BlackMetalViking

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Posts posted by BlackMetalViking


  1. On 3/5/2016 at 1:55 PM, Frosty said:

    They taper from the hammer head to the end, the knob on the end was my thought to prevent a hammer from slipping out of my grip. It's not uncommon to throw your hammer accidentally.

    I do a similar thing with my hammers. I have degenerative arthritis so some days grip strength can be an issue. I wrap the handle in hockey tape, this gives me a rough surface to grip, and as you would with a hockey stick, I make a knob on the end. I find the knob also gives me a larger area to grip on bad hand days. It's like holding a ball with a hammer attached to it, which on certain applications, increases my ability to do a hinge motion, thus increasing my overall power.IMG_3523.JPG


  2. Andy,

    I have found that a lot of the materials can be found at RONA in the plumbing section. The only thing I couldn't find there was the Flare x MPT fitting. I even found small rolls of a KAOWOOL equivalent, and a castable refractory good to 2600F, all resonably priced. Alternatively, in Mississauga, there is a Green Line Industrial Hose and Fitting store, they will have EVERYTHING you'll need for your burners(except mig tips and tools), check out their website greenlinehose.com. 

    Viking  


  3. You'd hate it up here! I'd say it feels swampy at around 65-70%. We've had a few days of rain and are sitting at about 43%, I would venture to say we bottom out in the high twenties percentile. I think we hit 34C (93F) once so far this year, and that was in early mid may. That's about the ceiling for our heat. But a few hours west into BC and it gets hotter. I was in the Kamloops area once when I was a kid I think it hit around 48C (113F) at maybe 10-20%. That's probably the hottest and driest I've experienced. Although, I did take a trip to Florida in August once, that was a totally different experience of heat. 


  4. I have only ever seen one on TV or online, Mythbusters did a couple of these. I hate being covered in sawdust, so if I do any wood work, I do as much as I can at once. I like to make sure I have a few days in between my wood days and metal days, for that exact reason.


  5. For now, I only run it in my garage with both doors open and a small fan on the floor(I am working on plans to build a separate shop shed, for a solid fuel, and my gasies).

    There aren't many things that scare me when it comes to using tools or working in a shop, but working with explosive gasses is definitely one that I am always cautious with. I have a very active imagination, and a very sharp memory, I remember every shop video, story, or example of when things go wrong. It can get pretty graphic in my head, so I have nothing but respect for the danger that may present itself, I'm always thinking about worst case. (I'm a bit safety paranoid due to my OCD, anxiety, and the previously stated imagination)

    I've had experience with a floor on fire from propane, my friend tested his potato cannon(turns out he doesn't know how to make a potato cannon). Fortunately I always have blankets/oil free rags and a fire extinguisher hand. This one wasn't at all bad, it burned itself out in about two seconds, but I did tell him to test his contraptions at his own house from now on. Plus side, I didn't have to sweep up any dog hair that week.

    Viking 


  6. Thanks for all the great advice! As I said in the first post, I have bigger plans for the future and I will definitely be taking all this info with me to the drawing board! I'm just happy to be heating metal more efficiently, before the coffee can I'd just heat a half inch at a time with a pencil flame torch, needless to say, I'm cruising now! But now I'm really looking forward to the next one! 

    Thomas; I don't have it hooked up remotely at the moment, I'm just using up a bottle of camping propane while I begin work on my next forge, which will have dedicated burners and a regulator set up. 

    Thanks again all!

    Viking


  7. Here are a couple pictures of the improvements I made, including the new torch. It works perfect for arrowheads (that's what is in the forge). I'm sure I can pound out a couple knives with the thing, but I think I'll need an upgrade very soon for that.

    IMG_3504.JPGIMG_3508.JPG

    On 6/30/2016 at 6:12 PM, Frosty said:

     

    I really like stainless steel stove pipe for cylindrical forge shells but that's a long post. ;)

     

    I'd be interested to hear some more on this Frosty, if its not too much trouble. I'm always looking for a better way to do something!   

     


  8. Thanks Frosty! I've already made a couple of improvements which have made a huge difference. I bought a new torch that fits very snug into the pipe nipple, which itself has been significantly shortened, I just use it as a mount now. I'll post a couple more pictures with the improvements. I can say that its functionality has improved tenfold. 

    Viking

     


  9. Here is a picture of the air tank I will be using for my forge. As well as the Coffee can forge I slapped together this week to keep me occupied while I build the big one. I am already thinking of upgrading to a better designed little knife maker with dedicated burners, any thoughts on using a spent fire extinguisher as a body? 

