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kiddcaprix

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Everything posted by kiddcaprix

  1. Thank you for the story Frosty. I'm glad nobody was injured or you lost the house. I had a house fire in 2008. Lost everything including my 2 dogs. I was out of the country living in England for about 5 months. My wife was at work when it happened. Nobody knows why the fire happened. The fire marshal had no explanation and the insurance adjuster just wanted to be clear it wasn't arson. I knew one of the volunteer fireman at the time and asked him what he thought started it, he believed it was electrical in the basement (all electric was to code). Insurance covered everything and we built a new house and was in it a year later. Was not fun and don't want to go through it again. Some of the confusion and controversy that has come from this thread might be coming from the fact that I had plumbed in the wood stove with the forge. I agree that was a dumb idea and, as stated in a few of the first posts, was temporary and will be taken down shortly (just got the plug for the duct last night). I had 2 fires in that setup for about 4hrs of run time total. I love wood stoves, but hate the safety issues they pose. That's the primary reason I switched to the infrared heaters. I don't leave them on (a burning pilot light that is on all the time frightens me and FWIW, my house now is all electric and uses geothermal for HVAC). I only turn them on while I am in the shop and when it is really cold out. They kick off some major heat and are way easier to deal with than wood. I will save my wood for the fire pit outside. Thanks again for the comments and the stories. A lot can be learned from experiences shared! twistedwillow, with my experience with magnets here at work (I build prototypes), heat can demagnetize the magnets (even from hot melt). When people heat treat, you see them use magnets to check the material. When it looses its magnetism it reaches a different state (can't remember from my metallurgy classes what state it was called, quick search calls it the "Curie" state or temperature). Basically it's at least past a certain temp when it's demagnetized so one could quench after that without knowing temps exactly. Just my thoughts. Adam
  2. I love how simple and clean that side draft is and wanted to do something like it (studied that link for a while trying to see if I could get it to work). The location in the shop I had to work in along with the water cooled side draft forge didn't allow for me to do so. Primarily the bosh tank on the back prohibits the straight out approach. I may be able to modify my setup in the future to allow for such an exhaust. Will have to study my forge a bit to see what I can do. Thank you twistedwillow for the "two cents". My time is limited in the shop and I don't get to spend much time forging at the moment so I will defiantly keep an eye on it as I go. I have always been curious as to what the internal temps of the duct really is at certain areas along the exhaust. I might build an Arduino setup with some thermocouples to watch the temps in different areas both inside and out. Would also give me an early indication of temp rise if something were to happen such as your situation. Could potentially automate fire suppression also based on "run away" temps. Somebody might have done something like that already! Anyway, thanks again for the comments and advice. I do appreciate it (whether is seems so or not)! That's the problem with text, it's hard to get a sense of emotion, context, or social ques from it. With that said, if anyone wants to talk over the phone to discuss things, I would love to chat. PM me and I will give you my number. Thanks, Adam
  3. Sorry, I must have missed the comment on editing my profile. Will update shortly. Thanks for the reminder.
  4. I bought this last year at a garage sale. I thought it was a simple post drill but with the Acme square thread moving the entire arbor down would seem like it would be a horrible drill. I grabbed it thinking I could use it as a small fly press of sorts for a touch mark maybe but would have to make the business end float on a bearing or something of the like. It looks to accept a square shank (almost like a bit brace). The bench looks like either it was drilled at some point or was a thru hole that got blown out. Maybe an early arbor press?! Any thoughts? Might use it for pressing rivets or something like that. Thanks. Paid $10 for it. Adam
  5. My comment about moderation was based on Frosty's comment of "Were this my forum I would've moderated your posts...". I would like to know how "dangerous" my setup is that I don't seem to understand. I have 10" duct roughly 10' away from my fire source with at least 1" of air space around the pass thru. Also, a SS plate seperating the combustible OSB from the main 10" duct. Both vertical pipes inside and out are substantially more than the 6" requirement that DuraVent specifies. Short of it not being UL rated, nobody has said why this IS so dangerous. How is my setup more dangerous than a thimble? I am open to all criticism and appreciate it. I am all about constructive criticism as long it's constructive and I am learning from it. In no way am I trying to disrespect anyone and appreciate the input. Nobody learns anything if all that is being posted is negative responses without a reason to why or how it's wrong. Please feel free to close the post if you would like. I am ok with that. I apologize for any chaos I have caused. Kind regards, Adam
  6. Well Frosty, thank you for enlightening me on the way a public forum works. If I am the only one on this forum that has ignored "good building practices, code, law and legal liability, and to the devil with common sense" then I will humbly remove myself from this forum and the internet all together. I never stated I was smarter then anyone who makes the fixtures/duct work/thimbles. I don't see this setup being any worse than a pass thru wall hood with zero clearance right next to the heat. That is only my opinion, wrong, right, or indifferent! You may be correct in the fact that I have a "dangerous mess that lacks even basic understanding of draft and smoke behavior" but I sleep fine at night with this setup. Last time I checked, smoke rises. I don't believe "smoke behavior" is any different in Michigan as it is in Alaska! But that could be my "basic understanding" of it in which I seem to lack. I do this as a hobby with the funds and knowledge to preform it as such. It may not be what YOU would do and I respect your opinion and will leave it at that. You seem to have a lot of answers/opinions for this forum and I am surprised you are not a moderator! I don't apologize for what I posted, and anybody has the right to speak freely on the matter. Never once did I say to do it this way. Is it to code? No. Is it the worst idea ever? Based on your comments one would assume so, but I doubt it. Is it going to burn up the moment I light a match in it? No. Slap a "STUPID IDEA" sticker right at the beginning of the post, I am fine with that. It won't stop me from enjoying this hobby. And FWIW, my drawings were done with pens and markers by hand! Please, by all means, "learn to use a rendering program and make flashy drawings in a few days." I would love to see your work! Regards, Adam I would agree with that, a double wall section would be better than the spiral. Thanks for the info.
