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I Forge Iron

Rich Hale

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Everything posted by Rich Hale

  1. Another thouight..is there a chance you are holding the bar in the middle with tongs while you stick one end in vise?
  2. Simple; if it is mild steel heat the bar really well and dip each end into the slack tub..twist the bar and it will be ,,like said above moved in the place it is hot. Do a practice run before the heat to get the moves correct.
  3. Pn is comparitively soft and easy to work.
  4. i temper springs made from 1095 quite often. i use a torch and watch the colors. It is great you are shop testing your knives. I think you are close. Remember that it is not only color (temperature) that decides a temper it is also time at temperature. Think of when you see a chart or post that suggests a certain temp at one hour..and often..repeat that twice...That is quite different than running colors with a torch for less than a minute,
  5. Exsanguination may begin and end rapidly with the delivery of a well placed shot.
  6. These are a specialty item that when needed are really handy...If they are designed for the task at hand. If the lanyard that they hang from is attached to the knife itself it will be readily used for some folks with out removing it from the neck..Think about a fly fisherman or someone fishing from a float tube. If the lanyard is attatched to the sheath so the knife hangs upside down in it...well fitted of course. then a tug on the handle makes it a quick use knife Blade shape,,handle size and length should also be use dependant.. And we chould consider blade and handle materials as well. A carbon steel use in or around salt water may not fare well depending on care. And of course if someone is just making a knfe to make a knife..none of the guidelines need to apply.
  7. "Simply used to eviscerate" Really? :)
  8. Most regulators have a diaphragm inside and when those leak the lpg exits that hole...Does not look like it is made to be rebuilt..
  9. If youi have three of four buck antelope tags in that area i will find and deliver an anvil a month after youi leave... :(
  10. I drill hardened steel only rarely and for that I use carbide. Pricey and if youi do not use them right they break like glass...it takes a special wheel to sharpen them. My day to day drill bits I use i get from harbor freight on sale. I think they come in a pack of six,,,,cheap. I rarely sharpen one..it is not worth the time. I drill steels that have been annealed. That includes high carbon steels like 1084, 1095, L6, 15N20, and 0-1. Also a few high carbon stainless such as 154 CPM, 440C and ATS 34. The key to drilling is not only speed but feed as well. For instance: 154 CPM work hardens really fast. If I am drilling and let off on the downforce a little bit the bit is not drilling and heats the contact area enough to harden it...that bit will not get through the hard spot. I can finish the hole with a carbide bit..I use twist carbide and not spade. One issue I have with the HF bits is they are not sized correctly..The 3/32" bits are always undersized..so i use drills from other big box stores when needed. There are charts for the speed you need for every size bit. I have not seen charts for down force needed. Anneal that piece and then step through the heat process.
  11. Reschedule rain and winter for a wednesday..so they do not mess with a weekend....jus sayin!
  12. If anything in the knfe making lessons raises a question we will be glad to help you clear it up...
  13. You are raising the bar!
  14. You are not likely going to learn fire management..or most smithing things from one fire..Stay in the shop and work through it...
  15. Great..I think they found the right guy...
  16. Remember the burn unit at Couinty Hospital at 24 St and Roosevelt is one of the tops in the country.....
  17. Give it a go and take pics...post results
  18. Actually those hammers are quite easy to move ....They loaded my 50 with a back hoe..when i got it home I fouind a company that had one of the old style car and light truck wreckers..has the boom on the back..can lift 10,000 lbs fully extended. And then after putting it in place he wanted to charge me twenty bucks!...we renegotiated it to double that.
  19. With the strikers swinging like they are it is no wonder they seem to tire...Poor form .
  20. +Projectiles made from steel would likely cause two major issues...one they would not allow the impression of the steel rifling to push into the slug....and of course the wear on the barrel would be horrible..Finely surface of similiar materials tend to gall in heavy use...
  21. When you forge the welded up piece after to smooth things out..you will need to get it pretty hot...when you do that if you reach forge welding temps there will be carbon migration that will make the same amount of carbon throughout the piece...Youi can do a rouigh guess of the final carbon content simply by knowing the percentages of each kind of metal and the carbon content of each..the weld will start at less than 2 pts..and a rough guess will be that it will consist of over half the total steel..so if you use, lets guess 1084 at roughly 9 pts. 11 divided by 2 will be 5 1/2 pts....05 C To me that is on the low end of wot it takes for a blade...If youi are using a steel for the blade with less than 9 pts. Then the total will be less... For me when a bad thing happens to a blade I have learned to toss it and start over to assure a outcome I wish. Let us know how it works ouit.
  22. Then I have to suspect you have not forged on a well made farriers anvil..they can indeed work well as a general smithing anvil..with the issue mentioned above that they are not designed to forge stock larger than used for horseshoes. And in my experience that can be as large as 1 1/4: wide by 1/2" thick. And I have worked as a striker and smith on forging shoes from that sized stock...I did not have an issue with the 125 lb farriers anvil being springy....It would not have been my first choice for that work but it did just fine. W Wot size stock and wot size anvil were you working with at the times(s) you had the springy issue?
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