CoyoteGear

I finally got a post vise!! I have been using my bench vise and trying to be gentle with it as I know they are not meant for the abuse. But every once in a while you get carried away and take a few swings at the hot item in the vise. But this weekend I scored this little beauty, the guy was asking $125 (the cheapest I have seen on the oly-pen) and I didn't hesitate to pull out my anvil cash stash to seal the deal, opens and closes very smooth, everything is solid and tight, only one little chip out of one of the jaws. Not sure make, age etc. The only mark I found is the 2 under the mounting bracket. Any help on age manufacturer etc would be appreciated. Thanks guys! I can't wait to weld up a stand for this little guy and put him to work

Can't claim this as my own, but I did hold it while the master welded it! Hands are forged out of a couple old wrenches, most of the body came from my old truck after I did lockers and a lift kit. All work was done by my 9 year is daughter. I did pull the wrenches out off the forge and hold them while she hammered, and prep the welds, everything else was all her. Now he stands in the flower bed keeping a watchful eye out for iron butterfly and such.

Looks good man! Reminds me of that robot unicorn game from adult swim a few years ago. Can't wait to see the dog

Nothing yet, I just need one more than I have.... as I always will I keep a wad of cash in my wallet and a ball bearing in every car just in case I come across a good deal.... or any deal really. @swedefiddle, do you ever come down into the states? I see that you are not that far away.

128# Peter Wright, I leveled the bottom of the stump with a router and then also put a 1/4-1/2" footprint into the top of it to hold the anvil, I noticed that after I tightened the chains down that it went from being a high ping to being a very solid whack, the rebound is excellent and for being from the late 1800's I'd say it is in excellent shape! oh and the webbing is 2" nylon webbing to keep hammers close at hand. Still on the lookout for a little larger anvil, but this one has been great to learn on and continues to serve me well Blade on top was my first attempt at a tonto blade.

Thank you all for your help, I ended up picking up this 128# Peter Wright for a closed down blacksmith shop today. Spent 2 hours walking around a closed blacksmith school (old cedar forge) and looking at all the cool old stuff, too bad it's shut down, but the master smith there was more than willing to share some knowledge and hook up an aspiring junior smith with his first anvil. Too bad I couldn't have done an apprenticeship there, I bet they had a blast everyday.

I got an e-mail reply from her today saying it is stamped either 1-2-015 or 15. I was also scared by the paint, and because it's my first anvil so I'm trigger shy of getting screwed and then eating a big chunk of change. I met with a guy the day before this posted with a little anvil and I did the bearing drop test (read about on this site) and it was bouncing around 10% on rebound. I had to pass on it, then he said he had a 110# and a 190# around back and both those were 80ish% rebound but he wanted $5 a lbs and said "my buddy gets 6-7 a pound all day at the flea market over in seattle." I thanked him for his time and left my number in case he came across anymore that he would be willing to part with for $4 a lb and I would be back. Thank you guys for your help thus far. I think I'll be driving down to look at this one tomorrow. I'll throw the scale in the trunk

So I found an anvil on CL and struck an internet deal with the lady at $3 a lb for this guy. I haven't seen it in person yet, and all I know is from her add (so I really know nothing). She said it was her late husbands, and was used at a logging camp from 1920-1930 before he got ahold of it. He was supposedly a collector of anvils and this is the only one that's left. its between 2-250# 25.5"x5"x13" It's 3 hours away so I'm hoping to get a little insight before I commit to a 6 hour trip just to find out its a cast pile poo that isn't going to out perform my RR track. Any insight would be appreciated, currently waiting to hear back if there are any markings on it. Will update with her response.

I've done duracoat and cerakote on rifles, both held up pretty well with only minor field wear. I've also done a few with regular engine header ceramic based paint, and they actually held up surprisingly well. I'll be following this post because I also want a good black/grey finish. Have you thought about gun bluing?

I saw a commercial about how a truck bed was made out of the same rolled steel that the hulls of submarines are. (BIG ONES, ie US Navy) Yet I'm about 100% sure that no truck manufacturer is using HY80 for their trucks, and I'm also about 100% sure that's what sub hulls are made of