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I Forge Iron

phabib

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Everything posted by phabib

  1. One encouraging thing about this tumbler is that it has a 1 hour timer on the panel. Makes me think the maker didn't think I'd have to run it overnight to get results. The manufacturer's address on the label is just a few miles down the road, but they seem to have disappeared into the Valley's industrial past. When the turn the intensity know all the way, you can see the media buzzing and shaking and watch it move around the tub at an inch or two a second. That's got to do some work.
  2. I was recently able to pick up a vibratory tumber and some media and having never used one I thought I'd ask for some advice. This is a small tub type tumbler with variable speed. The tub is about 23Lx8Wx6D. You can see the media go around in a circle and shake like crazy. It does not use a motor, it uses some electromagnets to vibrate the tub and comes with a 10A fuse so I'm sure there is some real power behind it. It came with a tubfull of ceramic rods that have embedded abrasive flecks in it. The rods are about 3/4" long by 3/16 across and are cut at an angle on the ends. I've seen suggestions to run it was some water with dishwasher detergent or simple green it. I also so some commercial descaling/anti rust proprietary mixes online. I'm not sure if its worth spending the money on the fancy liquids. Any experience with what works best and what the differences in characteristics are between the rods, or pyramids, or triangles, or other fancy shapes of media? What would be a good thing to use for descaling vs. for polishing? I'm mostly thinking of this as a way to keep my son away from wire wheels without me having to do it for him. Oh yeah, this thing is beyond noisy. It will make a great end of the day start it up before leaving the garage kind of tool. Thanks.
  3. Someone at work is loaning me his portable engine crane (cherry picker) so I'll see how brave I feel. Thank you for all of the advice. I'm sure if you guys were a bit closer, this thing would be in my truck already.
  4. On the broad topic of eponymous tools. What we in the US call a Heim joint, you guys in England call a Rose joint. During WWII, German airplanes were found to have this joint which reduced slop in the controls and made them more responsive. The technology was passed on to two bearing companies to build for the allied forces. Heim Bearing in the US and Rose Bearing in England.
  5. You can buy UV die that is compatible with all sorts of base fluids. There are also ultrasonic leak finders that hear the whistle of the leaking air.
  6. I have some waffle shaped rubber pads that are designed for vibration isolation that I am planning to slip under the corners to try to avoid busting concrete and digging. The hammer is about 60ft from a year round stream that runs at the edge of my property and it is basically fine wet sand. I think the hammer pushes against it and the sand just flows away then flows back. I was careful to limit myself to two strokes of the grease gun on the bearings. I've seen more blown seals on bearings from overgreasing than I have failed bearing from running dry. That's a good idea to measure the lube intervals by oil use. Maybe I'll grease with each new jug of oil or something. My only other thing is to take the spare rings that came wrapped in plastic wrap, put some packing grease on them, and vacuum seal them in a mylar bag until I need them. I'll post a couple of pictures when I get a few minutes. Wikipedia says " The patent for the Zerk fitting was granted to Oscar U. Zerk in January 1929, and the assignee was the Alemite Manufacturing Corporation[1] (thus the eponymous names for the fittings). "
  7. That's the thing. I only have enough headroom to either take the mill apart, or tilt it down. I don't have the equipment to tilt it down and roll it and don't want to risk being on the wrong side if something goes wrong. I got the other things in with just a cherry picker and some muscle. The equipment mover changed his estimate to $1000 for mill only or $1300 for all the equipment in the garage.
  8. I hadn't considered taking it apart and moving it myself. Its a Bridgeport style mill made by Kondia. Its what a BP would look like if it took some steroids and bulked up. I just got a quote of $1500 to do the move. That changes the keep/sell calculus a fair bit.
  9. The situation at my house is pretty hard. My garage is underground and the driveway is very steep. The mill had to be tilted and rolled in to clear the door and a couple of beams in the way. The riggers who brought it in, just pushed it back and balanced it on some rollers. I'd be afraid to be crushed under it if I tried that. I brought in the lathe, the big camelback drill press, and the huge TIG machine on my own, but I don't I could do the mill.
  10. I'll be moving soon and I'm trying to decide if I should take my milling machine or sell it and apply the money to an upgrade. When I bought the mill about 15 years ago, I paid $300 for a 15 minute drive move from the seller, with the seller doing the loading with his forklift. This move would be about 45 minutes away and with prices going up I'm probably looking at a minimum of $800. The mill is not in great shape, but its good enough for my needs. I've had some time on a Tormach CNC and I'd love to upgrade to something like that when the right deal comes along. Whatever CNC mill I would buy in the future would let me re-use all of the collets, vise, etc so I wouldn't include them in any sale. Any thoughts?
  11. FWIW, I was also surprised to only see taper in a single direction. I expected to see both right/left taper and up/down taper. Won't life be grand when we can 3D print whatever dies we want. There are people 3D printing metals, but I don't know if anyone is doing tool steels yet.
  12. I just saw a bunch of 1" square tubes welded into a grid and mitered to face the user. I don't recall if the different levels were staggered too. I should have taken a picture. In any case, it was a very nice setup.
