Seamus

Well thanks for the link
That's sort of what I was thinking of doing

Can anyone identify the machine this fellow used to grind his blades?
The accompanying article says he was a stock removal man.
Looks like the machine is set up to grind two sides at once
and presumably create a hollow grind.
Is this something he fabricated or something he
modified, or...?




The article proper

https://clarksonhistory.wordpress.com/2013/05/06/secrets-of-the-dead-the-richtig-knife/

Okey, obviously got the right guys to talk to here.

Thanks for the image link G.O.G. 
What I see looks like a choker chain with a hand made

grab hook on one end and a large link on the other.

I'll show her that and see what she says

Googling about a bit after I posted here, I did find

 

http://store.chainsawr.com/products/keyhole-chain-hook-loggergrab

 

and

 

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_479598_479598

 

No way I can make them that cheaply, but I'll see if that's what she wants.

Maybe we can trade something.  She's got an industrial Singer sewing machine

and I have canvas I'd like to mend.

 

Nobody, I followed the link, but my Google Book skills aren't that good.

All I can see is an excerpt from pages  141 and 148
How do I get it to show me the pictures on pages 55 & 60 ?

Notownkid, got your email.  You're on the right track.
She does wood turning, and uses the ponys to haul logs

now and again.  Nothing big/heavy she said.  I expressed my

concerns about liability, and that she'd be better off with genuine

logging hardware, but she's a fairly small woman and on the north

side of 50, so she's not about to get involved with anything over 200 lbs

or so she says.  Anywho, it's an interesting project for me, nothing ventured

nothing gained.  Go ahead and send the pictures to my email if you can.

I had thought I had set up things so I'd get emails telling me when someone

answered my question, but it doesn't seem to be working.  Maybe I did it wrong

or maybe Yahoo dropped the ball.

More anon


 

Woman with Haflingers wants a "bitch hook"
No, that's what she said, honest.

Looked it up, and found

 

bitch hook n. a curved metal device used with a chain

to hold or secure lumber or other things,

or to brake a sled on descents. Also bitch link.

 

Editorial Note: The unpublished manuscript for the Lexicon of Trade Jargon

(circa 1938-39, now at the Library of Congress) includes in its section on

“Lumber Workers’ Slang and Jargon” an entry for bitch chain

and defines it as a “Heavy, short chain with hook and ring,

used to fasten the lower end of a ‘gin pole’ (q.v.) to a sled or car when loading logs.

 

bitch link, “In logging: a pear-shaped link on the end of a chain,

larger and heavier than other links.

When the chain is run through an opening

a choker can be looped through this link to secure it

 

Okey.  Anyone have one, or can direct me to a picture of same?

D'Oh!

You're right Doc!

Don't find a technique forum, so posting here.
Apologies if this isn't the right forum.

How do you upset to one side of a square rod?

I've wanted to make a pair of holdfasts for a joiners workbench
since I first read about a guy named Rob Tarule
using them in an article in Fine Woodworking.
They're very fast and flexible compared to a vise.

Since I read that article, Chris Schwarz has gone on a tear
and popularized the Roubo workbench, so much so that
you can't hardly swing a dead possum without hitting
one on the Interwebs.

Peter Ross recently made a close if not exact replica
of the holdfast illustrated in André Jacob Roubo's
L'Art du Menuisier, the book that started the whole thing,
for Schwarz and you can see the original illustration here





and Ross' results here

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/workbenches/that%E2%80%99s-not-a-holdfast

and some "work in progress" shots here:

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/workbenches/straight-from-the-frenchmans-mouth

In the first illustration of Ross working on the bar
it looks to me like he has upset on one side
midway down the bar. The upset is to make
the mass for the shoulder of the head.

I've upset on end, but not midway and not
to one side like that. What's the technique?

I know you can make a holdfast by bending
but that's not what I'm interested in.

Thanks for any suggestions

There's a few pics
here

Groups -> projects -> forge

but click on the preview image
in the right hand column first
because the full size ones are quite
large and bound to tie up your
machine if you have a slow connection

Either not too many have a favorite, or there are a lot of us using power/air hammers? Or just a lot of Strong-Silent types...

I just got a Farriers rounding hammer no name, weighs 2 lbs at a junque shoppe for $5.00 or so last month. Haven't tried it yet, but am looking forward to it. The Japanese hammers strike me (hyuk hyuk hyuk) as interesting, but they're pricey.

Also got a 40 oz. Plumb with an 18" handle at the aforementioned junque shoppe. It has an uncommonly sharp peen, to my eye. I splurged on a Sears/Craftsman Cross Peen because I was amazed how good the handle felt and thought I would use it as a pattern/reference for sanding the rest of them. It is simailar in profile to the Plumb, but not as sharp.

The handle more than anything will I think decide for me what my favorite is.

What I don't understand is why the cross peen is so common and a diagonal or straight peen is not. Standing at the anvil, I can immediately see the advantage to the diagonal and straight over the cross. They would line up better, or more naturally, for me anyway.

The Hofi and the Ozarks one are just waaaaaaaaay outta my league.

Outside, covered, 55 gallon drum(s)
under an open shed roof.

Yeah, they've been around awhile
Have not taken a class there, but hope to.
Wish there were more like them - i.e. not just
blacksmith classes but traditional farming methods,
wheel wrighting, dry & wet cooperage, etc. etc.

