scottyp74

Ok thanks guys

Has anyone ever used vermiculite board to line a gas forge? I was wondering if it would work. I have read that it is good up to 2100 degrees. Im not sure if this would work or not. 

I etched with a homade ferric chloride. It was murratic acid I think 32% and hydrogen peroxyde. 3% and steel wool. 2 to one ratio peroxide to acid. I left it in for an hour. The neutralized it in water and baking soda.

8 minutes ago, Frosty said:

Unless you used strange rod to weld with it should be darker. You didn't use hard facing rod did you? Looks like a cable pattern to me but I'm not a bladesmith guy. 

Frosty The Lucky.

If that is how it is suppose to look then ok. It was my first try and didn't know if I did something wrong.

No I did not cut the welded end off. I thought I came back far enough to draw out the tang. I guess I was wrong. I really think the light color like that has to be from the welds from my mug welder. I did not weld in the middle. I just thought I came back far enough to draw it out and not be exposed to the welds. I will cut it off next time. I really want to make the patter lol more or stand out.

I made my first cable Damascus knife. I'm wondering if the welding of the ends to keep it from fraying made the light color marbling effect in the patter? Also how do I get the actual cable pattern to pop or stand out more? It stands out great right out of the etch but after I neutralize it and wipe it off you can see it very well. I heard that heat treat will make the contrast of the patter stand out more is that so? Any thoughts or tips are welcome thanks. 

Here is right out of the etch

This is with it neutralized and whipped off.

Let me explain more. I'm welding a piece of pipe into a drifted hole to make and eye. Will the welds get weak if I heat them in the forge after welding the pipe in?

Hey guys I was wondering if I weld something and then forge it will it make the welds brittle? I know that you have to weld your billets together for demascus. The welds are usually on the ends and get worked out or that part gets tossed. What are your thoughts?

Thank so much guys for the help. The customer wants me to make these and once we get a working prototype out. He wants to market them in North America, South America, Africa, and Australia. He is wanting to sell them for around $150 or so depending on what kind of handle you get put in it (Ash or Osage Orange). Along with a magnet and what not. I don't think there is going to be a way to make these for the price point. Even if it only takes me 2 hours to make it. It is going to cost him at least $100 a head for me to make them and that is if I get the start to finish down to 2 hours or so. He is saying he will be putting in orders of 50 to 150 at a time. I don't think I will be able to keep up with that kind of demand as a one man operation. What are you thoughts on this adventure.  

4 minutes ago, Frosty said:

A pick is going to take serious abuse you do NOT want high carbon steel, 5160 is max carbon and even then the impact zones can work harden and becoe brittle enough to chip. Flying steel chips are BAD things.

Jack hammer bits are typically a 1045 or equivalent carbon steel and they take more abuse than a mere human can administer.

I'd start with a coil spring ,1045 or a used jack hammer bit from a rental outfit. The Home Depot sells worn jack hammer bits for $5.00 but I haven't tried other places they may just toss them.

About the jack jammer bits, I have a power hammer. 

Frosty The Lucky.

Thanks Frosty. I was wondering about 1045. I use it for hammers and abuse the mess out of them and i have never had a crack. I will try that out.

Thanks for the tips guys. I have some Disc blades as well I can try as well. 

On 5/13/2017 at 0:10 PM, ThomasPowers said:

recycled Farm disk?

10XX covers everything from dead soft mild steel---like 1001 to more brittle high carbon steels like 1095    5160 is cheap and easily found and fairly easy to work---but it doesn't work like mild steels. Do you know how to work alloy steels?

I'm not sure i understand what you are asking. I use 5160 and work it a lot as well as 1045, 1060, 1074, 1084, and 1095. I use these steels all the time to make blades out of. I'm leaning towards the 5160. It is just tough stuff and easy to work. Also it is cheap and easy to find. I was just wondering if there was any other metals that might work that is not to costly and easy to get a hold of. It sounds like using 5160 or some high carbon 10xx series metal would work.

I'm making a detecting how or detecting pick. It will be used to dog up earth and cut through roots and bust through very thin layers of loose rock. 

My question is should I look at using 10xx series, spring steel or some other alloy? Im wanting to keep the cost relatively low. Any ideas.

Here are some pics of one that I have seen.

I made a 2x72 ginder and I'm using a a 2.25 hp tread mill motor. 

