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I Forge Iron

Steven Lancaster

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    Minneapolis, MN

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  1. I was trying to decide between .75" and 1" by 1.5" I asked around and someone told me the poll of theirs measured 1 3/8 x .75. I am afraid the .75 will end up with eye walls that are too thin. On the other hand, cheaper than 1" and is less metal to move by hand than the thicker stock. Might have to play around with both and see what I like and can handle! I think I will be punching. I have been messaging with Brent Bailey on ordering a slit and drift that will work. I work alone, so not sure I can handle punching it. On the other hand, I don't have experience with forge welding, so hesitant to plan on that.
  2. I should have been more specific! I am looking at the Voyager style. I like the lines on that and feel like would be a good place to get started.
  3. I have been thinking about trying to forge a Norlund style axe. I would like to forge out of a single piece of steel (high carbon). I am wondering what starting stock size I should use for this type of axe. Of course, will vary based on full axe v. hatchet. However, if anyone has made this style and has suggestions on the size steel I should try, I would appreciate it.
  4. Sadly on this forge, the burners are just two holes in a pipe, not sure how I would adjust. I like the idea of rivets. I think making things consistently sized has been a struggle, so trivets might be a great way to practice those reps!
  5. Here is the forge I have, the diamondback 2 Burner Blacksmith Forge. They sell a plate that goes over the top of the burner, but are sold out. Can I just put a piece of metal up there to adjust? That is a good idea. I will dig around a see what I can find. Also, a good way to practice repetition and consistency.
  6. Hi Frosty - thanks for the feedback. I was wondering about that blistering. I run a propane forge - do you recommend that I turn down the psi (to run it a bit cooler) or just pull the metal out sooner?
  7. Tried a new project and posted it to my Insta. I like the concept, required a lot more heats than it should have, but looking forward to trying it again! Here is the photo: https://www.instagram.com/p/BZj_KfgAK1c/?taken-by=houseoflloyd
  8. I have done tools, but will look into COSIRA! I have tended to be more on the functional side, but maybe need to get into more of the sculptural. Thanks!
  9. So I have been forging for about 2 years now and am looking to start moving beyond beginner projects. I have been doing a lot of bottle openers, fire pokers, necklaces, hooks, etc. I am feeling comfortable moving metal (almost always in the direction I plan for!) and finishing projects. However, lately have been feeling a bit stuck, doing the same types of things over and over. Don't get me wrong the practice is great and I am getting much cleaner results... BUT, I am also looking to move to the next level. I am hoping for some suggestions on some more intermediate (or advanced beginner) projects that would be good to build the next level of skill. I am still trying to learn to forge weld in my forge, so probably not ready for projects that require that yet. Otherwise, I have looked around online, but not finding a good plan for where to head next. Thanks!
  10. The maker of this forge specifically says the ends should remain open. I created a video so you can see and hear it a bit better. Interestingly, the dragons breath on the backside is more orange than on the other side? Here is a link to the video: https://youtu.be/dDiG_U5ybT4
  11. 5-5.5 somewhere in there. Sorry, should have included that detail!
  12. So I just bought my first commercially made forge - a two burner unit from Diamondback. I did notice that it has about 6 inches of clear bluish dragon's breath coming out each end. I tried to take a photo, but it is pretty hard to see. Basic question, is this normal? Is there anything I should be doing to reduce that from occurring or is it just the way that forges operates? Thanks! Steven
  13. SJS - this is really helpful. The mental visualization of the various hammer faces really helps. If I am understanding it correctly - say I am drawing a flat taper (two sided) on 1/2 square. The rounding hammer should move the metal faster because smaller surface area (of course over the horn would be even faster), but will also have to clean/dress the edges more due to the side squish (technical term). Is this correct? I like the idea of a hammer with different levels of aggression on the edges. Might have to play around with one of the old shop hammers...
  14. This has been really helpful - thanks everyone!
  15. The face dressing aspect is really important. I struggle enough with that, much less the rounder face. C-1 do you find any advantages for the round face, or just like having less tools around (and/or can get the job done with just one)?
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