Mcholla

Has anyone tried Plicast HyMOR 3000 KK castable refractory?  I have a copy of the SDS and am considering it, but I am just wondering if anybody has tried it previously and has an opinion.  For reference here is what they are listing on the SDS:

66%-76% Aluminosilicate (Mullite)

5.1%-15% Aluminosilicate (Kyanite)

8.47% Quartz

7.73 % Cristobalite

5.5% Amorphous Silica

1.0%-9.0% Bauxite

3.4%-13% Calcium Aluminate Cement

1.8% titanium Oxide

I would appreciate any thoughts.

Thank you,

Jeff

Plibrico-SDS-2109--Low-Cement-HyMOR-3000-KK.pdf

If I was going to go with a naturally aspirated ribbon burner, is Mizzou an acceptable castable for this or does one need to step up to green cast?  Currently I don't have any of either as I typically use Kast-O-Lite for my builds (but I have seen some suggest it is not preferred for ribbon burners).

And thank you to both of your for the insight, I appreciate the help.

So I am currently working on a new forge primarily for pattern forging and knife making.  The internal dimensions (after insulations) are 7x7x6.5 for a volume in cubic inches of 318.5.  My question is this, with the intention of consistently achieving a welding heat, would it be optimal to do a single 3/4" burner dead center, or burners (more than likely 1/2") centered over the chamber on the diagonal.

Thank you in advance,

Jeff

 

"...does that mean you're going to distribute your knowledge through other means?"

I have been doing so for the last two years on this forum.

What to do about the book is still being decided; maybe I will go with Amazon for my next publisher...

And for that I say thank you.

Jeff

I understand, does that mean you're going to distribute your knowledge through other means?

Can do on all accounts.

Jeff

Darn shame if you ask me.  I was looking forward to getting my hands on a physical copy instead of digital.  My kids call me cranky because I hate ready a book on a tablet.

I am going to have to order some and play a little.  

Jeff

For the record, Frosty is miles and I mean miles farther down this road than I am.  His advice to check out forges 101 and burners 101 is great.  I have learned so much by reading those sections over and over again.

Not a problem, glad to try and help.

Jeff

Big Jim, 

I am far from the expert of many of the others, but I see a couple of problems.  First my understanding is that red devil is a IR coating, rather a refractory cement used to hold bricks together.  I would check with Wayne County, he has some alternative products that are less expensive alternatives to itc.  Second I would not use the fire brick, it is a fuel hog.  I would either cast the floor with your kast-o-lite or track down a kiln shelf.  Again not an expert take it for what it is worth.

Jeff

Did you find that you required a mold release on your form, or did it naturally release from the tile mold as the material dewatered?

Thank you,

Jeff

That is true, so many burners so little time.  Out of curiosity, how is the book update going these days?

Thanks,

Jeff

It's an interesting topic and have started reading up on it.  Came across a person throwing crucibles on a potters wheel out zircopax and 3-4% Veegum T.  

So what is the deal with Veegum and or bentonite clay?  Is it being looked at for a kiln was, a hot face, refractory material, or all of the above?

thank you,

jeff

I am a perpetual tinkerer, so you are spot on.  I am sure I will end up with several options in the pursuit of knowledge and serviceable burners.

Thank you,

Jeff

Now you have me thinking hard about 3/8" burners.  I may have to give that one a shot just to see if I can do it and end up with a keeper.

Thanks,

Jeff

I assume that with you designs, 3/8" burners means that I am into capillary tubes instead of mig tips?  Or is there a better way to get a correctly sized fuel nozzle for a 3/8" burner?

Thank you,

Jeff

Thanks Frosty I appreciate the wealth of knowledge that this site has.  It has become my past time, drink in one hand tablet in the other.

Good deal.  Thank you for the help.

Having gone from a 3/4" burner down to a single 1/2" burner, do you feel like 2 1/2" burners would be useful or a significant amount of over kill and over complication?

Thank you,

Jeff

I am starting to gather materials for what is going to be my first attempt at a forge build.  It is going to be a Freon tank mini forge, 2" inches of ceramic wool with rigidizer, most likely kast-o-lite 30 hot face, still trying to decide on a kiln wash / IR coating.  I believe I have read everything in Forges 101 as well as Burners 101, and have what is probably a dumb question that I hope someone can answer for me.  Would I be  better to go with a single 3/4" burner, or 2 smaller (1/2" or 3/8") burners for this build.  I am looking to have a solid build (never going to be perfect) that is going to be reasonably fuel efficient, while still being able to hit welding temps (not at all times, but when desired).