VainEnd84

I've been tossing the idea for a no weld NARB, and wanted to get some feed back from the community about this idea. I'm going to attempt building it but I'm not certain if the idea will work. All input is welcome! My plan thus far is to use a standard 3/4" Frosty T burner but use a 3/4" x 3" reducer to afix the noslette to the mixing tube. I'm guessing that gas leaks my be an issue so I was thinking of brazing the reducer to the mixing tube. I was also thinking of using a noslette pattern similar to that used by stockmaker. I know that both stockmaker and Frosty have the mixing tube mounted perpendicular to the noslette array so I may use something like a 90degree street elbow between the reducer and the mixing tube, if the inline mounting doesn't work. Again any input is most welcome!

Or you can just go to the pin near the top of this section of IFI @Twhitson15 the t-burner really is one of the simplest designs and it works really well. But there is no one best burner, it really depends on the type of forge you are going to build and what you want it to do. You are going to have to do some research and figure out your forge design and needs first, this will lead you to what style of burner is going to work for you.

@Frog8fly I have never seen a setup like that for propane so I can't say if it is necessary or not. I just had a thought, are you sure it is propane and not propeline? Propane is fairly dangerous and not knowing your local regulations regarding propane I can't give a specific answer, you may want to find a local propane, hvac, or plumber that deals with propane and get some answers directly from them. All of that being said you usually do not want to run more than one regulator off of a gas system unless it is a down line low pressure regulator, as stated previously, they can interfere with each other.

You get either an ACME or POL fitting (these connect to the propane tank valve) with the appropriate hose connector (probably 1/4" flare but it depends on the type of hose you have). All that being said, it looks as though your propane tank has a regulator built in to the valve, if that is the case then you may want to get a new propane tank.

Most of these questions have been answered in the "forges 101" pin, the "burners 101" pin, and the "T-burners" pin. I'm sure the more experienced members will chime in soon and say something to the effect of "there is no perfect forge especially when it is your first forge". That being said from what I have read, a vertical round forge will serve as a better all around forge for being able to do all three things you are talking about. A single well built 3/4" naturally aspirated burner should work well for a forge built from a 20 lb propane tank. When you say funds are tight what do you mean? There are cheaper options but you will still likely be looking at spending at least $200 on building a forge unless you are very patient and willing to look around and hunt for scraps. Hope this helps. Also if you add your location to your profile you may be surprised at how many members are near you.

This really is the best solution. A bigger tank also works well, but the increased surface area:volume ration of, for example, 3 twenty lb tanks vs 1 sixty lb tank makes it less likely that the multiple tanks will freeze up compared to a single tank despite the overall volume being the same.

These work but are against code in many areas. So check with local regulations.

I'm sure this has been posted before but I haven't seen it so just thought I would share. I came across an online version of the Machinery's Handbook, specifically the portion about heat treating and it is an awesome resource! I don't think this goes against any IFI rules, if it does sorry in advance and admins feel free to remove. http://www.zianet.com/ebear/metal/heattreat0.html

Could you post some pictures and perhaps a video of your set up running? Will help folks her to diagnose the potential issues.

Oh, well now I feel kind of silly, but onwards and upwards! I will correct my error with the new parts. I haven't plugged the burners into my brick pile forge yet but will hopefully get there sometime this week, and it's supposed to warm up next weekend so I may actually be able to build my proper forge!

I must have misread the directions, I thought the openings on the T needed to be double the inside diameter of the mixing tube. I have, however, found a local source for reducing T's in many different sizes so I won't have to use a reducing bushing which should make tuning them easier. Yes I will be using them in a forge. Once it's not -30c and I can work in my unheated shop comfortably, I will actually be able to build the darn thing.

I've finally found the time to build the second burner that I will be using in my forge, It needs a little tuning but they seem to be running well. Now I just need it to warm up enough here so I can finally build my forge. Here is a video of the two burner setup. https://youtu.be/ZgAjNPoO6r4

My understanding is that the temperature rating is the average temperature the fire brick can withstand before it starts to oxidize or thermally decompose. Also the exterior of the brick will reach a higher temperature. A double layer may solve the second issue but not the first. Hope that helps!

