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I Forge Iron

desmato

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Everything posted by desmato

  1. Folks, I'm looking for a new 24" brass hinged ruler and am having ZERO luck. trying to replace a Lufkin 1085 but all I can find are "Antique" ones in the $60-$140 range. what brand/model and where can I find a new one ? Todd
  2. I haven't seen it mentioned to you but Charcoal requires very little air, WAY less than your megablower is providing ! Less air also means less fleas. A hand crank, bellows or box is the best for Charcoal (and don't use the pre-made briquets, especially for cooking) I have a homemade V shaped charcoal forge just like a Whitlox and even my tiny electric fan needs damped way down. And yes, you will chew through Charcoal @ 4-5 times the rate of coal.
  3. Keep most of mine in a heavy duty 45-ish gallon trash can on wheels with a flip lid. water tight, UV proof, holds 250 # with no issues and can be moved around.
  4. None of my current cars are on the road, so no to all the above. (66 BelvedereII, 69 Karman Ghia, 72 Duster, 74 'Cuda) But that's a totally different discussion which I can type all night about Not sure about the "accident" nor is it my business to ask, but I hope all is well. I will most definitely post the whole shebang once I get it to some semblance of doneness and in service. Todd
  5. You make a very good point. I know about the flammability of fine particles, just didn't think of it that deeply in our craft. Flour cannons are fun ! (nothing else that stuff is good for) How about this ?..... no dust collector and put the blower at the end with a nice polished 6" tailpipe and spark plug ignitor ! Can you tell I'm a RatRod guy ? Now to look up DIY Cyclonic filter plans and find a sealed motor.
  6. He said "cyclonic seperator....". Heh heh.. That's pretty much what I was thinking, although why would I need a seperator ? I can't imagine that much particulate or heat but that's why I'm asking. Also, I would prefer to have said blower inside rather than out. I can live with extra noise, just don't want the hassle or weatherproofing and visual. I have a perfect unused attic space that would hide all of it.
  7. Try this again..... The pliers are for the removal/installation of a dust cap on a rotor or wheel hub (Pre Bearing Buddy). the round nub is the hammer part, the V bits grab the cap between the flange on the cap and rotor, the flat prybar on the handle is for removing the grease seal. I have a set myself though not as nicely made.
  8. Sadly, that idea is a bit too permanent for my use, at least inside my current shop. Long story short..... I built it and use it as a mechanics garage complete with hoist. It currently houses 3 of my 4 muscle cars all in varying stages of restoration and until all are completed, it will continue as a mechanics shop. My biggest issue is that I also do quite a bit of fab/welding and now Smithing all of which really require it's own shop but alas, I am maxed out on allowable sq ft of building space per the township. That and money/time seem to be elusive for such nicities. I'm thinking more along the lines of a dust collection system for woodworking. A main branch with "taps" to each piece of equipment. My idea would be a small single wall penetration with the ability to moderate the position of the hood to suit the forge(s) being used at the time. Say by using a thin steel hood on a stand with a piece of flexible pipe to connect to the main line. That would allow the forges to be moved around to better find an optimal position, or if available real-estate becomes tight. BTW, If anyone has plans for a hood similar to the Buffalo in the photo, that would be great. So would the actual forge. I'd buy one of them !
  9. OK folks, I'm needing to vent my forge(s) in the shop and can't puncture the roof to do so (aluminum shingles that took me a long time to do and serious $$$$$). My questions are regarding the feasibility and functionality of power draft systems. Here's a pic of an old commercial forge with a nice downdraft system that I am thinking of building a version of. Since the exhaust from our forges aren't all that hot, I would think a simple 6-8" duct with a booster fan should be sufficient, but I would rather lean on the experience of those before me. I have coal, charcoal and propane forges, all of which I use outdoors until now. The shop is 40' x 50' if it matters. It will be fully insulated and finished in the near future but has plenty of natural air infiltration at this time. I also have a 14" powered vent fan with elec louvers that can be used for the system but MAN that thing pulls the air ! It would evecuate all the heat in 30 min during the winter. I like the setup that Gote is using http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/41796-flashing-around-the-chimney/ but want to possible modify it by running the pipe lower and using a different style of "induction"
