dimenickel

Larry was a great guy !  this is upsetting news

rest in peace bros

i'm a little late to this ..sorry if its a necropost

you can check ebay stores for some high temp elements ...  they usta have the moly  ( they also have some high temp kilns from china .. which i've seen other use it for melting steel on other forums )

not sure on the ifb's that'll handle that kinda temp...   your on your own with that as in my case, i'd only consider much more durable materials

it'll be lot's cheeper to make a propane melting furnace to melt an iron charge ...  myself, i get my refractory from vesuvius

don't worry about the uptake of carbon from the clay graphite ... it will happen, but your low carb iron will take awhile at liquid temp to pull it in 

? why not cast in cast iron ..    melt temp is way lower and much easier to reach !

did you try canadian tire or princess auto. found most my fittings at princess

hi

did you have any luck finding people in sudbury ?

thats a beautiful knife

love the look

tang with birdseye rivet and the checkering on the copper ..   Nice !

easily !!

you are just trying to get the plates to be in intimate contact with each other !    they stick and the diffusion weld will take place ... 

-then the more time your at weld temp, grain growth will sorta go through the weld boundaries making a strong bond ( i believe ) .. i usta have a great micrograph pic of this grain growth, really cool to see

you'll feel it under the hammer when the weld sets..  it will feel like the mass has become solid !  hammer it hard enough to set the weld  ( which is not very hard for me with a 4lb hammer )   afterall, at weld heat the steel feels like hammering play-doh !

well, this is just me..  and everyone has their own ways

why not just do, whatcha did

set the weld on the first weld heat by hand, then 2nd heat go to the press to run along

i do exactly that but with a powerhammer...  set the weld by hand, then do it by power on the 2nd heat 

for me, its about the perfect amount of material for making very handy small tongs !  i usually nip the head off the spike but i guess you can leave it at the end of the rein, if you want to show its origin

very useful material

2 1/8"

largest i'd go with mine is about 3/4 ... otherwise its long time to heat

go for a bigger machine ..  25 or a 35 would be ideal

when i inquired about insurance they quoted me the same as a medium size golf course !   that is the only one that would take me on as a client

your lucky you live down south !

haha i agree that is some " bird ----" welding

to be honest, i'd probably use a cutting disc  and cut off all that ugly weld and try and find the orginal crack... (if there is one ?)   i bet Mr bubblegum only did a surface weld and didn't gouge the piece out ..    then you could weld it up properly and make it look decent

or, you could use it till it fails...   just wear safety toe boots, unless you got some fast dancin feet

If the induction heater was imported and it didn't have a powersupply ...  it would be an incomplete machine ...    then you could say your importing induction heat Parts ....    in a separate order, have the powersupply sent ...   click them together and your good to go

just like ordering a belt grinder with no motor ..

well, i suppose big Gov't probably has a way of catchin that ...  they've got their mits in everything

if it were me...i'd find a way of sneekin one in the country...  they are wonderful machines

i use the 3 coil for heating larger stock and move it back n forth ...   and i find if the coil size is closer to the work piece, it'll work faster

-make the foot switch on the floor a tough metal one... otherwise it may get stomped

-are you using big relays ?  and are they in an easily replaceable area ?

-i mentioned it before ... that its a good idea to be able to easily remove the cover ...so you can blow out the grinding metal dust ....   unless its totally sealed, which would be epic awesome !!