  7. I defiantly want to have as much air space as I can around the 10" pass thru. When I was "building" the thimble in the big box duct isle, I wasn't sure the space claim I had and what I could actually fit between the studs. I was looking at it last night and realized I have a few more inches of space on each side so I may be able to to a 14" reducer in there with the 10" down the center. I have a big roll of ceramic insulation I was gonna wrap the 10" with. Essentially creating a double wall. After looking at some store bought thimbles, I was thinking of drilling some big(ish) holes (~1" space axially) in the reducer section of the step down (inside and outside) to allow any "trapped" hot air to escape. I would need to cover the holes with mesh to stop bug intrusion.
  8. Yes David, to Frazers point, just did a search and I pulled the dimensions from the drawing and info on the internet in their "plans" section for the "Super Sucker Side Draft" hood. I may have tweaked a few of the dimensions to fit my needs, but it was pretty much exact. The one thing I have noticed that makes a difference in the hood design is the intake hole size based on the "expansion box" size. There is some low pressure/high pressure difference that aids in the draw of the hood. I have played a bit with, for lack of better words, adjustable shudders that I can choke down or open the size of the intake to speed up or slow down the draft. I believe I read some discussions on the intake size vs chamber size. This hood works really well. My other option was to make a big hood that hung over the forge. I wanted the space available above and did the side draft hood. Glad I did. To add to anvils comments, the pipe is 10" all the way from hood to vent. The homemade "thimble" is a 12" to 10" reducer to give me air space around the 10" that passes through the center. I agree that sharing the single pass through between the 2 different heat sources is/was not a good idea and have since change it (I now have propane infrared heaters instead of the wood burner). Thanks twistedwillow.
  9. Once I acquired the infrared heaters, I haven't even used the stove. So my temporary setup will be changing, just need to remove the pipe (as you suggested Thomas). Frosty, No attempt was made to quiet what I did. I explained my actions and thanked you all for the input. I wasn't looking for "Oos and aaws of admiration"! I was merely posting to show what has worked for me. Ideally, no, it's not the best and whether or not it is to code or acceptable by others, doesn't bother me. I was being very polite in my replies so your reply seems unprovoked (in my opinion). Again, I appreciate the information and accept all comments. This forum is about learning and doing something different. I built my entire setup from reading threads on this forum (minus the wood stove). Just trying to show a different approach. That is all. Kind regards, Adam.
  10. As stated previously, this was temporary. Good point to remove the stove pipe (in case something does go awry) and will look to get a plug and close off the side inlet by the pass through. Appreciate everyone's concerns. I don't want to lose my shop and would not have done this if I felt it unsafe as I am aware of the potential dangers. I wish I could remove the pic from the post as this was not the direction for the thread, but alas, it is locked in for posterity and what "not" to do for future reference. Again, thanks.
  11. That setup is temporary because I wasn't sure where I was going to place the fireplace. This was to see if it is worth having the fireplace there or to even have a fireplace at all (I really need a lower ceiling for the wood burner to be effective). I have since received some Mr. Heater infrared propane heaters I am setting up in its place (easier to move around in the shop if needed). I highly doubt that this setup is close to code. Ha. It did however work well for the few fires I had in it this winter. I ran the tee so I could add another forge in the future if I wanted too (want to build a bottom blast at some point just to have one). That fireplace will soon be going into a sauna I am planning to build. Thanks.
