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I Forge Iron

OldIron49091

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Everything posted by OldIron49091

  1. Well, I see some new toys to build for my own shop! I used a taper attachment at a machine shop I worked at, and have wished for one on my Clausing ever since. Your design looks easy to use and relitively easy to build. And the centre drill holder building a index plate is brilliant.
  2. Thanks much for the tutorial... oddly enough, the anvil in the photos is almost the same shape as mine... I understand the use of the slight crown for drawing out, I will have to evaluate the area up towards the table, thats where the crown is the worst due to abuse. But the edges will have to be repaired as in the tutorial, because there just is not a decent area to form a shoulder or a 90 bend. The 7018 rod is common for me here. I think ive got 50 pounds of it.. But the other rod I may have a bit of a time with my local weld supply. Thanks Much Curt
  3. Hello All, I am new here, name is Curt and I'm located on the southern edge of Michigan. I am new to the blacksmithing arena (aside from the short unit in High school shop) , the screen name more comes from my interests in old metal working machines and my 1919 Port Huron steam engine... I have started to collect tools to start a smithy including this Peter Wright anvil. I can get it off the floor and up to the work bench, so I guess around 70 lbs or so. I have attached photos of the edges of the face and one of the horn, from end to end of the face its reasonable flat, slight crown side to side as per the photo with the 6 inch machinist's rule.. My question is, whats the best way to repair? Please keep in mind, I'm not rich. haha. I do have large vertical and horizontal millers in shop. Was thinking of a slight fly cut to even out the face to get rid of the crown. OK.... time for your thoughts. Thanks in advance.
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