Royal

Preview attachment IMG_1223.JPG IMG_1223.JPG 132 KB Yep! One thing that isn't in the picture is a small circle directly beneath the flame where the propane cools it down...but it's kinda too late to change that I guess. It also turns out that it takes a lot more energy to move leaf spring metal than I thought, so I scrapped the coupe coupe idea...maybe I'll make a karambit from a wrench, who knows?

Another Update: Well, the forge is now fully functional. After welding the nipple to a cross-piece on top of the forge (dropped down enough to remain flush with the inside of the bricks), I noticed that it wasn't burning as hot or efficient as I wanted, so we raised the orifice in the bell housing. As a result, I can get forge-welding temps at about 20PSI within 2-3 minutes of putting it in the forge. Besides that, it takes ~10 minutes at 10-15 PSI to get the burner warmed up, and the bricks to turn sunburst yellow. If the zinc coating on the housing is burning off, then I guess I'm lucky the garage door is always open with the forge out front :). I plan on making a coupe-coupe machete with a bit of leaf spring from a Jeep in the near future. Thank you so much for the help and feedback! ~Royal

Update: OK! So, I followed your advice (matched Jarom's torch exactly, got a PSI regulator, played with the air tuning, etc.) and it works now!! Here are the changes: Found the correct bell reducer at Lowe's in galvanized (that's a bad idea, I know, but we will make sure it doesn't get hot) Replaced the pipe nipple to full 8" length Got a 0-20 PSI regulator (It's weaker than recommended, but it works) Drilled holes in the bell reducer to allow greater airflow. We noticed that when we blew air into the forge with a copper tube, it got WAY hotter. As a result, the torch heated the metal to a yellow color, which I think is forge-welding temperature(?), and made it really easy to work with. The bricks do take some time to heat up, but after 10-ish minutes at 10-15 PSI they turn to a bright cherry-red color. Now that this is solved, we will remove the top layer of bricks, drill a hole in the two remaining roof bricks, and weld the nipple to a piece of metal to go across the top and finish the frame. Thank you so much for the help and feedback! ~ Royal

Hello everyone! So we (me and my father) just tried to make one of Jarom Rush's Venturi burners (instructional video series) for our first forge (of Zoeller's design). However, I am having a few problems: 1. We couldn't find any 1 1/4" to 3/4" reducers, so we put an additional piece to decrease to the appropriate size. I assume that by deviating from the original design, we messed something up. 2. We have no adjustable PSI regulator. The one we tried to use seemed far too low for the torch to do anything; do I even need a PSI regulator? 3. When we light the flame, it doesn't seem...right. In other words, it either will not light unless we keep the flame to it, or if we turn the PSI's down the flame is too weak. Here is the video of the forge in action without the weak PSI regulator, though you should bear in mind that this is just a quickly thrown-together pile of firebricks in a frame to test the burner. If you don't want to watch Jarom's thing, I put a list of all the parts' dimensions below the video. IMG_1074.MOV PARTS LIST: Orifice hole: #57 (0.043") Nozzle: 8" length of 3/4" black iron pipe. (We cut off an extra inch afterwards because we read some forums and thought it would help ) Reducers: 1 1/4" to 1" bell reducer, followed by a 1" to 3/4" adapter - 1/4" street elbow - 1/4" union - 1/4" brass plug (drilled for the orifice) Is the #57 orifice too large, or should I go with the 0.035" MIG tip? I'd appreciate any feedback or fixes. I want to make this work so I can make a leaf spring karambit soon! ~ Royal