BeaverNZ

More progress with the conrod and a new phone yippie and I tried the proper die for the first time though I used the aluminum forging from the other die just to see what would happen and it looks ok. Now I need to make the central button that will form the centre of the big end and work out what shape the blank will need to be. I am going to do the trial forging using aluminum to reduce the chance of damaging my tooling. The cross section of the rod beam looks ok as well, the weight of the dies and mounting block adds about 10Kg to the mass of the tupp so that should help as well

thats really nice work

Wow thats a beautiful blade i really like that pattern but does anyone else see the faces in the pattern in that last pic of the blade

This weekends work was succesful a W pattern axe , Its just not as W uey as I was hoping. Bandsaw blade and crane rail track and the last two pics are some new tooling for the press for punching the eyes

I have just hopefully posted a very short and poor vid of my first go at forging a conrod for a motor bike that I am buliding and some stills that you can see more detail, I need a new phone . The centre button of the die needs to be bigger in dia to push the metal further out but its replaceable so I will either be able to use the bigger one next time or step up through several sizes to get the result I need as my hammer is probably far to small but if I keep removing the flash so it dosent absorb any more force it may work WP 20190524 15 53 48 Pro

Cheers back at ya Ausfire from across the Deetch LOL I wont try quoting as with my clumsy keyboard skills getting me in trouble with the Mods

So far I havent heat treated it at all, What ever sort of steel it is is fairly hard just from air cooling and I suppose the lack of mass lets it cool quickly as well. I will probably do a heat treat that will be just the usual non magnetic and temp to a dark blue or some thing that can be filed

I have completed my first draw knife today, I have wanted to make one of these for ages for hammer and axe handles. It was made from an off cut from a crane rail that is 1080 steel

I have just completed my first scissors as a practice, I intend to make more but out of pattern welded steel. Those were forged from 2 grade 12.9 counter sunk bolts. At start I had forged and partly ground the taper the wrong way but was able to correct the mistake I have removed the thread as this is bad for cold shuts and removed the tapered head for ease of forging as well

Yep thats exactly the same as mine, And mine came from the Invercargill railway workshop as far as I know

I have finally got my power hammer instillation complete apart from painting the motor mount and new guarding Yippie its only taken two years but the winter weather is here and I dont want to get soaked by doing the outside work. I may yet put a rolled flat bar around over the foot pedal yet just to stop any heavy items that get away from pushing the bar down I think that will be the least intrusive meathod of making this safer

When I say you need Hp I am assuming its its matched to the correct sized pump to use it, Power at speed req more volume that can be pumped at pressure its a fact. While I am all for scrounging and dumpster diving which I am all ways on the lookout for miss matched hydraulics never work properly and can be dangerous

Maybe I wasnt being clear enough but I was trying to compare the difference between a 4 and 5 inch ram hence the fractions as the area of the piston changes by the same precentage as the dia changes and the results it produces. And Im not sure frosty was getting at In the last coment but never mind, but to have a high tonnage pushing quickly you need more power (Hp or Kw ) than the same force traveling at a lower speed I hope our efforts have helped cheers

If you use a 4" ram then the tonnage you will get will be 4/5 or 80% of 24 tons so that will be 19.2 tons at the same operating pressure and you will get 5/4 x the speed which is 1.25 times the speed. Its as Frosty says its like gearing and as you dont give the max pressure I am assuming it will be the same as before for those answers I have given. If you want the same speed as before then you can put a smaller displacement pump on the same motor and pump a higher pressure which if you have the same power input will give the same performance that is speed and tonnage as the first press with the smaller ram with the greater pressure. I hope this helps Cheers Beaver

Yes as Frosty says for fast a powerful you need Horse power, My previous post was assuming matched components

For an in tank pump pretty much any flange mounted pump should work and you need to put a suction pipe down to close to the bottom of the tank. I have seen power packs made with an inspection cover on the top with the pump mounted to this as the drawing the a monkey with a burnt stick drew up for me, the silicon around the flanges of the bellhousing keep the oil away from the coupling as the oil eventually softens the rubber. Oh and two stage pumps are usually cheaper as well though dont go for the real cheap ones of doubtfull parentage as the internal seats in the pump quickly fail

That should have good torsional strength I have made wood splitters with RHS and heavy plate welded to it that has the same cross section as that. An I beam does not have much torsional strength compared The RHS beam will be my method of construction when I build one for piercing hammer eyes etc

Wow do they even make a 10Hp single ph the starting curent must be horrendous, A 10 hp on 400 volt 3Ph is 15 amps or there abouts

I like my stickers better but i couldnt post them on here , I would get banned. But plain lanuage avoids misunderstandings. Nice fast press too with no tipping Good work

I got all excited for a minute there Steam and a power hammer

It looks like its been run through a complicator a few times

He was talking about gear oil I cant remember what the aditive was and after some research I brought some Total Carter EP 220 which says it has extreme aditives but is suitable for Bronze worm gears so maybe it depends on the aditives added. The good old 90 diff oil does have a disintive smell but im no expert on the slippery stuff

I did it because I found the clamping action inconveniant when using hand held tooling you can see the range of actions the hammer has as you move the treadle through its range in some of the very first vids on this thread I think, Its not a lock as such it just stops it from fully returning in its travel. I really need to get the belt guarding done before I get the next vist from The OSH safety man as he will have a stroke as he will perceive the hammer to be very dangerous just from its operation let alone unguarded belts etc

Here are some pics of the last few modifications I have done to my hammer that greatly improve how it goes for how I use it. The first two are of the foot pedal stop that swings up so its as made and in the down position holds the pedal in a sweet spot so the hammers cycles like a clear space to avoid the clamping action between the tupp being all the way up when not being used and actually hammering. The next photo is an oil catching gutter to stop it slobbering oil onto the drive belts and every where else and drains into a container at the base I may put one around the base of the control spool as alot of oil drips off that as well. the last pic is my version of a tooling clamp thats been done plenty of times by others Cheers beaver

What type of seal does it have on the shafts, that may make your decision for you. if it has laberinth type seals then its grease lip type seals then you can go for oil. A Master diesel mechanic mate of mine said that you have to be careful not to use gear oil with Extereme presure aditives in it as those aditives will react with the copper in the bronze/brass. maybe a semi fluid gear grease will cover all the bases