Thingiverse if you can find someone with a 3D printer, or I could print you a couple up and post them to you, but I am in Australia so postage may be slow and expensive. All the best, Brasso
  5. That is some nice looking knife hardware John! I've had my Tarantula for a few weeks now and feel I've learned a lot, tho there is a lot more to be learned. After having a good play around with what it can and can't do, now it's time for upgrades for smoother, squarer finer detailed parts. Definitely not plug and play and definitely not for you if you are not a "tinkerer".
  6. Wow Aus! Your photos make it look so simple! 1. The pattern. Green jewellers wax. Scaled from a google images pic to 90mm length on my pc screen then traced (paper on the screen style) and transferred to wax. Carved using mini milling machine, hacksaw, wax file, scalpel blade and various other methods. Cut in half with hacksaw and locating pins epoxied in. 2. Flat half of pattern, lightly powdered in the cope or drag... I can never remember which is which. 3. Ramming a bit of sand 4. Cracked a crucible but proceeding anyway. 5, 6 and 7. Powdering the parting surface with an old tin of Johnson's Baby Powder. 8. Pulling the pipe after ramming the top half. 9. Separated the two half. Looks good. 10. Cut the runner? with pocket knife and press loose sand back in. 11. Pour. Without degassing or anything fancy. 12, 13. Played the waiting game. It is like opening a Christmas present. Thanks for letting me use the forge and taking some lovely pics Aus! Any tips and tricks, questions or constructive criticism welcome. Brasso
  7. Thanks guys. $20 US is about $27.50 Aussie and that sounds pretty reasonable. I hadn't thought that far ahead Frosty. I was just going to make a few of them for fun, but they might actually sell so we'll see. At 200g or 7oz on a hardwood "stump", they would make a nice paperweight.
  8. Hi all. I've been working on this for a while and finally got one poured today. The pattern was carved from green jewellers wax and I used homemade greensand for the mould. This is the first casting from the pattern and it turned out pretty well. There are still a few things I want to tidy up, but I am quite pleased with the result and wanted to share. I only took a pic after it was done because I thought I'd have to make a heap of refinements to the pattern, which I still have to do but nothing major. I'm absolutely sure that Ausfire will want one of these, so I will snap a few pics of the process of making his
  9. Hi Janghas, as Aus said, I did manage to smelt some metallic tin from cassiterite, although not a lot. All I did was mix the cassiterite with fine charcoal and a spoon full of Borax for good luck, threw it in a crucible with a layer of fine charcoal on top to keep oxygen out, and set it in the open forge. I wound the handle for about 15 minutes, allowed it to cool somewhat, then tipped the whole mess out and allowed it to cool right down. Not expecting results, I was quite surprised to find a few blobs of shiny metal among the rubbish. A few bits the size of corn kernels and more like bird shot. 2 or 3 trials later and I had just over an ounce of metallic tin. Next time I will grind my tin finer as I was using alluvial stuff that I panned myself and was a bit coarse. Also I would not charge the crucible as much because it expanded on heating much more than I expected. Good luck with your experiments and stay safe. Brasso.
  10. Glad you like it!! I hope it doesn't go "straight" to the pool room... I need to know if it will wear well. I have a dozen or so to make for a local club and they need them to last! Twas fun making it.... enjoy Aus.. The "A" stands for anvil and the 001 is obvious.
  11. Nice work Aus! Good key holders I reckon... Or Dolphin torch holder... right beside the door!
  12. G'day all! I've been working on this belt buckle for probably two months now. The pattern I carved from green jewelers wax after printing out a drawing I found on Google images. The outer shape was traced from an old buckle that was laying around. The texture was done with a soldering iron. I used homemade green sand and decided to leave the back flat and attach the fixtures later. I experimented with making the fixtures a part of the casting but wasn't happy with the results, I was trying to poke holes in the sand on the flat back part of the mould in the appropriate places but my sand was too crumbly. I was using typesetting lead for the first test pours. Now I am at the stage of working out how to attach the fixtures, and this is what I am thinking.. brass tubing silver soldered on with 3mm brass rod as the belt attachment. The hook part that hooks into the holes of the belt I think I have worked out. I am not sure that my brass tubing has a thick enough wall and I'm afraid it is going to wear too fast. It is .45mm thick wall. Considering I can't make the ends of the rod very long at all, because it would be too difficult to spread the ends then clamp the ends into the tube. There is not much clearance there. I also need to bend the rod more neatly. I hope these photo's are ok... new phone. And unsure of re-sizing procedures here. All the best, Brasso.
  13. No trouble with condensation Dave, altho I had the wide track cylinders fill up with fuel once. That was NOT fun. Also filled the sump with fuel (gasoline). Had to drain and fill a couple of times to get that right. Turned out that the fuel tap is off at 45 degrees... NOT at the factory 90 degrees and overnight EVERYTHING filled with petrol (Gas i spose). I found out because the flywheel felt hard and squirted liquid petrol from the de-comps for a lot of turn-overs. VERY slow turnovers so as to not ignite. Got that cleared and drained and replaced the sump oil a few times and good as new... Lesson learned... Know how your fuel tap works. As for oil leaks... we now have sawdust trays under all the tractors, English cars, American cars, all Nations motorcycles and small engines. EVERYTHING here leaks a little bit... All the best, Brasso