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I Forge Iron

Rich Hale

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Everything posted by Rich Hale

  1. Looked the pics over once again,,wot i thought was the guard was the spine of the blade across that anvil...But I stick with my thought that an anvil would make bulky sord blade... !
  2. Not a lot to add here..but i would like to ask if the sord pic you showed is one of yours,,and also the mace?....Now about the forge...If you are forging a long blade and heat it the full length each and ever time you heat it to forging temps. .You will only be able to forge a small section at a time as the rest will drop below forging heat levels.Heating the parts of the blade yooui cannot work will cause a large loss of metal due to scale..and likele leave pits that will take forever to remove when finishing the blade. If you read deep into the forums here you may find threads that talk about a ground forge for heat treating long blades. If the sord is one you made you are off to a good start. If not It is REAlly a good plan to begin with short blades and get the forging,,heat treat,,fit and finish all down really well..then add lengh before you get into the realities of how making a sord is so much more complicated. than a knife. I have been making knivees since the ark landed and am no way near reaady to try one... I have only touched on learning about sord harmonics...if I do step up it will take a lot of shop time to work that out. Keep us posted of progress.
  3. The guard is too thin and the blade is too bulky. Does the steel have enough carbon to heat treat?
  4. Let us not omit the user from this exploration. A given weight of anvil and hammer used by different smiths may be more or less efficient...But that only sorts out the smith wanna be's.....and they may be smiths of the future.
  5. The government is sending money to the states that are gettin froze,,,,,,to help cover costs of lpg,,,this cannot come as a surprise that the price is up.
  6. A quick stroke of a good file will tell you if it is soft enouigh to drill/tap. If the file skates and does not cut it is not soft enough to drill/tap. Not to dissapoint you but I and others have posted a lot about how to anneal. I am not likely to tyll again,,may want to look the the blade heat terating threads,,just covered recently...There is also a heat treating section stickies for you if you wish. If any of that information comes up short or you need help with it,,copy/paste that part in here and I for one will do wotever I can.
  7. Basher I have a third tool in addition to my hands for grinding...a pot belly is a wonderful place to rest both of them.
  8. Great knives Mike...if you wouid like some thoughts send me a message...
  9. Actually my issue that pushed me to create this thread is not about the new folks that ask the same question that may have been asked and answered well in the last hour,,,and many times over the year . A troll to me is one that will enter a site such as this,,,,read a bit to ask a question that is sure to provoke at least a small amount of controversy then sit back and giggle..or wotever it is that they do. They are not asking this due to laziness or ignorence...Why they do I cannot guess.. However this thread has been a good read.....
  10. Just like the Kennedy murder. We remember where we were and who we were with.
  11. Glenn there is a perhaps devastating decline in numbers of naugas,,,best to leave them be...
  12. You know that some metals turn skin green when in contact?
  13. Rich Hale

    bolster

    Samcro I don't suppose you noticed that I posted an answer that I felt would not only help him but may be of value for others reading this thread. I did not give the answer you posted above.
  14. Ats 34, 154 cpm and 440C are air quenched steels. 440C can also be quenched in warm oil. All of these steels will do fine for a filet knife. however if you research how to heat treat them you will find a rather narrow heat range they need before quench. Not likely you will do that in a home forge. i send all of mine out to professionals..the whole process when they begin takes 24 hours. That includes two cryo quench cycles and if I remember correctly they are two hours long each. Did someone mention 1095?
  15. Rich Hale

    bolster

    I think the correct way for anyone is a way they can do and the end result is wot they wanted. No one that poses a question on here is obliged to use any of the methods posted as replies. . Just as no one that posts on here has to have a certain skill set level. I believe in a core value...it is their shop and they make the rules. If they do not wish to do anything I suggest It is their right. I also see in here that in addition to the OP,,there are a lot of others that read these threads and hope that wot is posted will be of value to them.
  16. Or before each use you can put the end in the fire til it gets a bit red...will kill anything on it...wipe with cooking oil after use....Repeat each time!
  17. Soak times in the charrts..if we know wot the steel is..are usually based on one inch think stock. This small diameter rod will not need to stay at temp long at all. A magnet will tell proper temp..that sucks heat out of the steel,,put it back in heat until it is same color as first time and then straight into the ashes..I prefer vermiculite but dry ashes should work...if they have been in high humidty area they may quench,,,and then they would not act like dry ashes.
  18. Your steel is hardened...It must be annealed.....trying wot did not work is not likely to change anything. small diameter..and I expect short will not lose its heat slowly like i needs to. Thomas gave you a reat tip..put something in to hold heat.. for instance if you run your hand down into the ashes carefully after 8 hours and you cannot feel heat as you get near the metal,,it cooled too fast... On an edge a file will cut right through any scale and then into the metal,,,if not steel has not been annealed. A carbide bur that dulls fast is a piece of garbage..I have used some of my burs for decades for all kinds of steels and they cut fine...they were not cheap.
  19. Rich - I always welcome your responses, but when you said it was too fast I thought I was missing something . 'The fpi speed of the blade is too fast for steel." :)
  20. ...find out wot other brand name bandsaws made for steel cutting set for fps. From above....
  21. I would research the fpi speed of bandsaws for steel and then contact the maker of this and see wot the slowest it will run. That was in my response also.
  22. I did not say it was too fast...find out wot other brand name bandsaws made for steel cutting set for fps. When I got my saw Iknew that...but after a decade those numbers have been replaced by something..likely real important stuff.
  23. Farrier supply places sell Forschners hoof packing in a tub...I have a hole in anvil stump and keep it in there...a quick push into it while steel is back in forge is easy and works.
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