OlioReader

I found this fun little bench vice at an estate sale. It is made by the Luther Grinder Manufacturing Co. (Milwaukee). The jaws are 2 1/2", opens up to 3 1/4 inches and weighs 11 lbs. It is in great shape; I just used a wire brush and put 3-in-1 oil on the threads to bring it back to good working order. I still have some rust to take care of, but it seems superficial. I've never seen a bench vice like this and I think it will work great for my small forging projects. I don't have a dedicated space where I can permanently set up my forge/anvil/vice so I won't need to carry my huge 6" jaw machinist vice to the work area. I didn't find much about the Luther company. My internet sleuthing only brought me to a brief post on the vintage machinery site: " This company is known to have been active in the 1910s and 1920s, and probably for longer. They made hand-powered bench grinders." Not much else out there about them that I can find. Does anyone else have any ideas about the company or when this may have been made?

I cleaned up the logo a bit. After reading anvils in america, I am now sure that it is an arm and hammer as black frog suggested. I can't make out the weight under the logo other than a 0 1 According to Anvils in America The serial number of 1127 has it made in 1900 or 1901. There is also a 'C' stamped on the left front foot I did a rebound test with a 1 inch ball bearing and got 90% across the entire face.

I used a rear rotor that was had the ebrake integrated. It's a bit deeper than a std rotor but not as deep as a drum. The center hole is smaller than the black iron floor flange used for the air pipe. I can simply drop the pipe in without using bolts. I then cut doughnut out of steel plate to cover the lug nut holes. It is held by an old steel lawn mower deck, and held up by cinder blocks.

Just the one above right now. It didn't get more defined in this round. I'll have to get a bit more aggressive to get it to show more. From what I can see it looks a bit like this (found online)

So I got a bit more off for the serial number. I gave it one more shot with the paint stripper. I can see 4 numbers now. I think they are 1127. I can't tell if there is a fifth number; it doesn't look like it from what I can tell

Ok, I got a bit of the paint off with a safe paint remover. I still can't find a serial number. The question now is how far should I take it? Hit it with a wire wheel? Another round of stripper? Leave it alone and put a light coat of paint to give it an even finish?

That is probably it. I bet these were homemade and application specific... Thanks!

Thanks! I'll get some and see how she cleans up!

here are the pics I have. There isn't a cooling channel that runs the length. One of the pictures shows a second one that is made out of 1/4 round and it has a break in it that was repaired with looks like a brass solder. It is still a bit wobbly so if the fix was successful, it wasn't used in high torque situations.... I got these at an estate sale with a bunch of other steel dirt cheap. this guy had tons of large taps, dozens of files, cold chisels, antiques wrenches and planes.. I couldn't figure out the hobby that made him collect such a varied shop

about 30 inches long, 3/8 round. 4 inch single flute with both edges sharp. Almost looks hand made but the other end has tabs that look to go into a handle.

I'm a passionate newbie at forging and finally got my home brake drum forge and railroad track anvil set up before Christmas. I haven't had much of an opportunity to forge in January ao I've I've had time to peruse craigslist and I found this 96lb anvil and snatched it up. It has great rebound according to the ball bearing test and is flat across the face. The edges are a little beat up but not too bad in my opinion. It has two layers of paint so I can't make out the markings. Anyone have a guess to the potential maker? What is the best way to remove the old paint?