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I Forge Iron

200mphbusa

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Everything posted by 200mphbusa

  1. More Pic's as requested, it's a two burner, I'll post a few more pics, later tonight, need to take a few. :
  2. Gents--steal to you hearts content, I have gotten more far back from this site. Keep an eye out for the jig I will soon post about the bender I have built. Cheers!
  3. Just finished this today made two one for me and one for a buddy. Haven't had a test run yet but it should work fine.
  4. I now know how you guys must feel after the first time firing up the old forge, I have been working on this for months and today was the day! Could not see anything in daylight so I waited till the sun went down. A few adjustments and it's cooking with gas. Here are a few shots:
  5. Charlotte--I think I understand what you are getting at is there any chance you have a photo of how you configured the curtain and the chimney, if so it would be much appreciated. Thanks!
  6. Avadon--thank you for your words of wisdom, I too have a "dirty" shop at times mainly because of the angle grinder working on welds, that fine dust covers every thing in sight and the stuff you can not see but find five years from now. I would like to protect the interior I will probably do something like you have shown with your forge and when done for the day, either slide in a block or fab up a cover to make it some what tight for dirt and bugs. I did coat the interior of one forge (I am making two) with Plistix 900, I believe it is the equivalent of ITC 100. I got the mix from a great source: Burner Flares & Gas Forge Parts Prankanow--I doubt the coating of the bricks would do any good, these things are so delicate if you look at them wrong they want to crumble, God forbid, if you were ever to drop one to the floor from a few feet up, might as well get a dust pan. Thanks guys for your thought and advice.
  7. Mike-hr: They are the light weight type and they cost me an arm and leg and first born and three hours to go get them half way across the state, I have to go get a towel now because I am crying all over the key board.......they do appear to disintegrate if you look at them sideways. And what is now the worse part of all, is that I was planning to use a higher temp brick as the base for inside. That $6 brick will last about as long as it takes to pull the first piece of steel out. How come I didn't post that question on bricks earlier? Experience is a wonderful thing, it allows you to recognize a mistake when you make it again. Oh well, this is my first Forge Rodeo..... and that's the excuse I'm sticking to.
  8. Avadon--thanks, I appreciate the advice, I had not thought of hinging the back but certainly could so and its just as easy to fab up two as it is one. If I do put a sliding gate in the front and back, I am assuming I probably want to use something heavy like 1/2" or 3/8" plate given this piece would be not be insulated. Again many thanks, the help is much appreciated.
  9. Gents--I have contemplated enclosing the back end of my forge. It is made out of 12" diameter pipe with a Kaowool insulation. I have based this design after forges that were used in a Blacksmith class I took. My initial intent was to use fire bricks for both the front and back and in the event it is necessary to get to the middle of a longer piece it could poke out the back. I would like to tap into the wealth of experience here and ask: Should I close in the back (weld up a 1/4" thick plate) and place Kaowool to insulate? Should I also do the same with the front--1/4" Plate welded with a sqaure opening and same insulation but hinged such that the whole front opens Or, just use the brick concept and call it a day? Here is a photo of the current state of the forge using the brick option:
  10. Steve and nakedanvil--thanks for the info and the thoughts concerning the coating. I am going to go ahead and coat it for several reasons: first it is going to be kept outside and where I live, the wool will make an outstanding bed for all sorts of critters including scorpions (which I would love to cook). Secondly, I feel this would help it keep it's shape and stay up against the pipe. lastly, I think this would simply help protect it from the occasional pokes placing steel in and out of the forge. Again many thanks for sharing your experience.
  11. Frosty--did all the machining myself, with a lathe, mill, welders, plasma cutter and chop saws, I can knock a lot of different fabrication. I have not fired it up yet, but have used similar versions, a photo or two is attached. Now having read up and found out a lot more info, I probably should have angled the burners, I should have also made the inside pipe replaceable, right now it is all one piece up to the elbow. Oh well, it's called experience. The alignment wasn't too bad I did all the pipe work (connections) first then measured center to center and build everything off that dimension. I plan to fire it up at night so I can see the flame and then adjust the nozzle in or our via the threaded rod. The nozzles are 0.030 MIG tips from my Miller MIG.
  12. Steve--thanks, it is good to know before using it. May I ask on other question, before applying it did you fire up and dry out the Kaowool or insulation?
  13. Here's a few shots of the burner. Can't say this is my design, I copied it from the instructor that I took a blacksmith class from, Gordon Williams. It's pretty self explanatory.
  14. Gents--I am in the final throes of completing a propane forge. I am planning to line it with Kaowool. I am also planning to coat the Kaowool with Plistix 900. I have two questions, if I may impose on you for a moment of your time. 1. If I coat the Kaowool will it tend to stiffen up some such that it will stay against the side of the forge? I am using a 12" dia. pipe and I would like this stuff to stay against the sides of the pipe. See the photo below. The reason the brick is labeled is because I needed to dedifferentiate it from the lower temp bricks (jezz these things are expensive). 2. Would you recommend any form of bonding agent that would withstand the temps and "stick the Kaowool to the inside of the pipe? In advance thank for your time and assistance.
  15. Greetings Gents and Ladies--I'm new to the board, this is my first post. As a birthday present last year my wife bought me a Blacksmith's class with Gordon Williams at the Pieh Tool Company in Camp Verde, AZ. Since then I have been fabricating a propane forge from 12" Diameter 1/4" wall pipe and I have managed (very fortunately) to find a Hay Budden 100 Lb Anvil in fairly good shape, a swage block and a few tongs and hammers. Today I am working on an anvil stand. I should be pounding out projects shortly. My father was a tool and die maker and it must have been in the genes, I am the consummate gear head and metal worker, shop consists of Lathe, Mill, Cut Off saw (abrasive and cold), TIG, MIG, Stick, Plasma Cutter, Oxy Acetylene, grinders, and all the supporting tooling. I look forward to the wealth of experience here on the board. In advance Thanks!
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