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Furnace1

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Posts posted by Furnace1

  1. Just wondering if anyone could recommend a decent brand of butcher block style wire brush that won't fall apart in a few months?....I have gone through so many over the years and none seem to keep their bristles very long and just keep breaking off. I'm using a Winco brand now which has lasted longer but still is almost half gone already. I do use it everyday in a production environment so maybe I'm asking too much.

    Thanks for any advice..

  2. On 4/4/2016 at 5:02 PM, VaughnT said:

    I'm having a real hard time understanding what you're describing.  I agree that the spare tire design is less than optimal, but it seems to me that it's a compromise to allow for a very small footprint and easy parts to source.

    Like JHCC, I'd love to see some photos or diagrams of your hammer design.

    I would like to see more of this also....I'm in the middle of a helve hammer build myself and have never been too enamored with the pulleys and belts flapping around on a rusty style hammer. That's why I have decided on the tire drive for mine where I can make a braking system as well, but this sounds interesting!...looking forward hopefully to pictures or diagrams.

  3. Anyone know who makes these power hammers? very impressive style and they look well made......Had some trouble loading the video from Youtube, not sure if two are attached or not. The one I'm referring to is the green one...

     

     

    Seems like Norm Tucker's video is attached as well for some reason and I could not remove it......not the one I'm asking about even though it is a pretty impressive machine as well.

  4. Should be easy to do.  Everything in your picture above the idler pulley is after-market home built, probably bolted on.  I *think* the idler arm is reversible to point down rather than up, will have to take a look at the one at work.  You might need a new belt depending on how far you move the jack shaft.

     

    If you would like some help with the heavy lifting drop me a line and I could drive down your way some Saturday.  Good luck!

    ​Thanks Judson...I would be curious to see how far down that idler can go. I'm heading over to take a look at it on Saturday so I'll have more pictures. Thanks for the offer of an extra hand also...may take you up on that if it all works out!.....you are welcome to stop by my shop any time, regardless. Still have to get to your place too!

  5. If you have a large enough timber base or a base with a steel plate on it, I would think you could put the same arrangement off to the side and redo the slack belt tensioner arm going to the treadle.  No one says it has to be vertical to drive the hammer.  If you're good with metal fabrication I think you could do something similar to what I did with my LG.  I did not want the motor weight up high on the hammer making it more tippy, and wanted to keep the center of gravity low.  

    I have a 32"x 36" 1/2" steel plate on top of a timber base made from 6x6's.  The motor "ladder" is has pivot pins down on the base that allow the ladder to tilt towards or away from the hammer.  The threaded push bolt pressing on the frame provides the timing belt tension.  I really like this arrangement, works very well and I will be doing the same thing for the 50# I'm going through right now.  Very easy to change the rpm's of the hammer by changing the belt pulley diameter on the motor or the upper one on the transfer shaft.

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    I would think you could do a similar side-mount arrangement for the Dupont.  Drive motor would be mounted down lower on the ladder (whatever height works best off to the side), V-belt running up to your transfer shaft that drives the line belt, and the slack tensioner arm between the motor ladder and the hammer.  It would take some time and fabrication, but I think it could work quite well.  ....at least in my mind it seems to...  ;)

     

     

    ​Thank you Black Frog for the input. That is an impressive set up you have there and I don't see why it would not work on this machine as well....I will post back if the purchase works out.

  6. I have a chance to purchase a 50# Fairbanks power hammer but unfortunately my ceiling height won't allow for the motor and drive assembly the way it is now. Which is considerably higher than the machine itself as you can see. My question is how involved would it be to turn all the drive pulleys and motor so that it is attached to the back of the machine down low? There seems to be a slack belt drive and idler pulley from what I can see in the picture. I have seen other Fairbanks hammers configured this way but from what I understand, they were offered that way from the factory. Either for a line shaft drive or a motor drive. Any feedback would be appreciated.

