Mcholla
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Everything posted by Mcholla
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Has anyone tried Plicast HyMOR 3000 KK castable refractory? I have a copy of the SDS and am considering it, but I am just wondering if anybody has tried it previously and has an opinion. For reference here is what they are listing on the SDS: 66%-76% Aluminosilicate (Mullite) 5.1%-15% Aluminosilicate (Kyanite) 8.47% Quartz 7.73 % Cristobalite 5.5% Amorphous Silica 1.0%-9.0% Bauxite 3.4%-13% Calcium Aluminate Cement 1.8% titanium Oxide I would appreciate any thoughts. Thank you, Jeff Plibrico-SDS-2109--Low-Cement-HyMOR-3000-KK.pdf
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If I was going to go with a naturally aspirated ribbon burner, is Mizzou an acceptable castable for this or does one need to step up to green cast? Currently I don't have any of either as I typically use Kast-O-Lite for my builds (but I have seen some suggest it is not preferred for ribbon burners). And thank you to both of your for the insight, I appreciate the help.
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So I am currently working on a new forge primarily for pattern forging and knife making. The internal dimensions (after insulations) are 7x7x6.5 for a volume in cubic inches of 318.5. My question is this, with the intention of consistently achieving a welding heat, would it be optimal to do a single 3/4" burner dead center, or burners (more than likely 1/2") centered over the chamber on the diagonal. Thank you in advance, Jeff
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And for that I say thank you. Jeff
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I understand, does that mean you're going to distribute your knowledge through other means?
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Can do on all accounts. Jeff
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Darn shame if you ask me. I was looking forward to getting my hands on a physical copy instead of digital. My kids call me cranky because I hate ready a book on a tablet.
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I am going to have to order some and play a little. Jeff
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Question on castable refractory
Mcholla replied to James Conyers's topic in Insulation and Refractories
For the record, Frosty is miles and I mean miles farther down this road than I am. His advice to check out forges 101 and burners 101 is great. I have learned so much by reading those sections over and over again. -
Question on castable refractory
Mcholla replied to James Conyers's topic in Insulation and Refractories
Not a problem, glad to try and help. Jeff -
Question on castable refractory
Mcholla replied to James Conyers's topic in Insulation and Refractories
Big Jim, I am far from the expert of many of the others, but I see a couple of problems. First my understanding is that red devil is a IR coating, rather a refractory cement used to hold bricks together. I would check with Wayne County, he has some alternative products that are less expensive alternatives to itc. Second I would not use the fire brick, it is a fuel hog. I would either cast the floor with your kast-o-lite or track down a kiln shelf. Again not an expert take it for what it is worth. Jeff -
Did you find that you required a mold release on your form, or did it naturally release from the tile mold as the material dewatered? Thank you, Jeff
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That is true, so many burners so little time. Out of curiosity, how is the book update going these days? Thanks, Jeff
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It's an interesting topic and have started reading up on it. Came across a person throwing crucibles on a potters wheel out zircopax and 3-4% Veegum T.
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So what is the deal with Veegum and or bentonite clay? Is it being looked at for a kiln was, a hot face, refractory material, or all of the above? thank you, jeff
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I am a perpetual tinkerer, so you are spot on. I am sure I will end up with several options in the pursuit of knowledge and serviceable burners. Thank you, Jeff
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Now you have me thinking hard about 3/8" burners. I may have to give that one a shot just to see if I can do it and end up with a keeper. Thanks, Jeff
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I assume that with you designs, 3/8" burners means that I am into capillary tubes instead of mig tips? Or is there a better way to get a correctly sized fuel nozzle for a 3/8" burner? Thank you, Jeff
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Thanks Frosty I appreciate the wealth of knowledge that this site has. It has become my past time, drink in one hand tablet in the other.
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Good deal. Thank you for the help.
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Having gone from a 3/4" burner down to a single 1/2" burner, do you feel like 2 1/2" burners would be useful or a significant amount of over kill and over complication? Thank you, Jeff
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I am starting to gather materials for what is going to be my first attempt at a forge build. It is going to be a Freon tank mini forge, 2" inches of ceramic wool with rigidizer, most likely kast-o-lite 30 hot face, still trying to decide on a kiln wash / IR coating. I believe I have read everything in Forges 101 as well as Burners 101, and have what is probably a dumb question that I hope someone can answer for me. Would I be better to go with a single 3/4" burner, or 2 smaller (1/2" or 3/8") burners for this build. I am looking to have a solid build (never going to be perfect) that is going to be reasonably fuel efficient, while still being able to hit welding temps (not at all times, but when desired).