Xamm940

Ok so Frosty what I hear you saying is that we should remove the gas tape that we used here and replace it with Pipe Dope? Is there really a risk with the gas tape? I know the pictures make the tape look white but this is the correct yellow gas tape that we are using. We have done a fair bit of research and we chose this specific burner because it looked simple enough to use on our first go. I will talk with my buddy about the prospect of using pipe dope on our threads. Thanks for the heads up btw. I realize babysitting people that may not know what they are doing isn't always the funnest job especially if all of the subject matter is covered in the very same place in clear text.

Thanks for the advice! The quick disconnect fitting is a hydraulic fitting and same goes for the needle valve. The guy doing the building is the one who does most of the speaking with people about the parts that are used I can ask him some questions regarding some of these things. The fitting you mention is a high pressure fitting I think it was rated at 600 psi when I looked it up. I did not take a picture of the regulator we are using on the propane tank I can get that and post it here. Thanks again for all the advice.

Would something like t 36 Refractory cement work for coating the inside? Anyone had any experience using this product? We are planning on doing some kind of coating we just happen to have the T 36 available.

Hi all, a friend of mine and I have been working on a forge together (I call myself the moral support as he has done most of the work) we came up with a design with the materials we had available. The following pictures show the point of where we are at in that build. We chose to build the burner from a Youtube video called "How to build a propane forge burner" by David Hammer. It works pretty good (we think) We get a pretty good flame. We do notice that you can't have the psi to high or it just blows out so with a little fiddling we found a good spot. Here are some photos of the actual burner build. Next up is a picture of the collar for the burner to go into the forge We just wanted to get a feel for what the experienced community had to say before we continued with the testing. All of these tests were conducted in well ventilated areas.

The Kohlswa weights 105 the lighting in my garage is pretty dim so in my coming days of i wana clean em all up and look for markings and document them. A buddy of mine and myself will soon be working on some forges. Turns out a guy across the street is into the same stuff and has access to most of the forge parts from his job so Hopefully by Christmas we will be flattening some Iron as thats all im currently capable of! haha

Yeah Each! total spent 600 bucks for the 2 anvils and one vise.

Well guys I ended up picking up both! I forgot my ballbearing at home so luckily I had a hammer in the back of my car. Both had pretty good rebound. I think i was doing something wrong with the hammer because when i got them home with the ballbearing man really nice rebound. The Unknown turns out its a Peter wright 148 lbs anvil. I had a real nice tour of the guys farm and he basically said everything is for sale! So i saw a real nice old Reed Vice that i picked up for 50 bucks weighs almost as much as the anvil! Also side note both anvils were 250 dollars. This is Canadian keep in mind and they tend to go for more up here I guess because they are so rare. I figure i got some good deals today.

Ahhh yeah I see what you mean now. Thanks guys!

Thanks! Yeah with the many people becoming interested in using their hands more these days, having access to more than one anvil will help out my friends. Im sure they will fall in love with hitting hot metal as I have. So I figured i would pick them both up in 1 swing if they happened to both be good anvils. Thanks for the clarification on the Soderfors comment. And thanks for the advice.

Thanks for the clarification. I will take some pictures of them after i pick them up just so you guys can see them.

So the underside would be in an hour glass shape if it was an early Trenton anvil? What is a Late caplet. I tried doing a search on it and couldn't find reference to it.

Hey guys thanks a lot for the responses! I will give them both the ballbearing test when i get to meet em. Ill be driving out this Saturday both of them are in the same general area from me. 2 hour drive but there isn't much else available if you look within the city. I just managed to pick up a ballbearing from a buddy a few days ago that should suit the task fine. So for the unknown if I flip it over what sort of indentation should I be looking for? Also what makes you think the unknown is a Soderfors? The way it looks?

So I have been browsing the forums for some time now trying to get a feel for a good anvil. So i put out some feelers in my local area and as they say when it rains it pours! I have the opportunity to purchase 2 anvils. The first one being a swedish anvil made by Kohlswa, and the second is an unknown. I was just wondering if i could get some more experienced opinions on the 2 anvils of which there will be files attached for your viewing. The Kohlswa looks like it has some white discoloration. Could this simply be rust over time or is that white area indicative of a larger issue? The second anvil looks to have a little or a lot of wear on the top as it doesn't look straight. Is this a large detriment to the quality of the anvil?