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  7. I have a question about the top plate on one of my Fisher anvils I hope some of you can shed some light on. To start with it is a 220lbs anvil made in 1920 that I had purchased last year. At the time it was covered in rust and I did not notice and problems after doing the usual checks and the top seemed normal . After cleaning it up however I noticed a thinness to the top plate toward the cutting table as you can see in the pictures which clearly shows thanks to the condensation the other day, the differences between the cast iron and the tool steel plate. It appears at first that the top had been milled down at some point in it's life but after a better look I'm not so sure. The first thing that's thrown me off on this is that the plate goes from about 1/16 to almost 1/2" across the span of the top. The anvil is dead level at 13" from one end of the top to the other. If it had been milled I would not think it would not have such a large difference in thickness going from normal to almost nothing. I was thinking perhaps this was a factory defect and that the plate had not been set level in the form when the cast iron was poured over it and then milled normally to finish ? That being said, it is one of my best rebounding anvils I have, all across the top regardless of where it's used and I have used it well, although I do try to stay away from that edge.... even rivaling the rebound on my 400lbs Fisher...

    Thanks guys for any input, I hope Njanvilman will chime in on this one...

     

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  8. I have found two things that helped me some time ago with this type of problem. The first one as mentioned by several others here, is to make the handle fit your hand. If you have or know someone with a vertical or horizontal stationary belt sander, you can adjust your handle with very little effort. I prefer rounding mine on the top and bottom and flat on the sides with a slight tapering from the head back to the end. Finally making sure my fingers just touch my palm when closed around the handle. Lastly, the most important find to me was using pine tar that you can buy at sporting goods stores for baseball bats. The Adidas brand at Dick's worked the best for me.  You will be amazed at how much better you can hammer when the handle doesn't feel like it's slipping and needs to be gripped hard to control it. These two things have helped me work longer with less fatigue and all but eliminate the hand pain I was experiencing. 


  9. I talked to Ray this morning and I'm possibly going down on Monday. He has about 39 anvils. Thanks again Scott I'm sure with that selection I will find a good one. I'm working on my forge now and bought some blacksmith coal at Aubuchons. I'm thinking of a anvil around 150 lbs what do you think?
    That sounds great Paul....I knew he would have a bunch of them for you to choose from. 150 pounds is a good size, I have a few in that range but to be honest, I prefer one in the 200 pound range. Not that you can't do just about everything you need to on the 150 as long as it's anchored down good. It's just I prefer a larger working surface and when I'm forging something heavy it's more stable. The first anvil I bought from Ray was a 230 pound Peter Wright and that seems to be the average shop size anvil you find for sale around here. Good luck and let us know how you make out....say hello to Ray for me, Scott

  10. Hello Scott. Thanks for getting back to me. Sorry you had problems from the storm. We were lucky here no power loss or damage. I did find a supply of coal at Jackmands in Bristol for 7.75 a bag.
    OK Paul, Ray's number is ...802-863-6480....really nice guy and plan to spend at least a few hours there. As for the coal you bought at Jackmans, that would be anthracite heating coal. Not a problem really I use that as well but, usually get a few strange looks from other blacksmiths that use the soft blacksmithing coal that I mentioned Aubuchon's sells. I use that to get my fire going and then use pea size anthracite for the rest of the day. Good luck with your visit to Ray's, let us know which anvil you wind up with...Scott

  11. I'm also looking for a supplier of coal from the Middlebury, Vermont area if you can help. Thanks
    Sorry to take so long getting back to you. Just got our power back on after the hurricane beat us up a little these past few days. I just came in and his numbers in my shop....rough two days here but I won't forget it tomorrow. As for coal, I buy mine at Aubuchons the store in vergennes has 13 the last time I looked online but you can order whatever amount you need and they will ship it to the closest store to you. I just did that the other day. It was $12.49 a bag plus tax and no charge for shipping.