My question is the motor will shut down when I put the belt under a heavy load for a period of time. Is there a way for this to be stopped?

On 4/26/2017 at 6:03 PM, scottyp74 said:

Hey guys and gals. I have a customer that wants me to make a pick axe for gold hunting. I have the design all figured out. My question is what kind of steel should I look to use. He said something about 4130 or 4140 steel. Would 5160 work well. Or should I use some 1075 or what?

OK lol the client had another blacksmith forge one out for him. This other smith used 4140. The customer does not care what alloy is used as long as it hold up to the task. What would be a good alloy to use for a simple gold detecting pick axe. I just want to know a few types of alloys that would be suitable for this item that is all. I figured from everyone's comments 4140 is good but at there any others?

What are good  metals to use for a pickaxe?

24 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said:

Volume = Volume  (subject to scale losses which depend a lot on your skills and equipment.)

Now don't fall into the trap that "free" heavy stock can be used to make small items as the time involved in changing it's dimensions may way out cost sourcing stuff closer to the wanted size.

I often pick up scrap I find where it has a lot of my work already done for me---long tapers, knobs on the end, etc for items I make on a regular basis.

Have you checked for an ABANA Affiliate out your way?  Fastest way to accelerate through the learning curve is to get some hands on teaching!

Well online I found a piece of 4140 stock that is 12"L x 3"W x 1/4"H for $20 plus shipping. I was thinking I could make that the dimensions I needed. 

Yes I have a mentor close to me. Dave Edwards he lets me work out of his shop and give him a hand on some of his projects.

38 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said:

How large is your powerhammer?  Are you used to thinking in a "production" way?

I have the use of a 50lb little giant and a 20 ton press. I have never done things in a production way. All my work seems to be custom 1 or 2 item jobs. He is looking to make this a production setup.

Hey is there a formula I can use to help me figure out any size stock to use to make specific dimension item. For example if I'm make a 6 inch wide 13 inch long and 1/8 inch thick plate but all I have is round and square stock. What size round or square stock will I need to do so. Thanks for the help.

13 hours ago, Frosty said:

Use what he asked for? Too soft ad the axe will blunt quickly but too hard and the pick can chip and be a safety issue.

Frosty The Lucky.

He had a smith star making one and he used the 4140. That is why he was talking about 4140. He is wanting to sell these gold detector picks for between $110 and $150 depending on what kind of handle you want in it. I don't think we can make this and make any profit out of it if we use 4140. That stuff cost some $$.

Hey guys and gals. I have a customer that wants me to make a pick axe for gold hunting. I have the design all figured out. My question is what kind of steel should I look to use. He said something about 4130 or 4140 steel. Would 5160 work well. Or should I use some 1075 or what?

Hey all, I wanting to build a forge pot. I dont seem to work anything bigger than 1 1/2 square or round stock. I am thinking of making the pot 8x10 and 3 1/2 inches deep. Would this be a good size fire pot to start with. The fire I have now is 6 inches deep and is 12 by 15. It eats coal like crazy. It is just way to big. What do you guys think????

Im wanting to build a forge pot. I dont seem to work anything bigger than 1 1/2 square or round stock. I am thinking of making the pot 8x10 and 3 1/2 inches deep. Would this be a good size fire pot to start with. The fire I have now is 6 inches deep and is 12 by 15. It eats coal like crazy. It is just way to big. What do you guys think????

I made a throw together forge to get started. Now I want to make solid steel top forge. I have a nice heavy duty steel work bench I'm going to use to make it. My question is what size do I make the fire pit it self? I don't work anything over 2" to 3" diameter stuff. How wide and deep does it need to be? Any thought or suggestions.

I made a throw together forge to get started. Now I want to make solid steel top forge. I have a nice heavy duty steel work bench I'm going to use to make it. My question is what size do I make the fire pit it self? I don't work anything over 2" to 3" diameter stuff. How wide and deep does it need to be? Any thought or suggestions.

I will try to post pics of what i can 

After looking at some DIY wagons online this will not be bad at all. 4 hours for the wood work. 3 nights for the metal work and 2 hours to assemble it.

4 minutes ago, jeremy k said:

Heat parts to a dull red and block brush it till it's an even finish of your liking then a light coat of wax. - better get going - times a tickin'

So just a nice coating of wax will keep the metal from rusting up outside?