brian.pierson

Brian, Would you consider hard facing the anvil with welding rod. I was wondering if that would help keep down the dents from the students after I read the process the Gunthers put out about fixing older anvils. I am just thinking out loud here. Thanks for the info so far though.

Brian, Thanks for the dimensions. That answered most of the reasons I asked for the picture. I would think that the struck end should be longer than the thickness of the anvil being punched so the drift will disengage when driven through. How important is the leading taper length if you are driving into a drilled hole? Is the taper close to what you use on your hammer drifts for the leading edge? Quick question on the drift's metal, 4140 or 1045 or... ? Thanks again. Brian Pierson

Lyle, I was wondering if you have or can get a picture of the drift you three used for the striking anvil? I am curious about the profile and length. I have seen the anvil that Brian used for his demo tour and am thinking of one to help make bottom tools for my Fisher. It has a 1.5 hardy hole but I want to be able to set the striker up outside with my portable forge so there is more room to strike around. Thanks Brian Pierson

Iron City has a 6 pointed star logo

Here is a set of plans that a smith in Switerland drew up and used to build a (k)rusty style hammer with. It is in metric sizing but easy enough to convert. http://www.ferrumdg.com/en/knives-swords/know-how/288-krusty-the-mechanical-powerhammer I don't know if you can do it for under $200 but it is a starting spot for you to decide from. Brian Pierson

Dogsoldat and all, Looks like Blackwell's book is on-line at the site below. the site says it is posted with the writer's permission. http://www.arador.com/construction/basicarmouring.html You have to look under the techniques and tutorials on the left hand side if this does not take you straight to the page. Also there is a getting started article on the site. I would suggest most of us read the beginning section. It does describe something I have seen on this forum since I joined. It doesn't matter if it is armor or blacksmithing, there are some definite truths for beginners. Brian Pierson

I believe this is what Brian Brazeal is talking about when he talks about how the hammer face can have different dies on it.

VaughnT, Take a look at this topic, Brian has some pictures at entry #12 of a punch that I believe MOblacksmith0530 is talking about. Brian Pierson

Ridgeway, This might be the video. It is more on forge welding than making a spoon but an interesting watching none the less. BP

If you have a morning, I would go up and visit the Saugus Ironworks. It is a national park and you might find it interesting.

Colleen, Thanks for sharing the anvil picture. It is cool to see something like that as we get something like that on a regular basis. They have been less commercial production than individual configured. Thomas, This is the first one I have seen with a sloped section. Chisel production over knife maybe? Maybe I am just looking at it wrong. Brian Pierson

Dang, I will have to stop adding the "Arnold" accent in my head when I read your posts Thomas! Brian Pierson

matto, take a look at these in the gallery. http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/member/2636-philsdrills/ Brian Pierson

Brian, Is this the same people? http://www.ironmountainflux.com/www.ironmountainflux.com/Welcome.html Brian Pierson

Did you get the engine to run the whole kit and kaboodle? I hope so, even if you don't use it right away.

Man, it looks like a whole setup for a line shaft workshop. Am I seeing the hit and miss engine also? That would be a great find if you can get it all. Right out of a museum or living history site. Good luck, Brian Pierson

Trip, Take a look at this thread and at the ebay listing I added. While the forge in the ebay is not like yours. It shows a pic of how the blower attaching pointing on it. I can see the hole in yours but the other one shows the clamp. The blower he has can give you an idea of what to look for. I would think he can get you measurements of the blower. Just a pointer. http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/26525-looking-to-buy-forge-pan-that-fits-my-blower/page__p__271362#entry271362 Brian Pierson

muskiedaze, If you can handle looking at videos on your computer, take a look at this one. it might give you some ideas, while not a hawk but a bearded axe. brian pierson

Grahame, Take a look at this web page. There are hammer plans in metric at the bottom. He has changed the format on how it is presented. I have a copy of the the entire PDF from when I first found his web site. If you want a copy, shoot me a pm with a e-mail address. I thought I would make one at one time but bought a LG instead. http://www.dgentile.com/en/overview/55-mechanical-powerhammer.html Brian Pierson

Beth, When I was over there a couple of years ago, I kept a collection of coins for a project like this so this is from memory. You should be able to do a really nice coin mokume out of them. I did find that the newer 1 pence coin has a ferrous core clad with copper. You can easily determine which ones with a magnet. If I remember from the reading I did at the time, England doesn't have the cladding like US quarters so you will probably have to mix different value coins to get the banding. You have a wider choice though. I have a few Canadian dollars coins that I am going use in the stack also as it is a yellow bronze(?) alloy. I did the prep work but have not finished it. If you try this, please let us know how it goes and if I get to it first, I will do the same. Brian Pierson

Randy, While your question was for us, I keep asking it because I just have not been successful with scroll work. Thanks for the insight. I guess I just need more practice at making scrolls. The couple I tried just did not turn out right. I am have a problem getting the line smooth in the scrolls. Mark, I have the Cosira books in e-form and hard copy. I will return to them and reread before I try to make the jig. It is all about Carnegie hall... practice practice practice. Brian Pierson

Randy, I echo your question about how to make a jig. I want to make something like you have on the floor of your shop to fill a space between a fence and a wall at my brother's place. Either I need to find a new friend that can show me how to make one or buy a jig and go from there. Brian Pierson

Sorry, if this is off track but I found a #4 for sale on ebay that i thought I would throw out to the crowd. http://www.ebay.com/itm/RARE-No-4-FISHER-NORRIS-POST-VISE-Blacksmith-Anvil-/300677634521?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4601c899d9 It is missing the leg but seems okay otherwise. I remember reading a thread on replacing or repairing a leg on the fisher vises but can't find it now. Anyone want to weigh in on it? I am tempted but am curious what the reserve is on this. I need to finish getting my new shop together first and worry about the tools inside later. Brian Pierson

Years ago when I was young, my father built a lamp out of a wooden spindle that he got at a hardware store. He took an iron pipe that was the same size as the intended hole. He used a propane torch to heat it cherry red and then pushed it into the spindle. The smoke and heat went up the tube like a chimney. He locked the spindle into a vise so it was solid. The pipe would cool off during the burn so he would have to reheat. But the action with it was like the pecking that Phil mentioned. The pipe would also help get the charred/burnt wood out. The spindle was pine so the burning was easier than a hard wood. Brian Pierson

Do you have access to a big box store like Home Depot or Lowe's? I found replacement fire bricks for wood burners and such there. I want to say they were rated 2600 and not soft. They came in a box of 6 and were 9 x 4 x 1.25 inches. I am going to use them to line the bed of a new forge I am building. Brian Pierson