  12. Scott that would be great if you could get his number. I really would like to get a older anvil with some use. I really haven't tried to get the price down on the anvil but I have stopped in to see it about four times. I wanted to get as much information as possible about the anvil before I paid that price. He has two others for sale but they have been used more and show a lot of ware on the face. I want to make my first anvil worth buying and use it for many decades. Thanks
    Ok Paul, I'll get his number to you tomorrow. Just my opinion, but I would flat out forget about that anvil your looking at given the price and condition. I bought a 230 Lbs Peter Wright from Ray two years ago for not too much more than that one and in much better shape. He usually has all the top name brands available in different sizes, so you can choose whatever you like and lots of other blacksmithing tools as well.

  13. Hello

    I'm looking at a Hill anvil that I saw at a antique store. The owner said it was made between 1830 - 1850 and the markings say it's 165 lbs. It appears to be in good condition except for a hair line crack on the side between horn and face. It's kind of hard to see as well as hard to find. I was wondering if it was worth buying and what it might be worth. He is asking 345.00. I'm really just getting into black smithing, but have had a interest for many years. I had a great great grandfather that was a black smith/ Fire Chief in the 1880's in Burlington, Vermont during my time in the fire dept I read articles in the old newspapers and city report articles on some of the items he made for the fire dept during his years in the fire dept. My father worked for the Shelburne museum and worked in the black smith building. I guess I would say there is iron forging in my blood and the time is right to start learning. Any way I want to get some equipment for myself and start learning. Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks
    Paul
    Paul, I live in Vermont also and know a gentleman named Ray Vartuli in Mallets bay Vermont. Not too far a drive from you and well worth it. I have bought an anvil from him as well as many other blacksmithing tools over the years. There has never been a time I've been there when I did not have at least a dozen anvils of all sizes sitting right in his shop in front of me to choose from. He is a very decent person to deal with and his prices are more than fair. You could certainly do better with him cost wise, than the one you have pictured. Let me know and I'll dig up his number for you if your interested.....Scott

  14. Another thing I love about fishers is the bounce. At first it was disconcerting, not hearing that anvil ring..............but from my experience, fishers have excellent rebound, and I LOVE their thick heels....
    I have seen my big Fisher bounce the hammer back at my not too experienced nephew so close to his forehead it made him nervous to keep hammering. I told him the best way to stop that from happening is "Don't miss"...LOL!!...he just needs more practice

    To help keep it from sliding around when mounted on a wood stump. The points would sink into the wood.


    im going to have to keep this in mind if i ever cross paths with a real anvil upgrade to my 55# Record cast iron


    My 300# Fisher doesn't have any nubs. Wonder why they would have been cast in like that?


    Align so that the top die would align perfectly on the indent that is the distinctive mark of blacker hammer anvils.

    The side to side traverse allowed the system to be used with either the top die's edge aligned exactly with the edge of the indent or the top die could be moved over and hit inside of the edge area.

    btaim I STRONGLY recommend Fishers for hobby smiths *especially* where neighbors are a concern! I wish I had a half dozen 100#'rs to use in teaching.
    I really prefer not to have my ears ringing after a day forging. Even when I strap down my Peter Wrights they still make much more noise than any Fisher I have.

    Sweet!! My 150# 1907 Fisher has the 4 little nubs. None that I recall on my 300# 1913 Fisher.

    I'm loving my 150#. It's a wonderful size. Congrats!
    Thank you, I agree it is a nice size anvil and it's going to be used again nearly every day!

    Don't recall that my 500+# Fisher has any nubs...
    I also have a Fisher 400 pounder that is my main shop anvil and it does not have any nubs.....probably doesn't need them at that weight!

    Frosty, if the ring of that Sodorfers bothers you, bed it in silicone caulk and put a magnet under the heel. It will sound like pounding on an oak plank after that!

    Furnace1, can't have too many Fisher anvils in the shop! That's a fine model you have there, and in great condition. Enjoy her!!
    Thank you!

