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I Forge Iron


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    New Boston, TX

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  1. I've also been planning a side draft hood for my forge, having changed my mind from an overhead. My only question would be direct wind into the hood. My layout places the hood going out the north wall, but I'm worried about south bound winds. Any suggestions?
  2. Last thing I need is to be pounding steel and my wife's chalking up for deadlifts and hammer-curls. Lmao!! Although...that might be a good idea so she can endlessly swing the sledge on a damascus billet.
  3. Thanks yall. The bolster plate would greatly suit the need. Was thinking of a spring fuller idea with the punch on top and a nut on bottom, but I might be getting ahead of myself.
  4. HoobaJibbs

    Pinning tongs

    So I'm having a bit of trouble and not sure if it has been addressed, but pinning tongs isn't quite working out as well as I think it should. I've made a few pair, but after those 3, I just haven't been able to get it right. The trouble I'm having is as I punch the hole, the boss caves into the pritchet and it may crack. I don't beat too thin but it still may be. Thickness suggestions? I read about using a nut underneath the boss as I punch. Using 1/2 in rebar, heating to a orange/yellow, moving it down to just over 1/4 inch.
  5. Sorry yall, I do appreciate the welcome and thank yous, i forgot i posted this lol! I prefer to forge using wood charcoal. Was going to go gas forge but I like the aesthetic of using charcoal. I already learned and applied a lot from what I've read from here. Thanks again and be safe!
  6. Love this topic, since I was thinking about this yesterday...having just started smithing (about 1-2 months ago) I haven't used anything but store bought wood charcoal, and was second guessing my choice of solid fuel. This info finally put me at ease. I will say that in reference to the shop vac bellows, I use a hair dryer. It's like a travel version, but it has a 'cool shot' button I zip-tied down, which dramatically slows air flow from the low setting...and it can still melt (thinner) steel if Im not watching (lesson learned). Keeping some stand by charcoal in water helps with the flame spreading to any surrounding coal, and just keeping the fire in the pot.
  7. Yeeeaahhh...not that deep at all. I'll have to grab some fire brick or make some refractory cement to make the melon size. Now that it's brought to my attention, im setting the steel too deep...probably because my forge isn't that big. (Yay trial and error!!) I've read that keeping the steel off the anvil until you "Thor" helps keep it hot longer too. Thanks for the replies.
  8. So I'm working with a coal forge and I use the cowboy hardwood charcoal. Anyone have pro/con input or other advice about coal? I've noticed a lot of scale form while im forging, and as I work the steel, the heat dissipates fairly quick, way faster than most videos I've watched and pages I've read. I've been thinking about making a gas forge, should I just go with that?
  9. I'm from WI and live in TX. I'm in a law enforcement career and took up smithing as a hobby among many others. Bladesmithing is a passion and I love the work that goes into making them. Fairly new to it all since I've been at it for about a month, but I'm already learning so much.
  10. Wondering if I'm even qualified to answer... I beat on a 8 inch long piece of track mounted (a bunch of deck screws around the "foot" and some chain) to a small work table I made. I notice that after sanding the top with 120gr grinder sanding wheel, I can push steel a lot faster and easier than what I had the first couple days. I also rub a little olive oil on the surface to keep rust at bay in humid TX every now and then (probably a sin). Looking at your setup, I'm already jealous. I will say that the RR track is soft-ish, so I'm careful with swinging the hammer full force. I plan to to get an old 100lb (actual) anvil soon, since that's just what I would be personally be satisfied with.
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