  12. Hello All, thought I would share the design I came up with for my chimney/hood/stack/forge setup. Admins, wasn't sure to post it here or in the builds! This is primarily about my stack so... Please move if needed. So I read through a bunch of the threads on here and built my setup based on what seemed to be the consensus (with materials I had on hand). I was given a few 6'-ish pieces of 10" spiral duct and decided to build around those. I built my forge at the same time using the water cooled side draft forge design and the hood is built from the "Super Sucker Side Draft" design. I had a few issues with the tuyere being too close to, and too far below the face of the side draft so I made an adjustable setup where I can move the tuyere left and right (while standing from the side) and up and down to fine tune the hood (first pic shows the original setup, forth pic shows the modified setup). I can show more pics of that setup if anyone wants to see it. It is limited to about 2"-4" of movement, but I don't see it moving again. The forge was built from an old oil fuel tank I got from my neighbor. The base was from a recycle heat treat oven. I am using a blower that is in the base and piped out to the tuyere through the side. I control my flow with a VFD (variable frequency drive). I can come up to welding heat in about 5 minutes from the start of the fire. I didn't want to go through the roof of my workshop because I didn't want to try and deal with sealing a thimble with a steel corrugated roof. And I really couldn't afford the thimble for a 10" duct anyway. I couldn't find a wall thimble at 10" locally so I wanted to see if I could make my own with just store bought components. I drew a cross section to show the idea I came up with. This is primarily the reason for the post, to show a different way. I am also about 8'-10' away from the fire so the heat at the "thimble" is not crazy hot but it is warm. So take precaution, I am not accountable for anything that could go wrong with your setup! I can forge for a long time and not have any issues with heat. The vinyl siding on the outside is in direct contact with the 12"-10" reducer and I haven't seen any signs of melting or warping at all. So figured I would show the setup. Again, please be cautious and check temps regularly. Every time I fire up the forge, I am checking the pass thru inside and outside. The side draft works great, it draws like crazy (once it gets warmed up) and I am super happy with the outcome. I used firebricks I had from the recycled heat treat oven to take up the dead space so all of that is not coal! (pic shows an early setup of bricks, I ended up making a pocket around the tuyere and then making a shelf about 2" from the top) Forgot to snap a pic of the final layout. My water has antifreeze in it, that's why it looks rusty. Will be painting it here in the summer and finishing up a few things, but all in all I am happy. Hope this helps. Regards, Adam Edit: I wish I could remove the above pic from the post as this was not the direction for the thread, but what "not" to do for future reference.
  13. Thanks guys, that's what I was kinda leaning towards. My plan was to actually manually control the flue cap with an extension rod (i.e. pull it down to open and up to close or something of the like) if I decided to use it. They were going to scrap it all, so I figured maybe I could use it! That duct work is quite rotund. Hopefully somebody around me is in need of some heavily discounted double wall huge pipe! Thanks!
  14. Hello all, I am having a dilemma. I have read many a fine posts on chimney size here and am wanting to get some feedback from you all. I have graciously received from my cousin (works in industrial HVAC) about 30' of brand new Metal-Fab 18" SS double wall duct for free. It is 18" id SS duct with a 1" fire blanket wrapped around that all encased in a 20" od aluminized steel pipe. They are in sections about 4' long. Plus a weighted flue topper. I am wanting to build a side blast forge and will be running the chimney about 15' total (maybe more if needed). Would you run with the big 18" duct, or try and sell it and use the money to get say 12-14"? I have read that 18" can be almost too big, but height of the duct can offset that to help with draft. Some people have said that 18" works well on their setups. I have been struggling whether to sell this pipe (new it would cost about $3500+) or use it? I may not be able to sell based on the size! Just trying to make a decision. It's gonna be a bit of weight to support but I am not too worried about that. More worried if I will be struggling to get a good draft going? Any thoughts to help me make a decision would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. -Adam
  15. Yeah, I got pretty lucky finding an anvil in this condition. Most of the "texture" was just dirt and debris. Those were pictures of when I picked it up. Just hammering on it has clean the surface up quite a bit. The scale is a pretty good abrasive and helps clean the dirt off. I would just hammer on it and it will clean up. Anything that has transferred into my work piece I leave because I like the hand worked look of things. Or if making a blade, the texture comes out in the finishing process. My face is pretty smooth so I haven't notice any spots that transfer. -Adam
  16. That Columbian you have is crazy different than mine. I am amazed at how the processes for manufacturing these differ so much. Besides that, my Columbian has been a great anvil. Great rebound, nice ring, and she comes in right at 180lbs. Glad I got her. I haven't been on any other anvil since I started swinging so I can't add any comparisons. I would buy another (bigger) Columbian if the opportunity arose. Mine also had a slight protrusion on the bottom but not as dramatic as yours. I ground mine off and called it good.
