BeaverNZ

Has anyone tried using the diamond masonary grinding wheels for grinding hardened blades, They would probably need to be driven at a slower speed and maybe cooled and lubed with water but I was waiting in an engineering supply place today for an order to be filled and was wondering around the shelves looking at random things and spotted them. They were 125mm dia and could be mounted on a spindle, a cup wheel would give a hollow grind if the the blade was presented to it correctly. What are your thoughts?

The information you had supplied to someone else (Anvil Antics in Austrailia if I remember correctly) and passed onto me from him, was a big help when I was installing my hammer thank you Alan . PS my hammer is running very nicely Cheers

2:19 Now playing Watch Later Watch Later Add to queue Add to queue I have got my bike finished at last apart from some minor tuning, I am very pleased with how it runs I havent had it dynod yet so cant say how many horse power it has but it really gets up and boggies when it gets up in the revs. The rev limiter is set at 9000 revs and I have hit that a few times so the conrod is handling the pace so far. In the video at the start I hadnt turned the ignition on but once I did that it fired right up. The Burt Munro motor cycle rally week of the movie worlds fastest Indian fame was cancelled because of the plague covid so I didnt get to race it in the hill climb as I wanted but there is next year

I have finally got the polishing attachment made up for my linisher, I got the idea from Salem Straub on you tube and like all good ideas its simple and even better gives a twofer (something that will do more than one thing) which is my favorite way of doing things. I have used an SKF keyless bushing to put the pulleys on the motor and shaft as they are easy to change the pulleys if I wish and they never slip. The The screw that the mop is held on with in the pics is only held on with tape just for the photos as it has the wrong thread in it now as I put a larger thread in it to go on a bench grinder but it didnt work very well.

It got the better of me and I had to look it up, The pasivating paste has Hydroflouric acid, Nitric acid and Sulfuric acid in it

I have seen 316 and 304 SS rust before in corrosive atmospheres like in industry and the sea and I believe that its caused by the stainless not having its protective oxide cover established properly. This is done by using a pasivating paste after fabrication and its really nasty stuff and you have to be VERY careful with its use but the SS can be a bit fussy sometimes and even if you work with it on a steel bench or use a grinding wheel that is not one for stainless it can embed small pieces of steel into the surface with causes a Galvanic corrosion to start which stops the oxide forming and it will rust

Good to see you are making progress on the foundations and congrats on the impending fatherhood, Just a word of advise DO NOT let your wife figure out what caused it LOL not nessasarly the result but the cause I am talking about

Yes well I suppose those are some of the major bits but I have made the Fuel tank, chromalloy Frame, Aluminum Swing arm, Conrod, Titanium exhaust and alot of other things in the cylinder head and crank shaft have been modified alot. I have wanted to do this for over 12 years and have been making it for 5 years but have made the most progress over the last 18 months or so

I am buliding my version of a Yamaha HL500 and its getting close to finished. My goal is to race it at the Burt Munro hill climb in Feburary next year and a good mate is going to race it in the street race of the Munro as well. I have made everything except the engine, wheels, and suspension. and seat/guards

0:35 Now playing Watch later Add to queue Its been a while since I have posted anything but here is the making of the tooling and a video of using it, the internal former was made from 1045 and heat treated to make it hard so the stainless steel work piece doesnt mark it and the external former was made from Bissalloy 400. The end cap was going to be made from 1.2mm thick 304 stainless but it was to heavy so I changed it to 0.9mm 304 but had to take up some clearance with paper to get rid of some wrinkles. The internal former was cut from a bar that was 130mm in dia and then I cut the sides off in the bandsaw then removed the corners progresivly smaller then finished up with the linisher to an oval shape then in the lathe as per photos.

Greebe that really hit the nail on the head, sometimes if things are too cheap people wont buy it as it has less value and as I get older and less tollerant of Idiots and time wasters my attitude can get very blunt but it can be very liberating. With stuff made as a crafted item then charge as much as you can get away with and dont feel bad about it.

Cheers Frosty yes I am a bit dranged LOL The plan is to havew it finished in a few months, there is still alot to do but I am getting there. The engine is being the victim of all the things that I want to try with a motor and I am going to race it in the Bert Munro motor cycle rally hill climb next Feburary as long as it hasnt blown up and goes and handles OK.

The conrod is all done it has been crack tested at three different times after the heat treatment cycles which were done by a profesional heat treatment place and the main bearing surface has been carburised and hardened then ground to close to the final size then honed to the finished size. The small end has had a aluminum brone bush shrunk in using liquid nitrogen and I used the remaining nitrogen to give it a backyard cryogenic treatment until it had all evaporated. When the rod bigend was carburised the rest of the rod was masked with a type of ceramic coating so it only has the high carbon case where its required, The rod was forged from EN39B steel. I have also forged a new kick starter lever as I couldnt get one the shape I needed, Its the middle one in the 2nd and 3rd pics and fitted to the bike in the last. Its forged from 4340 steel, I am buliding my version of a Yamha HL 500 replica and I am making the whole bike from scratch

This is a comon problem with log splitters and I have found this out myself but the canister type filter problem is caused by the sudden flow spike when the system is at or near its max and the pressure is suddenly released and there is a very high flow for a short period of time which the filter and bypass cannot deal with. The best way to stop this is by using an in tank type filter and when an excess flow is put down the return all it does is lift the filter off its seat inside the tank and lets the excess bypass the filter. This is why the filter is spring loaded. What I did with my log splitter is made a big washer to fit the bottom of the filter and a strap that goes over the top of the inlet/outlet part of the filter and clamped it all togetter with some threaded rod

Thats very nicely done, I have one of those on my mental to do list

Wow both the head and tractor are very nice, I like them alot Cheers

LOL that went off on tangent quickly

Phenolic Plastic that has a reinforcing mat in it is tough stuff and I would venture that it is way better than the often used UHMWP ( white chopping board ) as its often used for bearings and gears and if well lubed lasts along time. Bronze would even better but if you want to use what you have I would say go for it

I have finally got Colin mounted in the garden, He has been christened Colin just because it amusses me and a bit of a nod to the Black Adder as thats the sort of name the Rowan Atkinson would give it

Yes Hotrods and dirt bikes

I used most of those but there was alot of cutting shapes from solid, quite alot of cold bending and shaping in the hyd press, Mig welding then grinding I was going to let it rust but its turned out much better than I hoped so now thinking of getting it shot blasted and Zinc sprayed

This is made from some eight inch or 200mm pipe, I saw some of these in someones garden made from polystyrene and thought I could make that from pipe so I did and it got me off the hook for a present

Very nice work

My large linisher is fixed speed and has a 220mm Dia drive wheel with 50Hz gives 2750 rpm with a 2 pole motor that gives 1900 meters per Min so it really fizzs around and with 60 grit Zirconated belts can really remove lots of material. But my smaller knife making linisher is on a VSD and goes from 270 to 5000 rpm with a 100mm Dia drive wheel which gives 84 to 1570 meters per min so that gives a range of speeds So as others have suggested you could set up a couple of cone pulleys to give you a better surface speed for light or heavy work

This is a project just for fun to hang on the wall forged from some digger track spring. It weighs 5Lb or 2.5Kg, It may not get any more finished than this but it may get a Jara wood handle