-i'm really digging the idea of thermocouple control...   both salt pot... and for accurate heating of work edges to be normalized and hardened ...     that is an option that would appeal to many !

wonderful machines !   and after a short while, you won't be able to do without one  

a big bonus is that you can forge in the middle of summer during the heat... and induction doesn't heat up your shop at all.. !

and when you get bored...   make some damascus with it

- the weld heats are very fast, and forgewelds are quick

-heres a blade i made with some teeth  ( all induction ...  with one of Larry's 15kw units )

have fun

it does have health risks...    you have to be in good shape to use it...     your forge cycles are fast and it seems like you have to hammer like a mad man to keep up !

and you become impatient ..    gas forges seems so sloooooooow, you've got lots of time to pick your nose and day dream

i can say that having 1 induction unit is not enough...  i'd like to have more for different things .   i can firmly say that i have a fear !  that if my induction unit was to fail/break down, i'd be racing to get another quickly as its turned into one of the most valuable pieces of equipment i use

even forging damascus

cool

but be aware that tempering requires time at that specific temperature ...    eg) when making knives i'll temper at 450 F for 2hrs ...   cool to room temp...  and repeat

a short duration tempering is not something i'd ever trust

the ceramic paper alway ends up sticking to the piece that i'm heating...  i found it to be annoying

if you do lots of forgewelding .. ( like i do )  then i don't see the fiberglass holding up for long ...    just have to have a steady hand to hold the sucker

ditch the 5160 ..as it can be problematic to forgeweld

-also a decent way to make a socket is to get some thick wall black iron pipe and forge a taper on the end

- then make the blade of the chisel with a tang, and forgeweld that in...   make sure to grind to bare metal in the socket and the tang

-even more important is to bevel the end of the tang and bevel the end of the socket ...  you don't want a 90deg edge here as it will shear into the metal !

i can make a small diagram if that is too vague..

also, i made a real crappy long video of welding a spear socket  for a friend, and you can kinda make out the tang at the beginning of the vid  (blurry ... )

once you do it this way, it becomes very simple to do

that is nice, BUT when you advertise something and sell it as such, but it is not as described ... there is a problem

eg.. i bought some cpm 154 that was hot rolled and annealed ...   it was Not annealed properly, and had lots of forge scale deeply driven into the stock  (  = costing more in grinding belts and time )   why as with Aldo, this never happens

i do use admiral for PW stuff..   1095 and 1080 is good for that

so theres both good n bad

I have no problem with the last batch from admiral. I don't use stock reduction. I forge my blades.

thank you for posting that vid..   i enjoyed that alot

jd seemed to be breaking loose...maybe dually tire would help

nah

coal for the WIN !!!

yes, but barons steel is annealed and nice n soft  .. great for stock reduction and filing ...   But admirals is not soft and full of fire scale    .. so depending what you have planned, cheeper is not alway better

not an expert ... but go for the biggest kw ...     

skin effect...   yep the high freq heats about 1/16" skin ... but that quickly wicks into the core .... 

medium freq costs much more money ...  not worth it for just 1/2" barstock ... but if you have the bucks

timer... depends on your work...   if your doing production type work then maybe ...  but i never use the timer on mine

reheat is somewhat quicker...   heats fast to non-mag then it slows down going higher ...

also ... heating depends on the closeness of the coils to the work piece.........  if you have huge coils and a small bitty bar, coupling is poorer and heating is slow ...

if your gonna make one...  make it so that you can change out coils very quickly to suite the work you are doing ...  and go for the highest kw unit ...   you can turn it down

good luck

G

most of the time i just hold the bar, steady !     just like Neil says ... its gotta breaker on it and kicks off the moment you touch the coils

- but after your coils get old n cruddy ...  doesn't seem to be so conductive ..!   

think i was putting a piece of inswool on the bottom for abit...  it can be a pain in the butt, as the wool sometimes sticks to the work piece

still use the machine just about every day...    have to blow it out on occasion, due to the heavy amount of grinding dust in my shop...   i get scared that it'll suck in too much of that dust ...    been thinking of making a box to go around it with furnace filters ..

haven't burnt out a coil, yet...    and i use mine for forgewelding all the time... borax hits the coils.. sparks ...   and still their ok ..

if the machine were to blow up...   i'd have to get another ...   you get so XXXXXXXX spoiled

take care

Greg

let us know how it goes !

Watch the language please

make sure its very dry...    if it gets wet, it doesn't work well

i find cerwool, inswool, kaowool works much better