Jump to content
I Forge Iron

roosko

Members
  • Posts

    20
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by roosko

  1. Thanks for the kind comments.  I put the final edge on her and cut several beer-cases into confetti (not mine of course), then shaved the old arm hair. 

     

    Although I don't have very hairy arms, I still resemble what someone called "Knife-Makers-Mange".

     

    Robert

  2. Wow, it has been quite a long time since I posted anything here.  Here is one that I made just fooling around between letting epoxies, leather, and various other things dry or cool off.

     

    It has a slight hint of "Pukko" in there somewhere. Not sure, never done one like this before.

    Forged 1084 (about .135 thick on the flats)

    Damascus in front of handle
    Handle material is a piece of Walnut that I got from Don Hanson a couple of years ago
    OAL - 8 3/4"
    Blade Tip-to-Handle - 4 1/4"
    What say ye ?

    Robert

    Puke-O.jpg

  3. Another reason to attend hammer-ins, Guild meetings, and knifemaker get togethers in general.

    While at the Georgia Knifemakers Guild meeting a couple of weeks ago, a friend Carl (CRex) pulled out a handy gadget, and I couldn't wait to get home to make one.

    This tool allows you full-tang forgers to forge the finger groove while using the anvil face to keep the spine straight.

    You will notice in the pic that I have two size bars (large and small finger groove).

    I made mine with a bolt for the base in order to fit in the pritchet hole on the anvil. This lets me rotate it to whatever angle on the anvil face I want.

    Hope you can make sense of this.

    Robert

    11696.attach

    11697.attach

  4. Haven't posted anything in a while, soooooo........Here is a little Nessie that I'm working on for a customer. I still have to put a little teak oil on the stag, do the final sharpening, and make the sheath.

    Forged 1084
    Cold Blued mild steel fittings
    Sambar Stag
    OAL 9"
    Blade Tip-to-guard - 4 1/2"

    Thanks for looking.......... Robert

    Muk2a.jpg

  5. If you would'nt mind could you explain what or how you did it, the mustard/ gun blue/ acid thing. TIM

    Hi Tim:

    Take some regular mustard (the kind you put on hot dogs), and "dobb" it on randomly with a Q-tip. Let it start to dry (it will dry closer to the edges of the "dobbs").

    When it is almost dry (may still be wet in the middle), then take some gun blue (commonly called "cold-blue"), and "dobb" it in-between the mustard. Let that sit for maybe 30-60 seconds. Wash everything down with hot water and dishwashing soap. Take some #0000 steel wool to it and see what it looks like.

    In order to get a really random pattern.......... do it again by "dobbing" the mustard in different places (overlapping where it was before and onto where the bluing was).

    Do this until you have a pattern that you like. What I did then was to dip it in Ferric Chloride (available from Radio Shack as "Circuit Board Etchant") that I mixed 3:1 with distilled water (3 parts water and 1 part FeCl). This sorta helps to even out the "edges".

    The FeCl dips can run from a few seconds to a couple of minutes. Watch it............. Neutralize this dip with amonia (Windex w/amonia works fine)

    Back to the steel wool............... Just play with it until you have a look that you are satisfied with. You can always sand it down and start over.

    I hope this explanation was not too confusing. If I can help, just let me know.

    Have Fun........... Robert
  6. Well I thought I would have a little fun. Here is a "false-damascas" blade that I forged from 1084, then played with some mustard, cold-blue, and ferric-chloride. Came out pretty neat.

    Forged 1084
    Stainless Guard
    Sambar Stag
    "Real" Damascas Butt-cap
    OAL: 7 3/4"
    Blade Tip-to-Guard: 3 1/2"

    Thanks for taking the time to look.

    Robert

    fauxdamas.jpg

    786.attach

  7. Thanks for you comments guys.

    Bob H., This Bubinga was from a piece given to me by Charlie and Harry Matthews (Twin Blades). It is a pretty dense, but oily wood that looks great when finished. Problem is that if you even point it toward a belt sander, it burns.:D

    Sheath work is one of my least favorite activities. I usually do some kind of decorative tooling on my sheaths only because of the "Wow" effect. Some customers request it, and others just simply say "Wow" when they see it. To me it adds nothing to the functionality of the sheath.

    Tyler, I see L-6 used quite a bit in damascus, but for some reason not many seem to use it as a stand alone blade steel. I forges fairly easily and seems to hold an edge well.

    Robert

  8. Here is a small hunter style that I forged from L-6. The handle has a bit of palm swell.

    Handle Material - Bubinga
    Nickel-Silver Guard
    OAL 8 1/2"
    Blade Tip to Guard 4 1/8"
    My attempt at a sheath

    Thanks for taking the time to look.

    Robert

    L6-1.jpg

    L6-1Sheath.jpg

    683.attach

    684.attach

  9. Here is an order that I just finished. Sent the customer an email with photos, but haven't heard from him yet. Hope he likes it.

    O-1 Steel
    Sambar Stag
    416 Guard
    Nickel/Silver Butt Cap
    My Sheath
    OAL 9 3/8"
    Blade Tip to Guard 5 1/2"

    Thanks for looking........ Robert

    Sambar2.jpg

    Sambar2Sheath.jpg

    617.attach

    618.attach

×
×
  • Create New...