My buddy in Maine
who posts on an old tools group
made himself a framing slick for
an upcoming T.F. class/project.
I asked him if I could post the story
here and he agreed. FWIW
Galoot is an honorif meaning someone who
eschews the use of electron burning tools
when assaying woodworking projects,
preferring instead to hew to the line of our
forebears and use old or antique tools.
Saint Roy is Roy Underhill of the Woodwrights Shop
on PBS. I believe that's all the decoding necessary

Gentle Galoots,

Short version: got more gifts, finished a slick

Long version: I received two more packages from Galootaclaus yesterday,
one a very fine old machete that fits my hand perfectly and actually
swishes when you swing it, the other a very cool Millers Falls carving
set in a nifty plastic box that opens as a stand. It includes a tiny
slipstone. Here's a picture:

Galoot Image Central

The puddytat didn't want to move out of the studio so I made him smile,
meet Bo, everyone :>

Thank you Galootaclaus, thanks very much!

In the same mail I received the St. Roy DVD that Michael made for a
bunch of us Royless Galoots. I spent a happy afternoon watching Roy
FOR THE FIRST TIME, he sure is something. Thanks so much Michael,
you're a king!

I finally finished the slick I made, it's about 3 feet long with a 2
1/2" blade that's about 8" long. The blade is a piece of leaf spring
with about a 20 degree edge. The ferrule is a 1 1/4" piece of copper
water pipe and there's a piece of hammered brass followed by a piece of
leather between the shoulders of the blade and the wood. The handle is
brown ash and I know how tough it is because I whacked it quite hard to
get the blade seated and it was totally unaffected. The whole thing
weighs about 4 pounds. Here's a picture:

Galoot Image Central

and a closer look here:

Galoot Image Central

The picture make the shoulders look slightly off, but they're not, it's
just the angle of the camera and the fact that the blade is bent at the
tang (5") in the traditional fashion.

Sharpening this baby has been a huge job since the steel is super hard
and I'm doing it by hand. I still have a bit to go and then I need to
make a blade guard.

Happy 2007 everyone!

Adriaan

"This is what you shall do: Love the earth and sun and the animals,
despise riches, give alms to every one that asks, stand up for the
stupid and crazy, devote your income and labor to others, hate tyrants,
argue not concerning God, have patience and indulgence toward the
people, take off your hat to nothing known or unknown or to any man or
number of men, go freely with powerful uneducated persons and with the
young and with the mothers of families, read these leaves in the open
air every season of every year of your life, re-examine all you have
been told at school or church or in any book, dismiss whatever insults
your own soul; and your very flesh shall be a great poem and have the
richest fluency not only in its words but in the silent lines of its
lips and face and between the lashes of your eyes and in every motion
and joint of your body." - Preface to Leaves of Grass - Walt Whitman

You can see what I'm dealing
with by flipping through my snapshots here:

Flickr: Photos from coalandice

Forgot to add the link
to this one:

Gibbins Aprons

Darned expensive
but nice pattern and weight

It never occured to me to wear one
till the guys I practice with on the
weekends mentioned it. I showed
up the next week with my favorite,
but they didn't think the Bar B Q stains
were in the right spirit.

Very nice detailed pics
glad you posted them

I have a Cannedy Otto 00
that the previous owners father
adapted to use as a lathe, like yours,
lying on it's back.

Now I've got it and sure would like to use
it vertically, but he tapped the original chuck
out to 3/4x16. Jacobs makes a chuck tapped
to take a stud that size, but they want
in excess of $100 for it retail. I do have
a nice Jacobs for up to half inch, but it's
tapped for 1/4x20. Any suggestions
on how to mate the two?

Thanks!

p.s. HOW do you get pictures to show up in a thread?

and good photo composition on the
2nd shot, near-far, etc

Oh...sorry I brought it up
I was reading the one thread
about hand forged hammers
and kept seeing "no need..."
and thought maybe the server
or whatever had taken a hit.
Just found out today they
had lost power in the northwest
for close to 3 days in some places

Hunh? Wuzzat mean?:confused:

Hi

Skipping to the bottom and posting before
reading all that has come before. Hope that's
okey. Here's what I am using:



I hope to clean it up someday but am not at
all in any hurry to do so. I read Charles McRavens
book and based on what he had to deal with
I don't feel too bad. I certainly am not about
to attempt anything until the quality & quantity
of my work is such that I can justify the expense
to "repair" it or get another one in better condition.

That said, how bad is it folks ? And since I have a
piece of 4150 - 5/8ths thick and 15" x 6" long do
I want to hang onto it (the 4150) and use that to
reface it? Thanks

BTW - how do you post images IN the text
of a message? I tried and it didn't work atal

Here's one fellas solution

BEST demonstration of
caloric content I do believe
I've ever seen!

W o W !
This is most exceedingly cool!
We all know they worked on huge honking
pieces like this, but to actually SEE it is something
else:

YouTube - Broadcast Yourself.

Beer.


Yeah, definately

Beer.

Be sure to click on the links

The Cursed Anvil of Holistic Forge Works on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Hope this helps
I have two portable forges...sort of
One is a Centaur Forge Truck Model B with electric blower
I got it used for $50.00 and while the firepot & tuyere are
worthwhile, the rest is, uh...anemic ? enough that I am glad
I did not pay full price for it. I had intended to use it as my
portable/demo unit but
1) can't count on electricity at demo sites
2) the electric blower is spot welded to the frame/stand
so I couldn't easily mount/dismount the electric motor
as part of the set-up/breakdown without modifying it
something I didn't have time for at the time of acquisition....
3) The tuyere port where you would afix the blower cannot be
aligned to the right or left - it sticks straight out at you or
180 degrees away from you as you stand at the forge
no way to orient it at 90 degrees. This complicates attaching
your portable blower

4) Bought a portable hand cranked blower and it came with a 400
whirlwind firepot & tuyere and all the fire brick I could haul away
Wound up making something like this, only bigger and the firepot
sits flush with the top

Building a Portable - Bellows Fed, Forge

pictures of mine here:

Implements of Destruction... on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

In short - get what you can. I would recommend one, but have
not been able to afford them since they seem to go sky high
at auction around here...