Branding Iron

Sand blasted and powder coated. One step closer! Any reason I couldn’t pour Babbitt over paint?

That’s a fantastic find and will be a great reminder for you. However, shame on you for not being back a bunch more to take advantage of free shipping!! What are the current weight restrictions?

What is the return pressure testing at prior to enter filter assembly? What is your filter rated for?

The best option is to leave it alone! Try using it for awhile as is and see if it interferes with your work (highly unlikely).

Couple packages came in the mail today! Motor mount, Babbitt, forming shaft, shims, and rebuilding video.

Fowllife - I was thinking thirds as well. What are those metal Chanel strips on the inside edge of the forms to allow bending rebar out to connect to next slab and give a locking channel called? Seems like they could be useful in a scenario like this. Vibrascreed could be your new best friend - try one out sometime!

Partially disassembled, hoping I don’t have to take clutch off. Don’t see any cracks in Babbitt on shaft from outside yet. Babbitt bearings on body were shot. Main body was dropped off last night for blasting and powder coating. Yes, that’s a bit of a splurge, but I think she’s worth it!

Picked up this project last weekend. Haven’t owned a power hammer before and never been involved with rebuilding one - looking forward to the education from all of you! Delivered new in 1918 to Holstein, IA. She’s a little overdue for a makeover. I’ll figure out posting pics, I know we all enjoy seeing them. Rebuild book is in hand with Sid’s LG videos on the way...

Did you happen to weigh it?

Yes, the horizontal blocking installed between studs. No, it won’t help initial stopping on outside from fire source like double layering Sheetrock or using PermaBase, but it will certainly help slow spread should something catch and it provides a nice support for nailing/screwing material to.

Whatever you end up doing consider fire blocking even if it’s not required.

In reading your threads I feel your conundrum. Buying property for an investment and preserving historical relevance is a tight line most cannot manage. A few questions for consideration: 1) If the shop is cleared out is the intent to sell the building, razed or? 2) What would it take to preserve the structure in its current state to ensure safety and usability? 3) If you keep the structure and smithing contents for use does this allow for other needed building space? As you continue to discover and organize don’t overlook insurance needs on both the structure and contents.

Responded to an ad advertising an anvil for sale - ended up being just a couple miles from my house. Nothing special for an anvil, but will be great for the kids keeping them off my good one and less than $2/lb. Had a post vise in great shape that also came home with me for $25. The best thing that came home with me from that outing were great stories! His father was a full time blacksmith... Being in a very small town he could hear his dad hammering away on the anvil pretty much anywhere he went. Sadly all of his fathers tools were scattered to the wind long ago.

I started taking my youngest to events at 6 and he had a great time hammering out some knife like pointy things. As long as they have the ability to listen and follow directions... safety gear and safe handling are critical. Take a class or two together it’s a great bonding and learning experience. Start off with some basic fundamentals in forging to avoid frustrations of not making a great knife right off the bat.

There is only one right answer in this case - leave it alone!

Small local contractor, Habitat for Humanity or local window replacement companies would be a much better place to start. An abandoned farmhouse in Oklahoma is a good place to stumble into trouble. Snakes, meth labs, and people associated with property who don’t want you there even though they may not own it... bad combination.

My advise is worth just as much as I’m charging you for it... 6” concrete for your shop is significantly more expensive and overkill unless you have specific ideas not mentioned. If 4” is fine for your cars what will you be putting in that needs 6”? 2’ rebar grid would be overkill in my area too - 3’ would more than suffice. A large power hammer would have its own footing. Take the cost savings from your concrete and insulate the ceiling. Heat and AC are really nice... A double layer of 5/8” Sheetrock (or whatever local code requires) might be better than having a curtain?

Personally I’d take a twisted wire cup brush and clean her up. She’ll look better and you’ll feel better. Yes, you overpaid, but scrap price is a bit harsh. Should be a lot better than what many start on and you won’t feel too bad about those missed hits. Post a pic when it’s mounted.

Less than $100. Any offer over $50 would take it out of my shed. I’m guessing there’s more problems than just the hole too... Forges can still be easily found at a reasonable price ($300 and less) in Iowa.

Horse head on each side could make a nice addition on a few.

Try searching Abiezer Jameson.

From a newbie view I appreciated seeing lots of different steps within a process, their jig table and new ideas for railing. And I always love seeing other shops! Might have a little forge hood envy now... Thank you for bringing up safety points. Always good to be thinking about even if the delivery is disagreeable.

Really, no one sees the eagle?! My wife accuses me of being a bit color blind, but this is more significant. Perhaps I should get my eyes checked.

More important is the effort given in finding the right piece of wood for the mallet head. A good tight grained burl, tap root base or gnarled piece with a ton of tight grained visible eyes from limbs (at least 1/2 dozen for a good sized mallet) should suffice nicely. A good head can be cut, worked green and put to immediate use without issue. The handle would be best to use at least something air dried to avoid any major twisting.

Some under the Rockies and many more stored in warehouses awaiting the next Y2K. Just kidding of course. The Boomer generation here in the U.S. represents a significant portion of collectors and those who have the means to spend large sums on their hobbies. There will be some amazing estate sales in my lifetime! In the interim I’ll continue to make my wish list for metal and wood working tools...