HWHII

Along with my Miller 304 xmt I recently purchased TWECO 141I Fabricator 3 in 1 110V machine. It is made by Thermal Dynamics recently purchased by TWECO. I have been very pleased so far with the quality of this machine!

Hi Grem, Welcome! I live here in Tucson. We have open forges through the AABA first Sat. of the month during the fall, winter, and spring. If you want more info, or want to just stop by the shop PM me.

Frank, as always I respect you above all others! But I hate making tongs and I like buying tools! When I first got started in all this the biggest mistake I made was not coming to see you and taking my first class. Then maybe I would like to make tongs!

Welcome to Iforgeiron and AZ Travis! Look us up ( AABA ) we are a pretty active group and help of young men like you get started in smithing. We have a club shop in Glendale at Saguaro Ranch and it will start to open now the weather is starting to cool.

I generally do not supply hardware unless I do the installation. Using the hardware you mentioned I use a tool called a Gator socket. They come in 2 sizes a cover a range up to 1". They have harden pins inside the socket to adjust to the shape of the head of the fastener

I have tongs from Centaur, Kayne and Son, Pieh Tool ( Billy Tongs) same as Centaur, OCP, Quick and Dirty, and Peddinghaus wolf jaws. For me they have all been good quality tongs. It's hard to beat the complete set price of Quick and Dirty, but the Peddinghaus I have had the longest 16 years, and I seem to use the most.

So after finishing up a season working in a museum as a blacksmith historical interpreter. I can tell you with out a doubt the vast amount of the public thinks all a blacksmith does or did is shoe horses! It was fun to educate them what a blacksmith actually did do and what kind of work we do today!

I tend to wear a glove on my none hammer hand when punching or slitting or when I am working in the propane forge. No gloves in a coal, or charcoal except when punching or slitting. I wear gloves when running the power hammer. I think it helps with vibration. Gloves always when welding.

After 7 years of running my own business I grown tired of chasing work, dealing with picky home owners, contractors who want it tomorrow, who also found a better price and want you to cut yours, and the over head. In my case has been very low as I work from a home base business with no employees. So this year I decided to shake things up a bit, let my business set and go to work for someone else for 6 months and think about it. I am working as a blacksmith, historical interpreter but the pay is little better than minimum wage and seasonal. Love the job though, but it is 40 hrs a week so I miss the freedom being self-employed. Looking ahead I am planing on starting a product line like Ric has suggested and see where this leads me. Also thinking about moving my business base to Northern MI to lower my overall overhead costs. I have watch Larry business for several years now and have been empressed by what he has accomplished but his overhead is staggering. His tong line seems to be doing well which goes back to a product line theory. One could look at Grant Sarver's business model and come to the same conclusion. I have another friend who has a internet based business and product line but has grown to the point where he is having growing pains. Lots to think about in your business plans.

When I go to work in the morning, I great my shop and anvil with a " GOOD MORNING! " and brush the face of my anvil with my hand.

Try 1/4" 1018 cold rolled or A36 hot rolled in square or round solid stock.

Nick, did you solve your problem yet? Haven't been on in a bit. I have had a awful time learning to forge weld with charcoal. Like others have said deep fire. I made this u shaped piece for the forge I have been using and it made all the difference. When I am running this full above which is 4" tall 1" bellow and 1" above for a 6" deep pile. A charcoal fire to me can be tempermental. You can have a good welding heat and the next heat in the same spot not.

Wish him all the best!

this posting issue is a real pain. lets try #3.
 
 
That's not how I read section 2.09 in that manual.

I will have to go back and reread it ? Thanks for the correction!

Here's the link for the manual.
 
http://victortechnologies.com/IM_Uploads/DocLib_9757_Tweco_Fabricator_141i_Operating_Manual_(0-5145)_Nov2013.pdf
 
It has the same limits most 110v units do. It only makes full output when run off a 30 amp circuit. However the guys I know who have used them say it's a pretty decent unit if you understand it's limitations.