  13. I checked all of the bolts for tightness, added some grease to all the zerks, filled up the oil, and fired up the motor for the first time. I stuck a block under the linkage to keep it cycling but not smacking the dies and ran it for about 30 minutes with the oil valves pretty open. First thing I noticed is I will likely need a foundation. My soil is what the soils engineer calls class B liquifactionable, which I think means it is a bit better than chocolate pudding. with every motion of the ram, I could feel the shock transmitted to the rest of the slab. This is with a cut all around the hammer. After a few minutes of operation, I could see oil running down the hammer leaking from the check valve at the working cylinder. I'm sure they saw the same thing at the factory when they tested it, and I'm a bit annoyed that they didn't fix it. I made a few toothpicks from a 2x4 and if felt like a good solid hit and I'm sure I'll get better control as I get used to it.
  14. Blame the site software. I had two long posts vanish into the ether. Short story is it took twice as long to ship as the factory's original commitment. The factory was easy to deal with, responsive, and honest in all of their dealings. I knew to expect about $300 in extra costs on my end, and it was about twice that much. I didn't realize how many different people need to be involved to get all of the steps done and they each need to be paid. The extra cost was because of my ignorance, not because anyone didn't disclose costs properly or raised prices after the fact. All of the people along the way who handle huge volumes of cargo all day long treated me and my one time 2 cubic meter load with efficiency and professionalism. So now I need to cut some concrete, do some wiring, and try the thing out. I'm also trying to move out of the house where I've lived for 30 years into 1/2 the space and I've got a new owner for my division at work and so on, so I'm not sure when I'll first be able to strike hot metal with it.
  15. I have heard of wrapping some square stock onto the screw, then drilling out the box, inserting the coil made from the screw and some brazing paste into the box and then applying heat to braze it into the box. The problem is, I don't remember if I heard of this as something that seemed like a good idea at the time or if it actually worked.
  16. I picked up on Friday and its now sitting in my garage. I am leaving the plastic cover on it until I get a chance to cut the floor to isolate it.
  17. The container got opened and my box into the warehouse yesterday. This morning I got the bill for my part of the X-ray check and I wired payment for it right away. Within a couple of house I got confirmation that it was received from the freight forwarder and that they'd be sending out the release. I should be able to pick up tomorrow about 20 minutes from my work. I'm trying to arrange use of a tractor with fork for Saturday to unload it.
  18. I'm not much on physics, but its actually gamma rays that are used if it makes any difference.
  19. I'm in some sort of customs limbo and no one can tell me how long it will last, or how much it will cost me. I got a notice from customs that my package was cleared and I could pick it up. 4 days later, it was still not received by the warehouse. I checked with the freight forwarder and the story is that my package was cleared after the X-ray, but there are 14 people's stuff in that container and one or more of the others was selected for a full search. So the container is still sitting somewhere, sealed up, in line to be searched. When they open it, my stuff can come out with no further questions. I don't know if my costs stops at the X-ray or if I'm going to be hit up for my share of the extra hauling, demurrage, and search expenses that was caused by one of my container mates. I have heard that the line for the physical search is 2-3 weeks long.
  20. The gap and cover sounds like a good plan. I know someone who owns a concrete sawing company. He once loaned me a monster handheld concrete saw that had a 20" blade powered by a hydraulic motor. The power came from an external pump operated by a 20ish HP engine. It was amazing to slice through foot thick concrete like you would through lumber with a circular saw.
  21. My attempts to say I'll take Alan's advice in the other topic he started vanished without a trace. I plan to cut a line around the hammer to give it a bit of isolation and leave it at that unless the pad its on falls apart. I can always lift the hammer and dig out later if I need to. My back already feels so much better from all of this avoided work. Thanks for the help.
  22. KISS is a good rule to live by. I'll probably overdo it a bit as insurance. I don't know anything about the slab it will be sitting on, so I'll play it safe and make a cut around the hammer and pour a deeper pad to isolate it. I have some waffle shaped vibration isolation material. I could put some hunks of that at the corners. The manufacturer expects the hammer to be bolted down, and they even include the anchor bolts to cast into concrete with it.
  23. Thank you. That makes great sense. The massey system with the T bolts looks really great, but seems like overkill for this setup. There is a great video on Youtube of someone making the T bolts, the foundation and then installing the hold downs.
  24. About that foundation. All along I've been thinking that I'd buy some big anchor bolts like the like the Simpson SSTB and bury them in the concrete using a plywood template made from the hammer base to keep them in the right place. Today I remembered that Simpson's Titen bolts are just about as strong and a pretty much impossible to put in the wrong place since you can just drill through the holes in the base and then screw them into the concrete. Does someone here know how the Titens will do with impact and vibration? Thanks.
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