BlackMetalViking

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Everything posted by BlackMetalViking

  1. As stated a few times already by you fine gentlemen, I use dowel, or another cylindrical piece of wood. However I have never needed to use epoxy, I just drill the holes slightly smaller and drive them on, mind you, I use softwood dowel so I don't usually have to worry about them splitting. 5/8-3/4" work great for chainsaw files. Lilac branches are great for this application as well because of their pithy core, you don't even need to drill, just push them on. But word of warning with using Lilac; if you bark it, there is a 90% chance it will split so I suggest leaving the bark on. Viking
  2. I used a small piece of spring steel, 12" x 1 1/2" x 1/8" to make a small crossbow. It has a lot of draw weight but the retraction is rather slow compared to the oak bow I made. its still a fun little crossbow, and is accurate out to maybe 15 yds, but it is not overly powerful, again lack of retraction speed. It was definitely great practice, especially for trigger design and function. Hope that helps some. Viking
  3. I was going to say the exact same thing. With my right hand(dominant), I learned with metal after reading about basic techniques. I am currently using a 2x4 to help train my left hand/arm. After only practicing a couple times I am able to do accurate enough power blows, so at this point I at least have enough control to relieve my dominant on larger stock. Once I get more control of the weight I will work on fine tuning my blows for finishing work. I highly suggest doing this for practice, so effective! Viking
  4. Thanks for all the info, so much to work with! TP: I wish I could answer two of those questions. The anvil just showed up one day with my uncle, he said he got it off an old rail road man. It is well used, and the only marking I can see is the weight. Unfortunately there was a bit of mis-use, the edges are chipped away, the table is full of chisel marks, the hardie hole is a little mis-shapen, and I would venture to say it was left in the elements a few times. As for the third question, I plan on using the anvil for a variety of tasks, so far I've made a few tools, knives, makeshift hardies etc. I have a deep interest in weaponsmithing so I imagine that is what the majority of the use will be. I ask because my plan was to build a un-insulated shed in the back yard. Currently I'm working out of my heated garage with my gassy, and I love it. But I really do want to get out side and start using charcoal(and the old lady wants to be able to park inside). Ideally, I'd get some land outside of town and build a proper smithy, but alas, I'm too broke for that! As for myself in the cold, I wouldn't say I enjoy it, but being a born and bred Canadian I can handle cold, especially when I'm working. I don't imagine I'll get a hankering to forge when its really cold, but -20ish is only a couple layers, no need for a parka/ski jacket. Thanks again everyone! Viking
  5. From reading other posts and threads, I have become aware that extreme cold is not friendly to anvils. My question is, what is the coldest atmospheric temperature you would consider too cold to forge without an anvil pre-heat? Our average winter lows are probably around -15 to -20 C. Thanks Viking
  6. A couple lengths of 4-6" PVC pipe with an end cap. You can cut it with ease to adjust to the height you need. Granted, it might melt if your tools are still hot, but its relatively cheap, if not free. Go to a local golf course and ask the turf department if they have any pieces just lying around, they most likely will. I do almost all of the irrigation work at the course I work at, and we always have useless lengths kicking around. Side note* Golf course turf/maintenance departments are also great places to go for high quality scrap, I frequently raid our scrap bin, everything from coil springs and axles, to rotary mower blades and bed knives, which are the bottom blades on a reel mower, they are generally a high carbon steel, and if they are name brand (Toro, John Deere, Jacobson), there should be specs available. If your local courses are anything like us, they'd rather spend the money on the greens rather than a scrap man. Just another potential source of material to keep in mind.