Hi Mitch, I would suggest doing a google search for propane suppliers or natural gas suppliers, even hvac and plumbing suppliers in your local area, I'm sure there are more than a few. Give them a call and give them a rough idea what you are looking for. The staff at those types of shops are infinitely more helpful and will know more than most staff at big box stores.

First of all welcome! Second there are two pins that you should read through, Burners 101 and Forges 101 yes it will take a few hours but it is well worth it, bring a note pad and take notes. You can also go to wayne coe's website, he has lots of info on forge making. Folks here won't spoon feed you the info, they will however answer questions when it seems that you have done your homework first.

The stock likely won't be more than 4" long, and it will be a while before I start using anything that big. I have looked at the plans on Wayne's website and I've been having trouble sourcing material for a body that size, also my work space is limited which is why I'm going for a small forge, I just wanted something a step up from my two brick forge, and something that would be relatively cheap to build, I'm considering this a learning project so that when I do get a larger shop and materials for a larger forge I will know more what I am doing. And I do have someone enthralled to be a striker for me, at least until I get a bigger shop and can build a treadle hammer, thanks very much for the info!

I am working on making my forge, I don't have any pictures currently but I will be posting some along with video of it running im the not too distant future, but I have some questions about the internal volume and how the performance will be effected when the stock is in the forge, the internal space is 5.75" diameter x 10" length giving me a volume of about 250 cubic inches. I was planning on running two 1/2 Frosty T burners in it but I am now wondering if 1.5" stock (likely the largest I will end up using) will reduce the internal volume too much and cause the back pressure to become too great for the forge to work properly. So I guess my question is if I run two 1/2" T burners will I run into back pressure issues? If it will be an issue would a single 1/2" T burner be enough to heat the forge? Any help is much appreciated.

... I don't know about you Frosty but my methane comes out quite highly pressurized That being said, building a T burner isn't overly difficult, and they work very well! But I do love making stuff so the sense of accomplishment is always a bonus to me.0

So this is my first ever attempt a building a burner of any kind, so I figured a Frosty T burner would be a good place to start, simple and effective, it seems to have worked out rather well. I couldnt source a reducing 1" - 1/2" T so I had to use a 1" - 1/2" bushing to connect the tube to the T. Everything else is pretty much exactly as described in The Frosty T burner topic. Comments and crisicisms welcome, especially if it helps me make an even better burner. Here is video of it running in the middle I increase the pressure from 3 - 20 psi then back down to about 5 psi.

I haven't read this whole topic though I will at some point, so if this has been posted previously I apologize. I was looking online at propane tanks and stumbled across this, I've seen similar on other sites but just thought I'd share. https://www.amazon.com/Powerblanket-PBL20-Cylinder-Propane-Charcoal/dp/B00PKKHC2Y Now before anyone says something about these being against code, I will state that in some parts of Canada certain styles of tank warmers are against code, so please check your local regulations. I haven't used one of these for this reason, though I would like to when it's -30c here.

Cheers Frosty, thanks for the reply! I'll stick with a reducing T then, though I might still play around with the cross and reducers as I have a few of them and don't really have any other use for them.

I was wondering what your guys thoughts would be on a very slight alteration to the frosty T burner construction. I was thinking of using a pipe cross and having a 1/2" mixing tube attach via bell reducer to one end and the accelerator attach to the opposite end via a reducing coupler. Would this work, I'm still new to making burners and am asking because I have access to some free crosses and reducers, but I don't want to blow my self up or anything. On a similar note, I was reading in the burners 101 thread that a smalle mig tip will be needed for the 1/2" diameter mixing tube, would a .021 aperture be sufficiently small? ( I've been trying to find the specific post on accelerator nosle diameters but I just can't find it again)

I'm not really into any specific type of blacksmithing yet, still just getting into it in general, though I really like the idea of making tools. I'm actually registered in Shawn's class at nait at the end of February, I'm very excited!

I joined IFI, a little while ago and just came across this so here I am, introducing my self! I'm from Edmonton, Alberta, Canada. I just recently got into blacksmithing. I'm running a small two brick forge which seems to be working well for me so far, though I am in the process of designing and building a larger forge with 2, 1/2" frosty T burners. Just trying to source some rigidizer and ITC-100, already have the ceramic blanket and some steel casing for the body.