• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by RobbieG

  1. Yep those are some really nice work, I may have to borrow that framed design if that's OK? Very creative
  2. That looks pretty similar to the clip on connections on UK patio gas/butane bottles - I have never seen an adjustable reg for those as the appliances that use them have needle valves fitted (they are usually 28 or 37 mbar fixed regulators)
  3. That type of clip on regulator is usually non-adjustable (in the UK at least) so that could be a problem. Where are you located?
  4. I have used glass filled nylon (Nylon PA66 GF30) sheaves for running wire ropes with good success (1/2" dia wires - several ton loads)- I would be surprised if they wear too quickly here.
  5. That's a great looking hammer! Did you forge by hand/with striker/power hammer?
  6. You might struggle with forge welding the spring steel to itself. I have seen posts from some others about forging the hammer body from mild then forge welding a spring steel face on but not sure how effective it has been.
  7. I love that they form it up using hydraulic pressure - must be a massively beefed up version of a blow mould for drinks bottles.
  8. Cheers guys, gives me a reference point to start with!
  9. Hi what mixture ratio do you use when making up rigidiser from fumed silica and water? I have previously bought premixed but its expensive so just wondering how much dry powder I need to buy, thanks!
  10. As Thomas has pointed out things are different here; whilst it is not illegal to own bottles, you will not be able to get them refilled easily by any reputable source. Since I run a few propane tanks for gas forge/home cooking/BBQ etc the oxy propane may be the way to go - the gas cutting could come in handy too I guess. I will definitely look into this as well, sounds interesting!
  11. Cleaning it up with a grinder is highly unlikely to take it anywhere near a temperature where annealing would occur, even if you controlled the cooling phase. Clean up one end for use, mount it with that end up and use if for a while. If that end gets bashed up beyond use, clean it up again or flip it over and clean up the other end.
  12. I have built one of Frostys burners and have been using it for a while now, its a great design. I'm more interested in something that would allow me to apply heat to a very small area quickly. If the only option is Oxy-propane or Oxy acetylene then I'll just have to start saving and make sure I use it enough to justify the running cost!
  13. Hi there, can anybody recommend suitable torch alternatives to oxy acetylene for isolating heats for the likes of riveting and some scrollwork? Set-up costs for oxy acetylene are very high here because bottles have to be taken on a lease basis. I have a small butane torch but it doesn't have the heat required for anything larger than a 6mm (1/4") rivet. Up to now I have been heating in the forge and cooling with water where required but it would be nice to be able to get really accurate heats at times. I don't have much interest in gas welding so oxy propane was a consideration, but the oxy bottles still need to be hired. Are there any propane torches with enough power for this type of thing? Thanks
  14. 3D printing technologies are moving so fast these days. I would like to see the heat shielding they would require to create steel droplets instead of aluminium!
  15. Looking good! Some guys position their anvil as a rest (forge would need to be close in height) or fabricate a stand - there are many ways to skin that one! In the the last photo you appear to have the steel angled down into the firepot, this isn't ideal; you really want the metal going straight across the top of the firepot through the reducing section of the fire. Glenn has posted many times (sticky here: ) about the shape your fire should be and the reasons for not angling into the firepot. Also the bucket under the ash dump appears to be plastic, there is the possibility that the material coming out of there would be hot enough to set a plastic bucket on fire so perhaps change that out. Otherwise, happy forging!
  16. Well its definitely sturdy looking! I like the little sliding fence you have there, is there any reason you didn't include a matching one on the other side? It might be useful to have if you are heating the middle of a long piece.
  17. RobbieG


    I'm a manufacturing engineer for a lifesaving equipment manufacturer (Lifejackets and Liferafts).
  18. Whilst safety is an obvious concern when using flammable gases, provided you use a common sense approach and avoid obvious risks, gas forges are as safe as any other piece of equipment outputting in excess of 1000 degrees celcius! One thing I have seen frosty recommend is to use copper hosing for all the connections within range of the forge - this is something I have not been able to do due to availability of parts locally but is something worth looking at. I wouldn't shelve the project just yet, gas forges are so convenient to use - especially if you have only short periods of time in which to forge. For positioning of the propane tank, I keep mine just outside the garage roller door with the hose coming in under the semi open door (which also provides good air exchange). The forge is perpendicular to the hose so that the flames at exhaust cannot impact directly, and I have shut-off valves at tank end and forge end of the hose. Also have a CO monitor in the garage for safety.
  19. Hi Uinseann, if you are just starting out have you considered taking some lessons? I was in Sligo in September for a one-to-one day with Michael Budd in Castlebaldwin and can thoroughly recommend.
  20. Its an easy thing to forget - luckily for me changes in humidity are not a common concern in Ireland, we tend to stay between 70 and 90% all year round!
  21. RobbieG


    I found his page recently also but missed the bowls - some of his work is just unbelievable! Definitely worth checking out
  22. RobbieG


    That's good to know, I dug a couple of 2mm thick discs out of a scrap bin recently so that will give me something to use them for
  23. WD40 isn't really designed to be an oil - its a water displacer (WD!)
  24. RobbieG


    Are you all using a version of your SPoA or freehanding these on the anvil? I guess a gouged out stump would work ok - maybe a little smoky if the steel is hot!