    IMG_3460.JPG

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    IMG_3459.JPG

    IMG_3458.JPG


  10. Thanks for the help Frosty!

    I have seen a couple pictures of your forge once, but I haven't been able to track down the thread I saw it in.

    Its funny you mention a telescoping shelf, I had the exact same idea, with the only exception being, I didn't think to use sq. tubing, that would definitely make the welding easier.

    I have a bunch of 1/4" copper tubing lying around so I might as well use it for my connections. 

    My pops is checking his suppliers for a ceramic blanket and I just need to put together a parts list for him for the burners. So hopefully soon I should have some major progress done (mind you, my girlfriend just moved in this weekend, so I have a feeling my shop time will be quite limited). I'll post some pics as I go. 

    Viking

     


  11. I like the simplicity of the side arm burner, but I am still considering other designs. I have access to a drill press and vice, so I have also been strongly considering your T Burner design. I am right there with you on the fuel connections, I've already started looking at another way to hook it all up (I read in an earlier post of yours discussing the benefits of copper tubing over rubber, makes perfect sense to me). I also don't like how precarious it looks, I know he said to add a stabilizing arm but I see a huge potential for the whole thing to roll.

    My tank is considerably smaller, I didn't have the exact measurements the other day so I guessed it at 18" deep, but it was 14", which will make my final volume (before the kiln shelf) at 395 cu.in. As for the size of the opening, I was tossing around the idea of welding a piece of angle iron to the front as a work rest, but also so I can use some fire bricks to adjust the size of the opening. I was thinking of hinging the front end as well, to make it easier to repair/replace the refractory. 

    Viking


  12. 31 minutes ago, Frosty said:

    If you get them tuned right two should be enough and the kiln shelf will reduce the volume so you should be okay.

    Here's a thought for you. If you cut the burner holes large enough to accept 1" burners you can reduce the size to accept the 3/4" burners with the burner mounts themselves.

    I'm not crazy about fitting two different size burners in one chamber but it's been done and worked. However you can turn a well tuned burner down to less than half it's max output so if you can't get your target temps with two 3/4" burners you can make two 1" burners for maybe another $30-$40 and fore sure get enough heat. Plus you'll have two spare 3/4" burners on the shelf.

    Frosty The Lucky.

    Thanks again Frosty! I'll do some figuring and see what I can come up with. I've learned more in the few days puttering around on here than I have in the past year trying to figure this stuff out. I'm glad I stumbled upon this forum.  

    Viking.


  13. Thanks Frosty! I'm learning very fast just how much BS is out there. I've decided on the Creel design Air tank forge with some comfort mods(work rest, hinged door, etc.).

    I also had a completely dumb ass moment when I finally realized that my father is a heating and plumbing contractor and can get me anything I need. 

    Viking


  14. Frosty, the forge I'm making will have a finished volume(not including the kiln shelf) just a touch over 700 cu.in, 704 to be exact. I'd really like to stay with a 3/4" T Burner, my question is; going off your numbers do you think two would be sufficient, or would a third be beneficial? I figured with the shelf in there it might take up some more space, but I just wanted to ask before I start cutting holes into my tank. 

    Thanks, Viking


  15. Thanks for the input! I have been reading through the forum, but I'm still just scratching the surface. The reason I asked is because I read on one post here, that clay was used in a gas forge with success, however there was no mention of it being a heat sink which does makes sense. The weight is not an issue for me (I don't plan on moving it around much). Do you think a combination of clay as the main body, and a good quality refractory material as a cap would be sufficient enough to mitigate some of the heat loss? The cost isn't a make or break factor, but I do like free stuff. Like I said too, I have been having a hell of a time locally sourcing materials, if anyone on here can point me in the right direction that would be great! (I know there are at least a few Albertan's on here)

    Also, quick question, how does natural gas work as a replacement for propane? I have a hookup out side for my BBQ. 

    Viking


  16. I keep reading that people have mixed feelings on using straight clay as a refractory material. I have two questions; other than cracking, what are the major downsides of using clay? The reason I am asking is because I happen to work on a golf course that has incredible quality clay underneath, and free is always my first option, and I am having trouble trying to locally source other materials. Second, I am planning on using an old air tank, approx. 12" di....to save me some thread searching, what would be a good diameter for the inner chamber, and what size T Burner would you all suggest, 1"?

    Thanks, Viking.