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I Forge Iron

Couchsachraga

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  1. Looking in to more IR specific safety glasses (my old ones were "safety sunglasses" and had some IR protection, but I couldn't track down what it was). I stuck with Uvex (same brand as my old ones) and found this fairly helpful page: http://www.coopersafety.com/lensguide.aspx I know it has been written several times on this site about not worrying much about UV, but my old New Edge of the Anvil textbook does warn about UV as well. Thankfully most safety glasses cover UV anyway. I ended up picking up 3 to complement what I already had, and plan on using my brazing glasses (Shade 5) when forge welding when I need to glance in and see how things are going. Otherwise I'll play around with the other varieties I picked up - so far I really like the SCT Gray lens (filters 85% of IR) as it actually seems to really bring the color out (though orange becomes red). For the curious I also picked up the SCT Low IR (covers 40% IR, seemed better than standard safety glasses for general work when rarely looking in the forge at all), and an Infra Dura 3 (the SCT Gray is supposedly similar to an Infra Dura 2).
  2. Thank you for the great help!! After my last post I realized those glasses are not labeled IR (at least that I can find online; the package may have been). I'm not in the habit of staring at hot stuff, but do need to look in at times; I may see if the glasses I have for my plasma cutter will do the trick (I know they are UV, not sure on the IR side yet). On the actually welding front I'll try some other stock I have - the ring was out of 3/8 stock, so I'll step up to something larger and practice there first. From your description I suspect the faces were not clean enough first (I brushed them off good, but they were not shiny metal; I'll try filing next). I may also try my LWS (Local Welding Supply). I've read a few other posts on knowing what sort of fire you have, i'm headed for yours next Frosty - Thanks for taking the time to respond to yet another newbie post:)
  3. I'll have to check my older safety glasses... the newer ones are IR too as I recall (one of the things I looked for was both...). I know another fellow, but he's not done much welding yet either. When summer gets here there will be folks around (much bigger community here in the summer as with many recreational areas). I will look for others though, as you are probably right. For "tuning", All I've done is block off the other door and made sure there is enough gas going in to be pushing some out. When cold I have some blue flame, when really going it is orange. I've heard folks weld with it, but being newer haven't messed with it much (one of my reasons for purchasing vs. building was to hopefully have something that would work so I could remove one more variable). I'll try brushing more next time - that may be in, as I've been wire brushing it, closing the pieces up, then a bit of reheat (as it's cool), THEN flux. With gas it doesn't get quite so hot necessarily, and the amount of heat is more easily controllable.
  4. Thank you for the encouragement:) I've been putting on my safety sunglasses (I made sure all my safety glasses are UV, but with forge welding it's pretty bright in there!). I'm wondering if maybe I"m not using enough flux (understanding that the borax needs to foam up to boil away the water in it, THEN turn to a syrup of sorts). That's one of the reasons I'm thinking of picking up some EZ Weld or something. NO not sunglasses, and UV isnt the issue read the posted thread before you go blind from retna burn
  5. I've been fortunately to have a local fellow show me a bit of blacksmithing before he headed south for the winter, and have had fun making an assortment of items since, mostly to have fun creating and work on my hammer skills. At this point I'd like to try a ring, and eventually an ax head... so it's time to attempt to learn to forge weld. I've tried a few times now with no success. I'm using a 2 burner Mighty Forge, one end blocked off (there is one "door" on each end). I'm turning down the heat a little, opening the BIG door, and once the door is open getting the item to the anvil in under 2 seconds. The first time I tried i attempted to weld mild steel to itself, no flux, in a ring shape (upset each end, then made the ring (or oval in my case) so the ends overlapped, and did a slight scarf to them as well (yes, I've been watching Rowan Taylor YouTube videos...). Not quite hot enough, so I tried again... no go. Then I got some borax, and tried again, MUCH hotter (15psi vs 10), tried tapping lightly to set it, reflux and reheat, a bit more tapping, and repeat a few times, going from "tapping" to "Hammering" after a bit (I only fluxed 3 times probably). Still no go. Next up I tried a different piece of steel (folded over). Let it get really hot for a while (10 min) before trying to weld, and again after "setting" it. Some sparks this time (or at least yellow hot scale coming off). This is an old spring, ground down to clean steel before I started, and using borax. Still no go. I know what I REALLY need is someone to show me or point out what I'm doing wrong in person. But right now I don't have that, so I'll keep playing for a month or two until he returns. I'm wondering about trying EZ Weld (or something similar), but I'm also curious / eager for any thoughts any of you might have. Thank you in advance for any guidance.
