Bob Cofer

I am on 5 acres on a dead end dirt road. My nearest neighbor is over 400 yards away through the woods. I doubt he or she would smell it. BUT it does conjures up some images!!

LOL That is truly FUNNY!!

The balance point is about 1-1/2 inches above the handle.

Thank you very much. I think it looks good too. The balance is nice and comfortable. The brass and SS nuts makes it a heavy piece. But I like the way it looks and feels in my hand. I am looking at forge welding videos on u tube and might find so high carbon steel to forge weld to the blade or the head of the ax. I don't know yet. I am going to learn to forge weld, that is my next goal. Then hardening steel. After I get a good grasp on those two, project # 2 will follow.

Again, all good advice and thank you every one for your input. I have a lot to consider for the next project. I will post pics when it is done.

Do you have the recipe for this superquench? and would this work on mild steel? Next question is testing the steel. I have looked over here and there for the test. I know there is a grinding test and breaking test. The grinding/spark test to me seems a bit difficult to tell just by looking at sparks unless you have a good eye and lots of experience. the breaking test seems the way to go for me. To quote Lanternnate: "Even a simpleton like me can tell a snap from a bend." I am sure I can tell that to. Thanks again for all the help and advice, and when the project #2 is finished, I will post a picture. Bob

Thanks for all the feed back guys. I do think I will just hang it on the wall. What about coil spring steel? Leaf springs? Lawn mower blades? I have some of all those laying around. Harding, what to use works best? 5W-30 motor oil? Someone was telling me about a "receipt" that had salt, water, dawn dish soap and some other stuff mixed together. WHAT?? Any thoughts on what to use would be appreciated. I will work the next project out of better steel. Thanks again!!! we think he means hardening, there are pinned sticky posts about heat treating, we suggest you read them

Been awhile since I was here. Last time we talked about an Peter Wright anvil I was given. Now I thought I would show you my first project. The main body is mild steel, then the handle I threaded this and put on a brass nut followed by a few stainless steel nuts and another brass nut. the last brass nut I threaded and put on a larger brass nut. I braised both ends and tig welded the SS nuts together. Overall length is 20 inches. I am curious about harding mild steel, as this project was cut out of a 1/4 inch steel plate that I had laying around. I used 5W-30 motor oil. Good or bad? What would be best? thanks again for sharing all your knowledge. Bob

Thanks again for all the good information. Looks to me like it is time to start playing with some metal.

Thanks you guys. I thought as my first attempt to make a knife, this steel would be a place to start. I only have 2 blades, 24" X 2.5" X 0.25" heavy thick pieces. I am familiar with the heat and break on the steel, I will do this. The blacksmith at the shop I worked at explained that to me. So what about truck leaf springs? Same thing? Heat and break? As you can tell this is all new to me, and I do appreciate any and all the help I can get. .

Thomas, Thanks again. On to another question. Old Lawn mower blades, the flat ones, would they be good steel to use to make a knife?

Thanks Thomas, I appreciate the input. I did know that welding on an anvil was a no-no. We had one in our shop where I worked. I don't remember the brand, I never got to use it either. There was a fellow employee who was the blacksmith, forge, power hammer and anvil were all HIS and HIS alone, if you know what I mean.

Thomas thanks for your replies to my dilemma. I can not tell if it was preheated. I do not know what rod or wire was used. When metal is heated it often changes colors. This looks to be evenly colored, except for the weld itself. I worked with mild steel and stainless steel over my 27 year career, that is why I think think this is stainless steel weld, no rust on the weld. The rebound, that I was told is good, is not really good, I would say fair. I used a ball peen hammer to bounce on the anvil, not sure what else to use. As far as price goes, this is a present to me. P.S. some grinding was done after the welding.

First thanks to the many responses I received. Then I wish to apologize. I did not have the anvil in my possession at the time of my first post. I was told about the anvil. I was told the edge on the top would need repair. . I see, after it arrived this morning, that someone has done some welding on the edges. Looks like stainless steel weld to me. not sure what was used. I hope these photos help with the following new question. So my new question is this fixable? Is this a usable anvil? I am new to heating and beating metal. I am a retired welder/fabricator, and in my "old age" I want to learn to make knifes. I have the forge and now an anvil. Thanks guys. Looking forward to what you all think. Sincerely, Bob Cofer

I received an "old" Peter Wright anvil. I have 2 questions. (1) How to tell the weight, there is 1 1 4 on the side. I was told that this is a code for the weight. I have been told it could weigh anything from 114 pounds to 144 pounds. (2) The table top needs repairing. The table is flat and has a good ring and rebound, but needs to be repaired. Edges have chips and are rounded over. How is this done? Machinist milling off the top? Welding the edges? Thanks in advance, I will take a photo and post later. Sincerely, Bob Cofer