  10. DSW... please, more info on the power hammer in he photo !
  11. this is an option as well.... http://www.mcmaster.com/#drain-grating/=10872rn
  12. My main anvil is a 149 # H.B. Smith's style. not sure on the age but it's a one piece body with top plate. the numbers are hard to read as most are. Flat face and a nice erect horn, a few minor chips from previous owners (none from me,............ yet) and the typical H.B. tiny pits on the face from not being cared for in the past. No idea the % of rebound but I have bounced the hammer once or twice and nearly stamped my forehead...... That thing rings loud and proud, even with a chain wrapped around it ! just the right amount in my opinion. My other one is a 96 # Arm/Hammer, same age, shape, chipping but less pitting and a nice ear piercing song when played on the heel ! Some day, maybe a new Reff or Pedd ~ 275 - 330lbs, but that day seem further away with each sunrise.
  13. Works on the phone, but not on any computer I own, whether at the house on my 80Mb Comcast, or on my Verizon 4G Hotspot. Strange, but hey, so am I !
  14. Windows 7 Pro, Chrome and I.E. 11, no pics..... Mac Yosemite, Chrome and Safari, no pics. Oh well,
  15. Why are none of the pics showing up ? Am I the only one with this problem ? All I get are large areas of blank page.
  16. Curtis, I have a question..... why would you forge with natural Charcoal but completely ruin a steak over junk briquettes ? BTW, I have a homemade Whitlox forge, which is quite similar in design and function as your drum. It too eats the charcoal at an astonishing rate and gets nowhere near as hot or as fast as my coal forges. At least with every attempt I've made with it so far. I've tried near every amount of air possible from a baby's breath to blowing fleas everywhere. Still, just gets the steel medium orange at best after 3-4 minutes. never hot enough to weld or even retain a good heat. Plenty of fuel piled high, the only thing I have not done is decrease the size of the lump/fuel I use. That's next. **** My apologies to the Whitlox family for making a copy of their unit. I could not afford one with the shipping to Mich so I made my own. I am not producing them nor making more than the 1 I have. "Imitation is the greatest form of Flattery" or so it's said. Being a blacksmith means we make most everything we have so .......
  17. Thanks Charles ! (You to Frosty) This would make a great sticky ! A formula and "how to" for clay liners that all can easily find without searching. I know I've been reading/searching through posts for a year trying to find the top secret recipe.
  18. "I'm OCD and ADD, everything has to be perfect but not for long." That is me to a T ! Charles, you keep using the word "grog" but I can't figure out what that means, other than a sand like additive ...... I also am re-claying my pots for different size/shape fires. I was using straight clay from the yard in the past and it always shrinks too much for my liking and lifespan. I now see in this post that you suggest a 1/3 clay - 2/3 sand mix and also say "source some waterglass (sodium silicate) and use that to wet the clay and grog" Is this in addition to the sand & clay ?
  19. I have and use a blower from a furnace, NOT the main fan to move the air through the house, but the exhaust blower. In the U.S. we have high efficiency Furnaces that require an exhaust blower (Power vent/Induction blower ?) Check a local HVAC (Heating & Air conditioning) company for a replacement blower for a furnace. These are typically an enclosed semi nautilus style that has a 2" outlet. Most also have a great CFM and pressure rating and are extremely quiet. The one I use is ~ $110 U.S. dollars
  20. James, for one, I would LOVE to have a small side blast forge like that. wherever your journey takes you, do NOT give that little guy up ! Now, though I'm in the states, I do agree that looks just like a vacuum cleaner motor and the ones we have here are quite loud. I am with all the others here in my opinion, carefully remove that one (For reuse later) and find/build a manual bellows, hand crank blower, 12V D/C blower, hair dryer etc. then start using that beauty ! Todd
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