  17. Gote, I agree with your statement of "base" being what is "holding" the steel plate (if wrought). I may have stated it wrong from a description stand point, I was thinking that the "base" was everything under the working surface. I guess the nomenclature was misused on my part. The confusion might be coming from the fact that (correct me if I am wrong) the wrought iron forged anvils where made up of different parts, like a "base" which stops at the waist, the top section (waist to welded face), horn, heel, and welded face. The cast steel being all cast with a machined, hardened, and ground face. I was just wondering if there was a dramatic difference in feel/work/reliability between the two types of fabrication techniques. I would assume (since, I believe, all new anvils being sold are cast steel) the cast steel anvils would be more sought after these days because of the lack of potential forge welded separations that might occur from a forged anvil. You see a a lot of anvils with face separation or the horn broke off or the heel. I haven't seen anything other than chipped edges on a cast steel anvil. Please don't get me wrong here, I have no bias towards one or the other. I would love to have a quality forged anvil just for the history. I happened to come across the Columbian and like it a lot. I am totally green when it comes to anvils so please take my thought as just that. I just love the history of these old tools and try to learn as much as I can about how thing were/are made. BTW my AIA copy is on its way. Going on a week long camping trip next week and am looking forward to reading it. Thomas, sorry to hear about your wife. I hope she is doing better. Regards, Adam.
  18. For sure on it being cast steel. I can defiantly tell/feel/hear the difference between the full cast iron 100lber I bought years ago (now a door stop/starter anvil for my 3 year old son (cold forging)) to the Vulcan which is cast and plated to the Columbian. The Columbian is night and day different. Starting to really enjoy it. -Adam
  19. Thanks Thomas for the reply. I worked on the old girl a bit more last night and really noticed quite a difference from the Vulcan to the Columbian. I have to tie the anvil to the base but liked the feel. I found a bit more info on the tag on the side of the anvil. HSB & Co was supplier of all types of tools and supplies back in the late 1800's to well into the 1900's. Some re-branded stuff, some of their own stuff. I found a catalog from 1922 showing that they did in fact sell their own anvils, but may have had them made from a company. Their process they state doesn't really match the Columbian process from a stand point of all cast vs forged and cast. The weight on the anvil doesn't align with the ones they sell. Still interesting. I wonder if anyone has actually seen a specific "HSB& Co. Rev-O-Noc" anvil? Maybe they had Columbian make these? Anyway, interesting none the less. -Adam
  20. Ok, I must have not searched very well! Anvilfires Columbian page shows an anvil with the logo on the same side as mine. Still the only one i have seen other than mine.
  21. Thanks guys. I was wondering if there is a dramatic difference really between a wroght iron forged base and a cast steel base? The mass (in comparable weights) would be the same and the faces are roughly the same hardness. So I would think the "work" done by the anvil would be about the same. What would one benefit from a forged iron vs cast (steel) base if rebound and "work" where equal? Does the forged base reflect more energy than the cast steel? I know iron is more ductile than steel so those would absorb the energy more. I have only worked on my Vulcan and Columbian now so really don't have a comparison to say a Peter Wright/Hay Budden/Trenton etc. The Columbian is significantly different from the Vulcan (cast steel vs iron). Would a forged base feel or work steel better/different than the Columbian? Anyone have experience with both? Just wondering. On a side note, one thing I noticed with my anvil vs others I have seen is the embossed triangle with the c is cast with horn to the right. All the other anvils have it cast with horn to the left. I have yet to find a picture of one like mine! Just something I noticed. I would assume that they would have been consistent in their process with placement of the mark. Maybe it was based on weight? Sorry about the photos. Dont know how they came in upside down. Not sure how to fix them also.
  22. Well, I took the scale and weighed it. Came in right at 180. Rings great, no cracks, awesome rebound all over the face. Even on the horn and step. My one inch ball almost smacked me in the face on the return bounce. 80-90% rebound. Was hoping for closer to 200lbs but... the ol' girl looks almost new. Looks like a cast "C" or "G" on the opposite side. She has an interesting badge riveted under the triangled c that, I believe, reads HSB & Co and REV-O-NOC. Looks like it is a gun manufacturer amongst other things. Might be some cool history there I might try to dig up. Not sure if they sold anvils, or it was part of their shop and they tagged their capital goods??! Didn't get any off, so $2.50 a lb. She is a bit bigger than my Vulcan so should do pretty well. Happy and home, sitting on a stump in the garage. Waiting to be used. Sorry about the photos, they are from the iPad and not the phone (phone was dead). Will try to get a better shot of the badge in the daylight tomorrow. Thanks for the advice all. -Adam
  23. I talked with the older gentleman over the phone about the Columbian, he doesn't know the weight but proceeded to hit the face with a claw hammer to let me hear the ring over the phone. It was hard to get a word in with that guy. He is not into blacksmithing and just collected things but is FIRM on the price. I am going to look at it tomorrow and weigh it but am fairly certain it is around 200. If it looks as good as it does in the photo, I might be bringing it home with me!
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