Eric Farrar

Ian, these are the standards for the BSA Metalworking badge as of 2002 - 4 options including sheetmetal, silversmith, foundry, and blacksmith. And I agree with you on the changing standards. I looked at the differences in some Merit Badge requirements from the 80's when I was finishing up my Eagle requirements and the 2002 edition... All I can say is, "really?" http://www.scoutingbsa.org/programs/boyscouts/merit_badges/Metal_work.html Option 4 - Blacksmith Name and tell the use of the basic tools used by a blacksmith. Make a reasonably accurate sketch of two tasteful objects to hot-forge. Include each component’s dimensions on your sketch. Using low–carbon steel at least ¼ inch thick, perform the following exercises: Draw out by forging a taper. Use the horn of the anvil by forging a U-shaped bend. Twist steel by placing a decorative twist in a piece of square steel. Use the edge of the anvil to bend metal by forging an L–shaped bend. Using low-carbon steel at least ¼ inch thick, make at least two tasteful objects that require hot-forging. Include a decorative twist on one object. Include a hammer-riveted joint in one object. Preserve your work from oxidation

Fortunately we can all still be merit badge counselors for blacksmithing. There is a "Metal Working" merit badge with two options to it: blacksmithing and machining. The book is packed up for my move this next month, but I recall the few skills to demonstrate in a single project include twisting, punching, rivetting, and I believe drawing out and upsetting. Popular projects used for this are simple twist tongs and candelebra's.

A beautiful example, both simple and elegant. What would one call the joint of the three legs/arms? I can see how to form it and how it works, just not what it is called.

Just thought I'd clarify one thing.... The cheap DIY method I described earlier is only an ESD (electro-static discharge) prevention measure; NOT a way to think you are safe when working on electrical systems. The grounding straps shown by Ironsmith and discussed by OddDuck are just the beginning of ESP (electric shock prevention) PPI. ESD generally deals with minute amounts of current but can be at high voltages. ESP deals with high currents - no matter the voltage. 1/2 an Amp can kill if it goes through you the (right?) way - even at low voltages! Just remember the 10% rule - gotta be 10% smarter than what you're working on or it will be the one working you! ..... More ramblings from the guy with certified mental defects......

Here is a really simple fix that I've found works great. Take some 12#-8# copper strand wire, insulated - about 4-6 feet or even less if you really can't find some. Even as thin as 14# can work, but I prefer a bit more protection. If your blasting cabinet is grounded, just strip about an inch of the insulation from one end of the wire, and wrap around a loosened bolt that is clean - just to be safe, I used a self-drilling sheet metal screw in a pilot hole on a cabinet leg. Secure the wire on its way to the gloves. One glove will do, but for extra safety, you can run a second wire for the other glove. Strip off about 3" of insulation from this end of the wire and feed it into say, the thumb of your rubber gloves. You will be static safe as long as your thumb contacts that wire. If your cabinet isn't grounded, attach another wire to the same self-drilling sheet metal screw but this one goes to ground somewhere. Some ways to accomplish this: grounding rod rammed down at least 8' - must moisten the ground daily if in a desert type climate.... Structural steel of your shop may be grounded.... Tie into the electrical ground from a power cable (this is just about the last choice for finding 'ground').... The static is a result of air flow and particulates being blown around... Ground can be the air compressor chassis or the generator chassis..... Basically what ESD Injury Prevention comes down to is common Ground. If you are electrically grounded to any type of Grounding Network, you will be safe. All equipment should share ground - that keeps an electrically neutral relationship between all equipment components and operators. Hope this was usefull and not just a guy with a brain injury rambling.... If I rambled, forgive me - I have a brain injury from being blown up WAY too many times.

K-Town.... Assuming you are US Military..... Ray Ordnance Barracks has a cannibalization yard/DRMO where you can take parts off scrapped vehicles. Also, every motor pool has a scrap metal bin - just talk to either the Motor Sergeant, a maintenance team chief, or the machine shop/welding shop NCOIC. They can hook you up good - often with cutoffs and other scrap from perfectly good known quality steel. If these aren't an option for you, check into a car repair shop somewhere and ask where the local junk yards are. Many repair shops run their own small junk yards as a side business over there. Last time I was in K-Town was 2004 so I don't remember any specific places for ya.

I saw these quite a bit in Army Land Combat Missile Systems that I worked on - Bradley Fighting Vehicles and APCs with the TOW missile systems, pre-ODS versions as well as on the first generation Dragon thermal night trackers. Good reliable and simple jam nut type system before locktite was very widespread.

Thanks to everyone wanting steel I am looking at an affordable move... And Vulcan must be looking out for me because I also got an unsolicited call from a relative offering up some shop space until I buy another house in a few years, so my tools will have a new home!

