skyforgemetalworks

Ric - Yea, I saw that. I like it a lot

gazz - I did a residency with albert and I was just visiting him last week actually. Jesse james bought his twister in which he used an elevator motor for

zip - I was there last week and they still dont know exactly what's going on. Everything is still up in the air from what I was told. 

I'm not sure why some of you assume I want to twist 2 inch square cold. I never stated that. I also didnt state that I would do it hot, so I apologize. 

I dont really need a twisting machine, but I've been seeing a lot of motors around places lately. If I can get a 120/240 motor for cheap, it's one less thing to worry about

Has anyone built a motorized twisting machine? I'm considering building one, but I'm not well versed in what motor kr motor/gearbox combo I would need. I'd like it to be able to twist up to 2 inch square. 

Hey everyone,

Im looking for people who make dies for my 50lb little giant. I'm also wondering if it is cheaper to have them made than buy them. Any thoughts, suggestions? I know of the littlegianthammer.com site, but also just browsing around. 

Thank you so much! We have to get together on a class! 

Thank you all so much for your help! I greatly appreciate it. I am looking into my site, prices, and markets a lot deeper and with more precision. I am taking all of your opinions into account and making adjustments where they need to be made! Thank you all!

Thanks for the compliments! I have done gates and railings, but that is not really my thing. I do that stuff for people located close to me, but not for Pittsburgh or any major populated area around. When I did try to compete, I get blown out by custom railing companies around the greater metropolis area. Basically, some blacksmiths got together with some welders a while back and pretty much have a lock on the railing market because they set their shop up to do just that and only that. I mean, I've only been in business for 2 years. I don't feel like that is enough time to be established in any of the areas, especially one less common like blacksmithing. From the responses that I've gotten so far, it looks like I'm doing the right stuff, but I just need to give it more time all the way around. How much time is what I'm wondering.

23 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said:

Any chance of getting your stuff in at Tamarack Crafts Center?

Yes, I went to a jury session for my sculptures and I was told that they wanted me but my sculptures weren't kid friendly. I can understand that, but when they said that my sculptures would be placed on the floor, I decided the fine art section wasn't a go. My juror told me to make hooks and he would jury me in. However, they have new rules that were brought to our attention only after we showed up for the session. These rules include only purchasing a maximum of $250 dollars worth of product, and they want a strict 50$ off your retail. They want items such as bottle openers and hooks, and that is fine, but they don't order enough of them because every blacksmith that is in the Tamarack sells hooks and bottle openers to them. It also seems like a seniority type thing too.

11 hours ago, No.4shot said:

Do you use social media?  Something besides you website.  Instagram would be great.  Takes time to build a following though.

Social media is a must these days, and the icon links on my website will take you straight there.

11 hours ago, JME1149 said:

I checked out your website and thought it looked good. You've got a nice mix of basic tooling to the artistic creations. Layout and photography looks professional.

If you want to get into the tool market, I'd suggest using this slow period to build up some inventory and schedule a trip out to SOFA this year. Could be a good venue to get your name out there and make a few sales, as well as a chance to get some ideas from others trying to do the same thing.

I will have to look into a trip to SOFA. I hadn't thought of that so thanks for the tip! I definitely love making tools, and I'm currently thinking on offering some classes around here as there is not much in WV for classes where I'm at.

13 hours ago, John McPherson said:

Are you asking for marketing ideas, a new line of merchandise, or general business advise? A link to your website would be a good first step.

I'm asking for opinions on it all and what has worked for people in the past. My website is posted in my profile.

I've been promoting, and I've been marketing. No business except for selling a few hammers on Ebay. I have been forging full time for 2 1/2 years and still have yet to find a bread and butter product to keep the studio rolling when things are slow. Does anyone have any ideas on how to get more traffic to my website, a bread and butter item, or marketing in general? I really love making hammers and tools, and I would really like to get into that market. It seems that the market for forged hammers and tools is pretty good, one just has to get in. 

1 hour ago, Richard Furrer said:

Well....

Are you sure it is H13?

If it was a tool then was that tool heat treated and are you heating quickly? Maybe the tool is breaking due to stress on the heat treated area.

If you are induction heating the part then there may need to be more a pre-heat prior o bringing it up to forging temp...this may be the issue in a gas or coal forge as well.. they a slower heat to forging temp...maybe being that heat back a bit into the unworked portion.

Many issues can arise from forging tool steel if one's practice is off a bit. I see many treat tools steps and higher alloy steels like mild steel where they do not pay attention to temp and working heats and then wonder why things go amiss.

I recall forging M2 early in my career and had a horrible time...never did get to under control and have not touched it in 20 years.

Forged some 4340 a few years ago and heated it too fast (no preheat) and the parts all cracked in the quench. Nice spiderweb issues from the center to the corners.

Ric

 

I have been wondering if it is H13 ever since I had it delivered. I ordered it from my steel supplier. It wasn't a previous tool or scrap. I ordered two pieces of stock. 

I also have had some deformation after I have went through heat treating and then used it. I forge it and once I've got the desired shape for my tool, I heat it up to yellow and let it air quench in my vise. My file will still bite it at that point and then I temper it to a dull red in my shadow and quench in water. Sometimes it comes out tough and the file gives me a glass like resistance. However, with my slitting chisel, I made a shallow point on it and the point deformed. 

5 hours ago, Crazy Ivan said:

Have you looked at the minimum and maximum forging temps for H13? 1950-1650 is the start and stop temps for forging. If you are staying in that range you shouldn't have issues with heat checking. 

I basically just heat it slowly in my coal forge and forge it. If my tip is yellow and I forge, then it heat checks behind my forging area. 

I have been using h13 to make some slitting chisels and punches. I know that I'm supposed to forge it at a yellow heat, but the past couple of times it has cracked and broken off right behind the yellow. I am only working with 1/2" round. Also, I was wondering if anyone has made center punches out of it. I would like to know how to make sure it doesn't break off while forging and all of that stuff. Thanks!