Steven Lancaster

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About Steven Lancaster

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    Minneapolis, MN
  1. Intermediate Projects?

    Sadly on this forge, the burners are just two holes in a pipe, not sure how I would adjust. I like the idea of rivets. I think making things consistently sized has been a struggle, so trivets might be a great way to practice those reps!
  2. Intermediate Projects?

    Here is the forge I have, the diamondback 2 Burner Blacksmith Forge. They sell a plate that goes over the top of the burner, but are sold out. Can I just put a piece of metal up there to adjust? That is a good idea. I will dig around a see what I can find. Also, a good way to practice repetition and consistency.
  3. Intermediate Projects?

    Hi Frosty - thanks for the feedback. I was wondering about that blistering. I run a propane forge - do you recommend that I turn down the psi (to run it a bit cooler) or just pull the metal out sooner?
  4. Intermediate Projects?

    Tried a new project and posted it to my Insta. I like the concept, required a lot more heats than it should have, but looking forward to trying it again! Here is the photo:
  5. Intermediate Projects?

    I have done tools, but will look into COSIRA! I have tended to be more on the functional side, but maybe need to get into more of the sculptural. Thanks!
  6. So I have been forging for about 2 years now and am looking to start moving beyond beginner projects. I have been doing a lot of bottle openers, fire pokers, necklaces, hooks, etc. I am feeling comfortable moving metal (almost always in the direction I plan for!) and finishing projects. However, lately have been feeling a bit stuck, doing the same types of things over and over. Don't get me wrong the practice is great and I am getting much cleaner results... BUT, I am also looking to move to the next level. I am hoping for some suggestions on some more intermediate (or advanced beginner) projects that would be good to build the next level of skill. I am still trying to learn to forge weld in my forge, so probably not ready for projects that require that yet. Otherwise, I have looked around online, but not finding a good plan for where to head next. Thanks!
  7. Dragon's Breath - Normal?

    The maker of this forge specifically says the ends should remain open. I created a video so you can see and hear it a bit better. Interestingly, the dragons breath on the backside is more orange than on the other side? Here is a link to the video:
  8. Dragon's Breath - Normal?

    5-5.5 somewhere in there. Sorry, should have included that detail!
  9. Dragon's Breath - Normal?

    So I just bought my first commercially made forge - a two burner unit from Diamondback. I did notice that it has about 6 inches of clear bluish dragon's breath coming out each end. I tried to take a photo, but it is pretty hard to see. Basic question, is this normal? Is there anything I should be doing to reduce that from occurring or is it just the way that forges operates? Thanks! Steven
  10. Round v. Square Face

    SJS - this is really helpful. The mental visualization of the various hammer faces really helps. If I am understanding it correctly - say I am drawing a flat taper (two sided) on 1/2 square. The rounding hammer should move the metal faster because smaller surface area (of course over the horn would be even faster), but will also have to clean/dress the edges more due to the side squish (technical term). Is this correct? I like the idea of a hammer with different levels of aggression on the edges. Might have to play around with one of the old shop hammers...
  11. Round v. Square Face

    This has been really helpful - thanks everyone!
  12. Round v. Square Face

    The face dressing aspect is really important. I struggle enough with that, much less the rounder face. C-1 do you find any advantages for the round face, or just like having less tools around (and/or can get the job done with just one)?
  13. Round v. Square Face

    As a new comer to this field, when I look around I see a lot of hammers with round or square faces. However, I am curious as to whether it matters much when actually in use. For example, I found a Swedish hammer in a round and square variety (see links below). Does it actually matter? I understand that a Brian B. rounding hammer has all the different angles you can use, but for a "regular" hammer, is there a difference when using or just a matter of personal preference? links removed Thanks!
  14. Steel for Mechanics Wrenches

    Thanks for the App suggestion, I will definitely download it! I am going to give the leaf springs a shot. Not sure how I will work them yet. I am an academic, so research and reading are my bread and butter. I will dig into what I can find online and here. Never worked steel with higher carbon content than 4140, so have a learning curve here. I might practice on the A36, but would really like a try a working set. I will for sure post photos. Going to get the drift material on Monday, so hopefully by next weekend have at least a prototype.
  15. Steel for Mechanics Wrenches

    This is very helpful! I actually do have access to some leaf spring (the maker space where I rent time has some lying around), so might give that a shot. I was wondering if using a thicker flat stock in the A36 might work as well (though will be overbuilt perhaps), so will try that too - especially because it is relatively cheap to practice on. I was not aware of 5160, but it sounds pretty ideal for this application. Any tips for working with it or heat treatment?