    My 150 fisher has the same little nubs on the bottom, they do keep it from moving on a stump. I assumed since there was no mention of them anywhere that they were normal.
    I think they were a great idea. Certainly better when the mounting holes are cast into the base as well

  15. Good score Scott! I've owned two Fishers now, an 80# with no little lugs and a 120# with. Never heard any discussion about them, perhaps NJanvilman will chime in about the why and when. Everyone reading this should note that we are not talking about the mounting lugs with a hole in them that stick off horizontally from the foot of some Fishers, rather 4 little nipples on the underside of the base. Leveling feet?
    Thanks Judson, I am partial to Fishers and it is interesting about those nubs. I got the stand level today and bolted it down in the holes that the previous owner was using. Very stable and not likely to move around....it will be put to use tomorrow.
  16. Got this one off of Ebay last week. It was a pick up only down in Connecticut and as I have family down there figured if I won it would be a good weekend trip down. As it was it had been the second run for this listing and the seller had lowered the price but no one else bid on it except myself. Still can't believe no one in that area was interested in it. Not too bad for 90 years old, as you can see it is in very good condition except for the few chips on that one edge. I noticed something I do not have on my other larger Fisher and that is the nubs on the bottom of the base. I can see they would help keep it from moving sideways along with the bolt down mounting holes.....pretty good idea. Hope you guys like the pictures.....Scott

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  17. I wasn't doubting the power of trade, just voicing my observation that there is a lack of French influenced tools in this region even thou if you go 75 miles north people speak predominantly French and both the culture and consumer goods have a decidedly continental European flair even today. That probably underscores the quality and economy of English exports in the 19th century as much as anything.

    There was indeed some incredible trade going on in the region during colonial times; if you read some of the early journals of Vermont settlers they describe farming and trapping all summer then loading the highest value surplus onto their backs and WALKING to Boston (before roads) and returning with trade items that would help them survive the winter.

    North American Colonial era tools are very rare regardless of country of origin. I should have made it clear that I wasn't talking only about the French fur trade era, but about any blacksmithing tools from the 18th, 19th, or early 20th centuries. All those French speakers and their descendants and few French tools. Interesting, that's all.

    This is where everyone posts pictures of their eastern Canadian tools to prove me wrong. :P Sorry for the thread jacking Furnace1!
    No problem Judson, I find history fascinating especially when it's forging related. This supposition from many of you that my vise came from Canada makes perfect sense as my friend, who gave this to me and his family are French Canadians!
    Thanks to all of you who added responses to this thread......Scott
  18. Here is another vise that has made it's way to my shop. It was given to me by and old friend last week that said he was tired of it taking up space under his work bench! It has a very nice scroll detail on the spring and the joint at the pivot point is rather interesting as well. The jaws are 4 1/2" wide and unfortunately only make contact at the center. I will need to do a little work on that problem and of course, make a mounting plate that is missing. Other than that it is in very good shape for it's age........what do you guys think of it?

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  19. congrats Furnace you beat me to it by about 2 hours i had been waiting to see if i could swap my truck for something less thirsty for the drive it was a 2 1/2 hour drive for me
    so i am just glad to know that anvil will still be in use
    i thought it was a fantastic deal for a anvil in that shape
    Thanks Bigred, sorry didn't mean to beat you out on that. It was too good of a deal to pass up and I figured it was worth the drive. It will be used, no worries about that and for what it was intended for not stuck in a garden or yard!
    Are you going to the hammer in at the basin harbor club on the 16th?
  20. Just thought I'd show the new addition I picked up today. It was posted on Craigs List yesterday and 7:30 this morning I was on the phone. It was about an hour away but for a 240 pound mousehole anvil for $300.00 I think it was well worth the drive. Great shape and rebound. I have never worked on this brand of anvil and they seem much more solid and wider faced than my Peter wright I have at 230lbs. Pritchel hole is punched not drilled 1/2" and hardy hole is 1"
    Seems like a pretty good deal, what do you guys think?

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