brian.pierson

Jim, In the upper right hand corner you should see you account profile if you are logged in. Click on that and a popup box will appear. It has two columns when I do, the top item on the right hand column is "my settings". Click on that item and it should take you to your settings in your profile. Then you should see the email and password button. My apologies for being a little too cryptic on the last post. I left these steps out. Brian P Try this link http://www.iforgeiron.com/index.php?app=core&module=usercp I don't know if it will take you directly to your settings page or not. It is the results from when I go to my settings page. I don't see anything specific to me but it is hard for me to be positive.

Jeff, Look under email and password on the left hand side of the profile page. BP

Forgemaster, Thanks!! I have been reading Lillico's Blacksmith's Manual Illustrated and it shows the same thing in plate 26. I have read that multiple times and just didn't get it until I read your post. Brian Pierson

well, I found that through a search and it worked yesterday... Never surprised when a link breaks. Thanks for the update Borntoolate.

There is a pdf of Googerty's book on line at http://www.evenfallstudios.com/woodworks_library/hand_forging.pdf. Just an FYI. Brian Pierson Could the spiral cones be constructed like a corkscrew? You would have to vary the size of the ring then pry it apart with a screwdriver. I know Hofi posted a pictured topic on how to do them a couple of years ago.

Dave, You have a point for a village blacksmith but this could have come out of a business. If the person was paid to make pre-fabbed horseshoes then modifying an anvil to make it efficient would make sense. If the person is paid by the piece then any time saved adds to the bottom line. While we lament the "defacing" of an anvil today, it probably would have just made good business sense to do it then. It wouldn't be much different than making different dies for a power hammer or even having multiples for different stages in the manufacturing process. Most of us (including myself) have a very romantic idea of blacksmithing and the village smith usually is the picture we have in our head. We tend to ignore or at least forget that there were industrial blacksmiths that specialized in just one aspect of the trade. We might go mind numb just being one smith in a large factory of them. Also there was a time when there were a supply of anvils were higher than the number of smiths that wanted them. If a smith could get them for used car prices then someone might be tempted to customize a spare to make their life easier. This would be in the 20th century when blacksmiths became mechanics and the need for an anvil in the shop waned. They would be more likely paid in cash and not barter. That all said, I can't imagine a small smith/farrier doing that for eggs and butter either. Brian Pierson

Dave, Just a guess but it would be the accent. Same as some Americans not being able to get enough British English accent. Midwest accents have been said to have the best for presenting spoken information as it is easier to understand.

Dave, I think you have the skill to start a sword and I think the mind to continue to learn from any mistakes made. You are right the epee is a fencing sword today but WmHorus is right also as the fencing weapon and the name is from the dress/court sword (fr: épée de cour or dress sword). There are various styles of dress sword through the years, but with you interest in ACW, the triangular blade is probably the shape you should look at. Take a quick look here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Small_sword Having an interest in history, the project interests me so good luck and let us know how it goes. Brian Pierson

Dang that was the thread I thought I had included. Sorry for the idiocy on my part.

David, Take a look at this thread. It will show several versions of the taper tool. Should help before ciladog replies. Brian P

Randy, Thanks for the answer. I am in the process of building out my shop at my brothers. I am planning on putting my forge perpendicular to the wall and doing a hofi style exhaust hood. I plan on putting the forge about 12 inches away from the wall but it is not block. I am going to use cement board to help cut down on the heat transfer. Brian Pierson

Matto, Thanks, went back and looked again... Doo should have been a clue there.

Randy, Do you find having the forge, next to the wall like you do, to limit the length of the projects you can work on? Or am I misreading the diagram? Brian P

Thomas, I agree with your thinking that the plates are not lapped correctly. I went and looked at the Pembridge Great Helm that this one is modeled after. The original has the same construction as doner has. Doner765 Did your patterns show the holes? Are the holes harder drill now that the plates have been rounded out and fitted together? Brian Pierson

Mark Aspery has a YouTube video for making a round ball on the end of a rod. The ball is then used to make a swage set. The ball part of the video should help too. Brian Pierson

Smithy1, It would depend on the actually metal that the object was made from. Historically, the body would be made from wrought iron and the edge would be made from steel that could be hardened. The axes on that website are made from low carbon steel(1018) and the edge from 1075. The body is softer than the chisels used to lay down the pattern so the chisel will cut the pattern. That is the only example I can definitely talk to. Below is a picture of an axe that had a design applied like the potter website shows. This is an artifact from the viking age. Brian Pierson

smithy1, here are a few citations for you that might be interesting the first two describe the undercutting that Ian is talking about http://www.seekyee.c...laytutorial.htm http://www.hurstwic...._hilt_inlay.htm The last one is a rather long discussion on medieval axes by a smith out on the west coast. Check the last page as there is a different way to to do inlay.(I believe)I take that back, the author calls it an overlay I went looking for better description but found nothing concrete. http://forums.dfoggk...9330ec08099d2ce Good luck and let us know what you end up doing. Brian Pierson edited to add info about last site.

how long did the piece start out? I know I can't do it in one heat but curious to see where it started. It might be a good warm up exercise. Brian Pierson

I had it bookmarked because I want to build one of those to use at my shop for the windows in it.

Take a look at this topic for more discussion on this.

Take a look at this topic. You can make a clip with two of them to hold the cards between. Brian P

Not to hi-jack the thread but what epoxy would you use to secure the threaded rod? I have a power hammer that I want to secure to the floor and I had planned on using anchors that are hammered into the drilled holes of the concrete pad. Open to suggestions. Thanks I like the stand ironsmith Brian Pierson

There is an ABANA chapter closer to you. Take a look at their website. It might help. http://www.illinoisblacksmith.org/ Brian Pierson

take a look here for one of the threads on frozen slack tubs. a lot of good ideas and one that might work for you. Mod note: Link removed do threads being merged

Is this the Challenger?