  6. There were almost a dozen (various sizes) to choose from, others "looked" a bit better. I selected this one given the lively hammer rebound and highest ball bearing rebound (vs others there). With the little I know I'm pleased with how it works, but as I mentioned I enjoy knowing the history behind my tools (when possible) as well. Thank you all for your help!
  7. SReynolds - thank you for the tip - I'd figured no serial numbers that old. A bit of wire brushing and on the foot to the left of the makers mark / weight I did find something (or at least choose to believe I did), and with a little scrubbing choose to believe I can make out a few characters: 8 E 2 2 0 (there may be others in there as well, and I have no idea if this "number" even makes sense, as I don't know what Mouse Hole used) I'm hoping "Santa" may be bringing the Mousehole book;)
  8. I did catch that over on anvil fire, but I've also noted some folks here are far better it seeing the bits and pieces that remain than I am. If I had go guess (and it would be a guess) I'd have to assume a fairly early one (1780-1795), as all I can see are "Mouse Hole" on two lines. I've been assuming pre-1830 or so due to no pritchel hole. I'm curious if anyone sees anything else, and if anyone else out there has "Mouse Hole" and the weight on the "wrong" side of the anvil. Perhaps it was made for a left-handed smith (horn facing the other direction?)
  9. And for the new images... All I can make out is "Mouse Hole" (two lines) and of course the weight, but perhaps some of you may see more (hence a few different images). Flour didn't work too well, but diffuse light seemed to. A few images of the "feet" as well. Thank you! Fun to have an idea where/ what age tools came from:)
  10. Now I'm more confused, but that's OK;) I spent some time with a wire brush this evening getting more of the old paint off (with safety glasses and mask)... and what should appear? Well, I can clearly make out "MOUSE", and can believe the next line is "HOLE" (the E is clear at least). I'll try and post images later if I can get the flour trick to help. Why am I confused? The weight (that does have "." between the numbers) and the logo are on what I understand to be the "wrong" side of the anvil (that is, when reading the logo the horn is on the LEFT). From my last post until now I've had fun making a few Christmas presents (another fire rake and a hand garden rake).
  11. I have yet to find a date stamp, or anything on the face I'd expect to find it. I'll attach a close up of that side - next time I unchain it I'll try the flour trick again (though you can see there is still some there in spots) and post it up in case someone can make better sense of it than me:) Understanding that there were a lot of anvil makers back in the day, as I mentioned my "best guess" was Foster, and for two reasons which may or may not be good ones. 1) weight stamped on the opposite side you'd see a Mouse Hole stamped with the weight. I've read Foster did this, and it would make sense others did as well, but I've not read that anywhere (yet). 2) Pitting on the side where I hoped to find the date - there are a few other threads of anvil ID with pitting that looks like punch marks, and they've all been Fosters. Conclusive? Absolutely not! But it keeps me looking and researching, which is fun. Back to the shop for this afternoon's project - campfire rake:)
  12. Greetings! I've been lurking here for a while trying to learn all I can while a local fellow was teaching me the basics at his shop. He's headed south for the winter, and I've been bitten by the "bug" enough I'm setting up a basic shop. Since I'm just starting out I didn't want to pay $$ for a "lifetime" anvil, but wanted a good serviceable anvil. Anvils seem tougher and tougher to find for "reasonable" prices in the northeast US from what other folks have told me (vs a few years ago), but a trip to VT and I came back with a bit of extra weight in the truck! It had the best rebound of the bunch I looked at (75% or so with the ball bearing test), and felt the best with a hammer as well (there was another, likely newer anvil there with about the same rebound with a bearing, but the hammer wasn't as lively). Anyway, I've attempted to attach a few images. I'll state what I figure so far, and I'm hoping folks here can help correct me - I'm just learning, and enjoy the history of some of the tools as well as working in the shop. So - 1 1 2 on the "wrong" side of the anvil (on the side with the horn facing to the LEFT, not right), hardy hole but no pritchel - my best guess so far as a William Foster pre 1830 that when new was around 142 lbs. Forging hole (square) in the base as well as under the horn and heel. I tried the flour trick as well as a rubbing with tracing paper, but nothing has jumped out at me in the least on the side of the anvil with the horn to the right. Thank you in advance for any ideas / thoughts, and again my thanks to all for the great community that seems to exist here!
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