  7. If you want to spend the time, I've been pounding one out to try and make a slit chisel. Viking
  8. Has anyone ever heard of VITSET High alumina refractory mortar from VITCAS Refractories? I just found this stuff online and was wondering if anyone has heard of it or used it? Its ready mixed and they claim it is good to 3,200F. I like the idea of using a high alumina refractory, but the price has to be right. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Viking
  9. Great, I've been trying to figure those two out for a couple years now! Thanks for the info Don!
  10. Just start telling everyone you know that may have access to tools, or know someone that does. You'd be surprised how many old unwanted tools will just show up. I would suggest finding or making a hot cut hardy, it made life so much simpler! That one is easy, just get creative and make something! I made mine by hot pressing a brick chisel into a piece of pipe that was hot fitted to my hardy hole. It took a couple heats to get everything set just right, but it works slick as spit! Viking
  11. That makes sense, my Opa immigrated from The Netherlands after the war.
  12. I picked these two items up from my Opa's garage a couple years back. My best guess is that they are leather tools, they are both stamped with DRGM, any thoughts or theories?
  13. The last one looks like some sort of pipe flaring tool, that's a guess. Otherwise I'd go with Daswulf's theory of a wheel balance.
  14. I too agree with Thomas and Ivan. Viking
  15. Frosty's T burner plans have a complete parts break down. If you choose to go with a 3/4" burner, stick to his plans they are well put together!
  16. I switched from the pencil torch to the TS4000 which has a silver swirl, which I find far superior. My pencil torch took about 10 mins to heat up 1/2" rod, the swirl only takes a couple minutes. I find the swirl tip helps to kick start the vortex.
  17. I saw this one on the weekend, this dude is pretty awesome! I wish I had the time and the land to do what he does.
  18. I used a piece of half inch re-bar. It works perfectly, the re-bar has just the slightest amount of spring which helps immensely. Regards, Viking
  19. I was right were you are not too long ago Oberu. I would say, the single most important thing that was said to me was; Figure out what you want your forge to do. My plans far outreached my intentions for it, for now anyway, so I scaled way down. You'd be surprised what you can accomplish with a coffee can, some Kaowool, and a good propane torch. By scaling down first, it allowed me to better understand the science behind it, and what I need to add, change or remove in the future. I've already made a second improved coffee can forge, and I have plans to gradually go bigger the more I learn. I totally understand how you feel with regards to some of the replies you've received, I got the excrement knocked out of me after my first post. But I have learned that most of these guys would love nothing more than to see you succeed and will do all they can to help....except the work. I'm glad you are taking it all in, because I can say for myself, a few well constructed questions to these guys made up for years of wasted time searching the web on my own. Lastly, thank you for your service, I may not be American, but I sure appreciate all that NATO service men and women do to keep us safe. Viking
  20. After reading Mikey's comments on the Forge 101 thread and it got me thinking. I believe one could accomplish an oval forge in a round shell by layering strips of ceramic blanket on the top and bottom between the two rolled layers. Any thoughts? Viking
  21. I open the big door a foot or more, prop open the man door, and put a fan on the floor pointing into the garage to draw in fresh air, I would like to get another fan to put at the other door though. I have an 8ft ceiling in a 2 car, the ambient temp usually only goes up about 5degC after a couple hours of solid running. Granted my forge is a propane torch coffee can at the moment.
  22. Some of us do listen. I intended to start with an air tank about the size of a 5gal, and I am so glad I asked questions! Currently I am getting exactly what I wanted from a well designed, albeit, crude coffee can. I truly take every comment to heart, and I still will make that bigger forge one day, but I will take my time and plan it right. I definitely listened and learned from all of the past experiences you all shared and I cannot express the gratitude I have for everyone that took the time to help me. To any newbies like me reading, LISTEN TO THESE GUYS! They really know their stuff and they will be a huge help if you ask informed complete questions, just do some research on your own first. Understand that these guys get asked the same questions a million times over by guys like you and me, so do them a favor and use some of your own time self learning. Thanks for putting up with us newbies! Viking
  23. That was actually the first thing I noticed in the picture, I knew I'd see something from you on this Frosty, your plans are very straight forward to follow, and the sketch you made of the T and jet clearly shows the flare on the outside for connection fittings. If it works I guess, but I personally intend on following your plans....to the T.....(bad I know, but I couldn't help myself)