WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith

Check out the attachments on the Forge Supplies page of my web-site. You can find the url and other contact info on my Profile. The Ribbon Burner instructions were written by John Emmerling and he runs his Ribbon Burner off of NG. His instructions give some instruction about using NG. Let me know if I can help you. Wayne

None that show up well. I first ground the round billet to the shape of a hart, then with a narrow fuller incised an * both sides, then ground to a domed shape on both sides until the incised marks were gone. This left a * shape of alternating colors of copper and nickel.

I alternate quarters and nickels. Google US coin alloys. You will find that quarters have more copper than nickel. If you will alternate the layers you will get more contrast. I typically use $1.15 for a billet. 4 quarters and 3 nickels. I don't think that sounds to expensive. The wedding ring that I ware is made that way. I also make nice sized heart necklaces that way. Let me know if I can help you. Wayne

Check out the attachments on the Forge Supplies page of my web-site. You can find the url and other contact info on my profile. Don't forget that Glenn, the owner of IForgeIron.com is in West Virginia. Contact him and ask (beg) about an invitation to come visit. Let me know if I can help you. Wayne

chuyn, a forge and burner are quite simple and easy to build, you just need to study and follow the instructions. As Frosty has said to many times, " pick one design and stick to it. Do not look at a lot of different plans and then try to use parts from many. Let me know if I can help you. I prefer e-mail. Wayne

I notice that you did not put a baffle to help spread the gas across the plenum and thereby get more even gas distribution and a more even flame. Let me know if I can help you. Wayne

I would definitely not go larger than a 20# Propane tank. While a Ribbon Burner is a little more involved to build you will have much better heat distribution throughout the forge, better control of the atmosphere inside the forge, better temperature control and get better efficiency. The Ribbon Burner shown on my web-site does require a blower and electricity. Frosty has designed an atmospheric Ribbon Burner but because it does not have the blower, and thus not have the air/fuel control, it may not have the advantages of a blown burner except that it will have better heat distribution and I suspect better efficiency than a typical atmospheric burner. Let me know if I can help you. Wayne

Check with Alan Longmire, Jesus Hernandez and Denis McAdams on the www.BladesmithsForum.com. They all work together making blooms and refining them into steel for knives. I don't think that any of them are registered here on IFI.

One pint should be enough. See my profile. Let me know if I can help you. I prefer e-mails. Wayne Coe

I don't recommend using fire brick inside the forge because it is a heat sink. You will find that the problem with a gas forge is that it will work you to death. You won't burn metal and you don't have to tend the fire, You can put two or three pieces in to the forge and when you take one out to forge put another in. As opposed to a solid fuel forge you don't get a break to tend the fire or turn the crank. Let me know if I can help you. Wayne Coe.

I suggest that rather than using the pipe use a 20# Propane tank. The pipe will make a much heavier forge. The tank's ends wrap around and help protect the casting and ceramic blanket, not to mention just making an all around better looking forge. Sending people Off site removed Wayne Coe.

Check out the xxxxxxxxxxxx page of xxxxxxxxxxx. You can find the url and other contact info xxxxxxxxxxxxxx. Let me know if I can help you Wayne Coe Advertising removed

Or help you build yours.

I forgot to put in my reply that if you have had to do some grinding, such as having used the mig welder to join two pieces, you have a smooth non forged area. Heat it back up and drive the scale in to make the grinding disappear.

Link removed I know that you said that you did not want to build your own but it is quite easy to build a forge superior to what you can buy, and many of those you still have to cast the interior. That stainless steel will probably soon turn blue due to the heat. Let me know if I can help you. Wayne Coe

You were talking about cutting the end off for a door. just cut it down to about 12" long or get a 20# Propane tank. Putting more insolation in may make it smaller but it does not make it shorter. "

I collect it up then when I want a forged scale look to a piece I sprinkle the scale on the piece and drive it in. It is harder than the hot iron so leaves an impression. Try it. I have just read this again and it does not translate well. Just try it and see the results. Let me know if I can help you Wayne Coe

That tank will make a forge that is way to large. Better to find an old 20# Propane tank or Freon bottle. A forge that is to large for the work you are doing will waste fuel, be more expensive to build and operate, cause excess scaling, decarbonation , grain growth. You can only forge about 6" in a heat anyway. Let me know if I can help you. Wayne Coe

Stay with an 1800 rpm motor if you get a KBAC drive. You can set the VFD to run double speed if you get an inverter designed motor. Let me know if I can help you.

Back when I used step pulleys I mounted the motor on a piece of plywood and then mounted the plywood to the base with a hinge. The weight of the motor supplied the tension. When you get a VFD you will be surprised how much quieter and smoother the grinder runs. Let me know if I can help you. Wayne

Even though you already have the forge you can learn about castable refractories and IR (infrared reflective) products and their application. Let me know if I can help you. Wayne

1. Wire the fan to a standard 115v power cord. 2. Go the Harbor Freight and buy a foot pedal . The have both on/off (press the pedal once to turn it on, then again to turn it off) and "Dead Man" type (press the pedal to turn it on, remove your foot to turn it off). Plug the power cord into the outlet on the back of the pedal switch then the pedal switch in to the outlet. Let me know if I can help you Wayne Coe

That is a horribly designed and built forge. I would just start over. 1. It does not appear to have any ceramic blanket. 2. There are much better burners available now. Check the attachments at the Forge Supplies page of my web-site and Frosty's T Burner. 3. The burner should enter at a tangent, near the top but so that the flame will follow the con\tor of the interior. 4. The floor should be flat but not with a fire brick in the interior (the fire brick is a heat sink and robs you of the heat you are paying for. Assuming that there is a regulator and hoses with what you have you should be able to build a superior forge by following the instructions found on the attachments on the Forge Supplies page of my web-site. You can find xxxxxx xxxxxxxxx. Let me know if I can help you. Wayne

At the time I just noticed them. One is in regular use at John C. Campbell Folk School and the other was at a friend's shop. He has now sold off all of his Blacksmithing equipment but it is probably still in the Atlanta Blacksmithing community. The one at JCCFS is the bigger of the two, and I didn't think you were interested in buying more. You might contact Paul Garrett, the resident blacksmith and ask him for some information about their shear and if he would send you pictures.