Rmartin2

Looks like early Peter Wrights were actually stamped on t he opposite side from the weight. Also some were either stamped P. Weight or Peter Wright. Maybe the P was a light strike or just missing from mine. These marking date it between 1830-1852. 
 

Can anyone confirm this? This information was posted in a Facebook anvil group. 

Two part question here. 
First question, did Peter Wright ever just stamp “Wright” only on one side of their anvils and the stone weight on the other? The only other marking I see is a 5 on the front base. I’ll know there is a Henry Wright but research shows that was an American anvil and would have pounds stamped instead. We’re there other Wright anvil makers? 
 

Second question, this 100 pound suspected  Peter Wright has what I would call a ring, muffled ring, ring. The majority of the ringing coming from the horn and heel with the muffled ring coming from the center. At first I though something was wrong but I’ve seen 2 videos on YouTube where the Peter Wrights have the same ring pattern. Is this normal? The rebound could be anywhere from 50-70% depending on where I drop my ball bearing. I say depending based on the face not being perfectly smooth. Is the muffled ring in the center normal for a Peter Wright?

My nozzle is fixed. Nice trick for cleaning the tip. I’ll have to try that.  

Thanks for the tip Les. I switched to a flux core nozzle which leaves the tip sticking out maybe 1/8 of an inch. The spatter pretty much covers what portion of the tip is sticking out and the end of the nozzle. After a couple of welds I usually take rag and wipe it off. Most of it flakes off then I use a wire brush to clean the rest. I figured this was happening because of the higher amperage over the HF. 

Frosty, I'll get a bottle someday but for now the flux core works fine. I bought extra tips. 

I actually bought my stick welder first and used it for a couple of weeks before i got the Handler 190. Since then I have hardly picked up the stick. To me the ease of use of wire feed (even though it's flux core) outweighs the stick. 

Just want to throw out my experience with a HF 90a flux core welder. I had one for a decade and used it occasionally. Toward the end of my time with it I was putting it through its paces. Finally decided I was welding enough to upgrade and bought a Hobart AC/DC stick and a 190a mig. I passed the working HF on to a friend that occasionally needs a welder. Funny thing is I hardly had any tip problems with that HF and used the same one for almost the duration on the time I had it. My Hobart mig (using flux core wire) is always getting spattered up. But there is NO comparison to the difference in quality of the Hobart weld over the HF. I guess what I'm saying is, from my experience, the HF is decent for occasional small jobs. I wouldn't hesitate to get another if I needed to. Learning to control the voltage and wire speed was the best thing for the HF. 

That was great!

You should post it in the improvised anvil thread. 

I buy work clothes at the thrift store so I don't worry about holes or completely ruining them. But I do have a harbor freight leather apron for grinding work. 

I would need a lot of WD40 or PB blaster to cover my Wilton C2 vise. Right now I just spray it down every 2 days. I got it pushed in enough that the key on th shaft was resessed in the body so it left me a tiny resivior to fill up.

PB Blaster needs to come out with an IV drip for rusty things. Set it and forget it. 

Yeah I have a couple of stakes that have Pexto stamped in them. Don’t remember the exact location though. 

Looks like a Pexto stake.

That sounds exactly like one of mine except mine has 4.5” jaws. Mine also had a date of 12/27/1906 stamped under the mounting plate next to the 2. I don’t recall the jaw width being stamped in my jaw but I do remember another year stamped on it. I think it was 1907. I do have the 50 stamped on the moving jaw. 

Edit: I think I determined it to be a Columbian  even though it didn’t have the “C” stamped on it. 

I soaked one of mine in PB Blaster for a week. Then drove a wedge in the jaws and they came right apart. I guess it depends on the level of seize. 

Chris just keep doing what you’re doing and be the better person. There are always those people on forums that will ruin the experience. I’m right there with you on “I’m here to learn”. 

I did.

Chris I read the replys a about your vise over there. You showed real class in your responses. The best one was the guy discounting the 9-1/2" wide jaws and you reply with a pic of the tape measure. Pure gold. 

These are axles from an 18 wheeler trailer landing gear. Solid and 1-7/8” diameter ,16-1/2” long and 13# each. Now the idea was for making hammers. Since they were axles I would think med carbon. Anyone have input?

I

7 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

The top was a RR spike driver; my avatar picture is of me forging the shaft from 2.5" sq stock using another smith's 200# chambersburg.

When I see your avatar I think "lightsaber".

So what was it about the Emerson that you decided on it over the other anvils? What other anvils were you looking at?

I see a several solutions. Enlarging the slots seemed like the easiest and one that hasn't been presented. Looking back you're right that hacking on an antique probably wasn't the best idea. Good call. 

How about enlarge the U bracket slots and make a wider wedge for that?

Scored a couple more Wilton vises today at the scrapyard. Wilton C2 and a 1740 tradesman. They need some work.  

What a score! I got, what I consider lucky, with my 150# Vulcan for $100. Nothing like this though. Nice Spitfire on the wall too.