Jump to content
I Forge Iron

roosko

Members
  • Posts

    20
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by roosko

  1. Thanks for the kind comments. I put the final edge on her and cut several beer-cases into confetti (not mine of course), then shaved the old arm hair. Although I don't have very hairy arms, I still resemble what someone called "Knife-Makers-Mange". Robert
  2. Wow, it has been quite a long time since I posted anything here. Here is one that I made just fooling around between letting epoxies, leather, and various other things dry or cool off. It has a slight hint of "Pukko" in there somewhere. Not sure, never done one like this before. Forged 1084 (about .135 thick on the flats) Damascus in front of handle Handle material is a piece of Walnut that I got from Don Hanson a couple of years ago OAL - 8 3/4" Blade Tip-to-Handle - 4 1/4" What say ye ? Robert
  3. Another reason to attend hammer-ins, Guild meetings, and knifemaker get togethers in general. While at the Georgia Knifemakers Guild meeting a couple of weeks ago, a friend Carl (CRex) pulled out a handy gadget, and I couldn't wait to get home to make one. This tool allows you full-tang forgers to forge the finger groove while using the anvil face to keep the spine straight. You will notice in the pic that I have two size bars (large and small finger groove). I made mine with a bolt for the base in order to fit in the pritchet hole on the anvil. This lets me rotate it to whatever angle on the anvil face I want. Hope you can make sense of this. Robert
  4. roosko

    Nessie

    Haven't posted anything in a while, soooooo........Here is a little Nessie that I'm working on for a customer. I still have to put a little teak oil on the stag, do the final sharpening, and make the sheath. Forged 1084 Cold Blued mild steel fittings Sambar Stag OAL 9" Blade Tip-to-guard - 4 1/2" Thanks for looking.......... Robert
  5. Hi Rush: Oxford, Alabama here. I use peanut oil for most of my quenching. Of course most of my quenching is on knives. I have been known to add a little transmission fluid to the peanut oil. Robert
  6. roosko

    Faux Damas

    Hi Tim: Take some regular mustard (the kind you put on hot dogs), and "dobb" it on randomly with a Q-tip. Let it start to dry (it will dry closer to the edges of the "dobbs"). When it is almost dry (may still be wet in the middle), then take some gun blue (commonly called "cold-blue"), and "dobb" it in-between the mustard. Let that sit for maybe 30-60 seconds. Wash everything down with hot water and dishwashing soap. Take some #0000 steel wool to it and see what it looks like. In order to get a really random pattern.......... do it again by "dobbing" the mustard in different places (overlapping where it was before and onto where the bluing was). Do this until you have a pattern that you like. What I did then was to dip it in Ferric Chloride (available from Radio Shack as "Circuit Board Etchant") that I mixed 3:1 with distilled water (3 parts water and 1 part FeCl). This sorta helps to even out the "edges". The FeCl dips can run from a few seconds to a couple of minutes. Watch it............. Neutralize this dip with amonia (Windex w/amonia works fine) Back to the steel wool............... Just play with it until you have a look that you are satisfied with. You can always sand it down and start over. I hope this explanation was not too confusing. If I can help, just let me know. Have Fun........... Robert
  7. roosko

    Faux Damas

    Well I thought I would have a little fun. Here is a "false-damascas" blade that I forged from 1084, then played with some mustard, cold-blue, and ferric-chloride. Came out pretty neat. Forged 1084 Stainless Guard Sambar Stag "Real" Damascas Butt-cap OAL: 7 3/4" Blade Tip-to-Guard: 3 1/2" Thanks for taking the time to look. Robert
  8. Thanks for you comments guys. Bob H., This Bubinga was from a piece given to me by Charlie and Harry Matthews (Twin Blades). It is a pretty dense, but oily wood that looks great when finished. Problem is that if you even point it toward a belt sander, it burns. Sheath work is one of my least favorite activities. I usually do some kind of decorative tooling on my sheaths only because of the "Wow" effect. Some customers request it, and others just simply say "Wow" when they see it. To me it adds nothing to the functionality of the sheath. Tyler, I see L-6 used quite a bit in damascus, but for some reason not many seem to use it as a stand alone blade steel. I forges fairly easily and seems to hold an edge well. Robert
  9. Here is a small hunter style that I forged from L-6. The handle has a bit of palm swell. Handle Material - Bubinga Nickel-Silver Guard OAL 8 1/2" Blade Tip to Guard 4 1/8" My attempt at a sheath Thanks for taking the time to look. Robert
  10. Thanks for all of your kind comments. I just heard from the customer, and he likes the photos. This one will find a new home in a couple of days. Robert Dark Custom Knives
  11. Here is an order that I just finished. Sent the customer an email with photos, but haven't heard from him yet. Hope he likes it. O-1 Steel Sambar Stag 416 Guard Nickel/Silver Butt Cap My Sheath OAL 9 3/8" Blade Tip to Guard 5 1/2" Thanks for looking........ Robert
  12. The first Body and Fender repairmen were blacksmiths.
  13. Robert here from Oxford, Alabama. Part-time knifemaker who plans on going full-time in '07 (After I retire from my 32 year stint in public education) I forge most of my knives, and try to learn something new on each one. My website is Dark Custom Knives - Drop by for a look sometimes. Robert
×
×
  • Create New...