Moving time has come and I don't see the point in hauling my steel 2 states away then storing it for a few years.... And the wife says I have to get rid of it. I would much rather give it away to a smith than send it to scrap! Also giving away/selling tools - ask if interrested! I have about 30 pieces of HR 1045 around 8' long ranging from 5/16" to 1" - square and round, and a few strips of 1/2"x1/8" flat and one 3"x3/16" flat HR 1095 I think it is. I also have 4 nearly 1" thick NEW heavy truck coil springs, 4 sets of leaf springs, 4 20# (standard grill size) propane tanks, 2 full- size O2 tanks - 1 full but I'll use a bit of it to cut this stuff up.... I have a 63" long 3" square tube, 3/16" wall. And some odds and ends of tube and plate Shop stuff and tools (selling dirt cheap or its going to get sold at a pawn shop for dirt cheap): cabinets,drawers, New 25' and 50' O/A hoses, a 30 ton air over hydraulic bottle jack, a ryobi 6" bench grinder with spare wheels, a couple 4-6" bench vices, some LYON 8'x12'x3' steel storage shelves system, air compressor (25 gal tank?), about 50# of 3/32-3/16" welding rod - mostly 6011 5/32" new, but a bit of other stuff including cronotron cronocast cast iron rods..... 15" variable speed (belt driven) bench-top SKIL drill press, welding vice-grips,O/A welding and brazing rod, brazing/welding flux for O/A..... I have to get rid of 95% of what I have and am heart broken enough about that! I would much rather see a smith get this stuff than the scrap yard and pawn shops. If you want the steel, just come get it or I will cut it up and send it in flat rate boxes for cost of shipping plus a couple bucks for cutting time.... Just PM me - I have 3 weeks to clear out of my shed. Before we starts packing for the move. Sorry - forgot to mention location: Fountain Colorado (Colorado Springs area)

I've only come across a handful of metal-handled hammers so far and neither of the two types I've hefted have impressed me. The ones with fitted/shock-mounted handles seemed to all be thin walled aluminum and I've destroyed the handles within hours of starting to use them. The other type I've used have a solid head-and-handle with a molded rubber grip. They had a convenient center of gravity but felt unnaturally rigid. Also transmitted considerable shock through the handle - especially on cold work. As for wood vs. fiberglass - this seems to be a matter of choice among craftsmen, including smiths. Both have their strengths and weaknesses. Wood handles are easy to replace, cheap to buy or make, easily modified for a custom fit, and based on type of wood, a variety of mechanical properties. Fiberglass handles are generally very well mounted and can last years; can get rained on with very little risk of damage and quite often these handles have very nice grips. Replacing a fiberglass handle is a pain in my opinion, and I change all my hammers to hickory - I keep at least a half dozen on hand.

Which college in Idaho? I attended Boise State University before joining the Army then made the move from Boise to Huntsville after Basic Training.... Definitely won't forget that SHORT trip!

Laoich23, Fine looking anvil you've got in the works there. I fabbed mine up from 1 chunk of big forklift tine and 2 cut up tank half shafts.... I didn't have any oxygen for the A/O torch when I was starting so I had to cut the 3" round off and then rough cut the horn with a hack saw... It was a good workout but made the grinding work much easier and I only went through 2 hacksaw blades... What worked for me and might help you with shaping your horn is using a hacksaw just like you would draw round stock out with a hammer - square pyramid to octagon pyramid. Then move on to the grinder to round it out. Good luck and happy forging! Eric

I took a couple big thick chunks of similar leaf springs and made a couple stout hot cut hardies with 'em. Hydraulic press was definitely helpful in forging down the hardy shank. The edges took some real heavy hitting with a 3# hammer to shape 'em - just make sure they get and stay hot clear through and hit 'em hard or you'll just be moving the outer portion of the metal.

On the question of the spindle that contacts the tire, how about using a multi-belt pulley with grooves for 2-4 v-belts with either a snug-fitting section of pipe or a steel can welded over it to level the grooves out? Been toying with that idea while I search for a chunk to turn on the lathe to make a spindle with. Any thoughts on the multi-belt pulley with a snug pipe on it?

So I finally finished my new forge - my first forge is a huge beast and weighs a ton, so I wanted a smaller, lighter, and (of course) hotter forge for every day use. I'll keep the old one for larger pieces that may not fit in the new one. First, let me introduce the old beast; a single-burner with approximate chamber dimensions of 8"x8"x5"... made the housing out of 1/4" HR Plate and have regretted it ever since. The third shot of her is of her back side... Now for the new girl! She is a single piece of 3/32" diamond plate bent on a sheet metal brake then welded together. She is MUCH lighter than the old girl. Her chamber with refractory installed is about 17"L x 5"W x 4"H - Let's start with my first test of the dual burners without the refractory installed... And then for the first time firing her up - this time I had some problems; there ended up being some bowing in the top of the housing which caused about a 1/8" gap between the housing and the refractory... flames were following any available spaces and due to the extremely reducing flame that resulted, I got soot covering almost all of my refractory and had a flame that was choking out badly. I ended up extending the flares into the chamber to where they are nicely flush with the chamber ceiling. Fired it up again about an hour ago and still had a nice reducing flame, but it was no longer choking out and was relatively quiet compared to the first firing or to my first forge which sounds like a jet engine. At 3psi, the chamber was up to temp in under 2 minutes, and I got a 1/2" piece of 1045 round stock to welding heat along a 9" section in less than 4 minutes. These pictures are of it fired up at 3psi. All I have left to do is finish the high-temp paint job, add some feet and stock holders and I'll be enjoying this new girl's heat!