Irondragon Forge & Clay

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Everything posted by Irondragon Forge & Clay

  1. At $4.54 a pound U.S. is a little steep however it does look to be in very good shape. The rounded over part is called a radius and is a good thing for working over the edge.
  2. Unfortunately they are an invasive species and in large numbers will kill host trees.
  3. Welcome aboard... we won't remember that once leaving this post, hence the suggestion to edit your profile to show location. This thread will help you get the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST Pictures of the anvil will help giving advice about it.
  4. Now that is a critical eye, for inspecting your work and it is a look of approval.
  5. I'm thinking you are right, unless you are planing to forge large ships anchors.
  6. In all probability, it would do neither fuel well. It would be better to build a separate propane forge and use the coal forge as the table when running it.
  7. Lets wait to see if Frosty or Mikey weighs in on this, they are the guru's on that.
  8. Yep, you are right, it's been a long time since I looked at the directions and most mount's I have seen were straight in.
  9. No matter what size shop you build, it will only be one-half the size you need. ~ GMoore
  10. If I remember correctly, Frosty's T-burner doesn't use the 45° elbow where the burner goes into the forge. I think the elbow would change the fuel/air flow.
  11. Welcome aboard. Have you read this yet? READ THIS FIRST If you edit your profile to show your location it will help with answers because many are location dependent. I hope after reading this thread you have scraped the PoP & Sand. There are many discussions in the Forges 101 thread about lining a forge. Generally it's rigidized fiber like K-O-Wool or equivalence with a hard facing of castable refractory like Satanite or Kast-O-Lite.
  12. My Lincoln Tombstone says 50amp input. I have two circuits that I use it with. One has 40amp double-pole breakers which I've used for years with up to 125amp output the other has 60amp double-pole breakers that it will run on at max output (i think is 275amps).
  13. With the cast iron pan, it's advisable to clay it so it doesn't crack from the heat.
  14. It's viewable but, there is sound of the hammer running but no movement after two hammer strikes.
  15. The Buffalo 200 is a very good blower, from what I see ya done good.
  16. I would spend no more than $360 US on it. The welding rods would cost almost that much to repair it.
  17. You can get manuals for all Lincoln welders on their web site.
  18. Without an exhaust opening the forge will not do well. So yes cut openings for the exhaust. BTW... Welcome aboard, have you read this yet? It will help you get the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST You might want to look through the Forges 101 section for ideas on the exhaust openings. What is your forced air source? Can't see it in the pictures.
  19. I don't have one but have used another smiths NC Knifemaker. It had no trouble reaching welding temps, although I think he said it needed to be coated with Plistix 900. That was several years ago.
  20. They are Farrier hoof clinchers. For clinching horseshoe nails.
  21. I use .22 cal rat/snake shot in an old H&R Model 949 revolver to control rats in the garage & smithy. Never miss and no damage to background like siding & rafters.
  22. I know this is a silly question, but are you also turning off the fuel to that burner?
  23. Welcome back, you may notice some changes to the forum due to software upgrades.