20 amp on this one!

Also Steve it is a DC Inverter power source. No AC or high frequency.

HW -- you have said what size rod you used - now what were you welding thickness wise / job ? & did it penetrate good ??
by any chance can it  tig aluim / Ac High frec
I don't like  110 V welder's at all have used a few Lincoln miller to name some
TWO under powered unless you are welding sheet metal or thin stuff ! BUT ? things change
I am a 220 V welder LOL since 1976
STEVE'S Welding & Fab

Well Steve it is what it is, a good quality power source. Generally it will handle 3/16" material, 1/4" on the outside. You get 90 amps for stick, 120 amps for TIG, and a 140 amps for MIG. For stick I usually run 3/32" 7018 and it handles it just fine. .030 for hardwire and .035 for self shielded FCAW and a 20% duty cycle at max amperage. Remember what this machine is made for, hobbyist, and light industrial use. As in anything you do there is a right and wrong tool for a job!

So being away from my shop for several months working this year, I decide I needed to buy a 110v power source for small projects in my portable shop not wanting to haul the Trailblazer and all the gear. My blood has always run blue and have been fond of Lincoln products too. I happen to see a TWECO Fabricator 141i and it caught my eye. It has all the quality I have come to expect from a professional unit. In my career I been exposed to a variety of 110v units, buying my first one in the late 1980's, a Italian made unit which left a lot to be desired. This unit is capable of MIG, TIG and stick. It has arc control, inductance and remote on off for the TIG. I had a little job to do today using 3/32 7018 and it has the nicest arc. I bought my unit from a on line welding supplier for a little over $700.00 with the TIG package and have seen them under $600.00 without. If you are looking for a 110v unit this one deserves a good look!

Thomas, thank you for that correction, as always! I am in a area like you were we can't just run down to the steel supplier to pick material. It would be easier to just order the material in and have stock on hand. I did hit a antique store the other day and found a good supply of hay rake tines and this might do for the rest of the season.

Seems like 1095 is pretty popular. I need to use new stock because it will become a item to sell in the visitors center where I work. They would like to put a kit together with flint, char cloth in a tin and I will do a demo on how to use it. Could be making alot. Going to go with a basic 1800 century design. Thanks again everyone!

Done some more research. Anyone ever try new O1 tool steel? Should work great just need to find a good source. Any help there?

I have been looking through the archives on striking steels and have found alot of good info on used steel items for striking steels. Does anyone have suggestions on new affordable material for use in making striking steels?

I am hoping to make my first SOFA event this year. I have heard it is one of the best events to attend!

So this metal horse shoe piece has been the answer to all my problems along with fixing some minor leaks in the bellows. I would have liked to make it out of heavier stock but this will work fine. It allows me to better control, consintrate the air blast, size and depth of the fire. The rocks around the sides keeps it in place. If I need a bigger fire I just slide it back. If need to slide a long piece in, just pick up the back and slide a flat rock underneath. I have made forge welds now on 1/2" and am now able to start making chain!

When you say river rock you don't mean rocks out of a river do you Harold? Rocks that have been laying in water or even wet ground can explode when heated much above boiling temp.
 
Sounds like you have a good shape for the duck's nest. I'm surprised the fire is so touchy though. It sounds like the working zones are really narrow. That hasn't been my experience with charcoal. It makes me wish I could light a fire in that forge and see what I don't get about it.
 
Frosty The Lucky.

Frosty, river rock is just a term, I have also heard them refered to as field stones. Yes the the are smooth have not had them explode but they do crack after time. At this point they will not let me use fire brick. I am thing about making a steel u shaped piece out 1/2" x 4" mild steel and stacking rocks aroun the outside. The work zone is a normal size it is just the high heat zone that is difficult to maintain. Found a few air leaks and put some clear silicone on the bellows last night. Can't wait to get to work today to give it a try. Which brings up another point. For sometime now I have lost my disire to forge, but this job has given me a pick me up. I can't wait to go to work and want to stay later to forge some more!