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I Forge Iron

Eric Farrar

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About Eric Farrar

  • Rank
    Junior Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Fountain, CO

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    ericjfarrar

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  • Location
    Fountain, Colorado
  • Biography
    9-Years in the Army; 3 Tours in Iraq; Speak Japanese; Married with a daughter and a grandson
  • Interests
    Web Design, Programming, Welding & Forging
  • Occupation
    Senior Missile Maintenenance Supervisor in the Army
  1. Ian, these are the standards for the BSA Metalworking badge as of 2002 - 4 options including sheetmetal, silversmith, foundry, and blacksmith. And I agree with you on the changing standards. I looked at the differences in some Merit Badge requirements from the 80's when I was finishing up my Eagle requirements and the 2002 edition... All I can say is, "really?" http://www.scoutingbsa.org/programs/boyscouts/merit_badges/Metal_work.html Option 4 - Blacksmith Name and tell the use of the basic tools used by a blacksmith. Make a reasonably accurate sketch of two tasteful objects t
  2. Fortunately we can all still be merit badge counselors for blacksmithing. There is a "Metal Working" merit badge with two options to it: blacksmithing and machining. The book is packed up for my move this next month, but I recall the few skills to demonstrate in a single project include twisting, punching, rivetting, and I believe drawing out and upsetting. Popular projects used for this are simple twist tongs and candelebra's.
  3. A beautiful example, both simple and elegant. What would one call the joint of the three legs/arms? I can see how to form it and how it works, just not what it is called.
  4. Just thought I'd clarify one thing.... The cheap DIY method I described earlier is only an ESD (electro-static discharge) prevention measure; NOT a way to think you are safe when working on electrical systems. The grounding straps shown by Ironsmith and discussed by OddDuck are just the beginning of ESP (electric shock prevention) PPI. ESD generally deals with minute amounts of current but can be at high voltages. ESP deals with high currents - no matter the voltage. 1/2 an Amp can kill if it goes through you the (right?) way - even at low voltages! Just remember the 10% rule - gotta be 10%
  5. Here is a really simple fix that I've found works great. Take some 12#-8# copper strand wire, insulated - about 4-6 feet or even less if you really can't find some. Even as thin as 14# can work, but I prefer a bit more protection. If your blasting cabinet is grounded, just strip about an inch of the insulation from one end of the wire, and wrap around a loosened bolt that is clean - just to be safe, I used a self-drilling sheet metal screw in a pilot hole on a cabinet leg. Secure the wire on its way to the gloves. One glove will do, but for extra safety, you can run a second wire for the ot
  6. K-Town.... Assuming you are US Military..... Ray Ordnance Barracks has a cannibalization yard/DRMO where you can take parts off scrapped vehicles. Also, every motor pool has a scrap metal bin - just talk to either the Motor Sergeant, a maintenance team chief, or the machine shop/welding shop NCOIC. They can hook you up good - often with cutoffs and other scrap from perfectly good known quality steel. If these aren't an option for you, check into a car repair shop somewhere and ask where the local junk yards are. Many repair shops run their own small junk yards as a side business over there.
  7. I saw these quite a bit in Army Land Combat Missile Systems that I worked on - Bradley Fighting Vehicles and APCs with the TOW missile systems, pre-ODS versions as well as on the first generation Dragon thermal night trackers. Good reliable and simple jam nut type system before locktite was very widespread.
  8. Thanks to everyone wanting steel I am looking at an affordable move... And Vulcan must be looking out for me because I also got an unsolicited call from a relative offering up some shop space until I buy another house in a few years, so my tools will have a new home!
  9. Moving time has come and I don't see the point in hauling my steel 2 states away then storing it for a few years.... And the wife says I have to get rid of it. I would much rather give it away to a smith than send it to scrap! Also giving away/selling tools - ask if interrested! I have about 30 pieces of HR 1045 around 8' long ranging from 5/16" to 1" - square and round, and a few strips of 1/2"x1/8" flat and one 3"x3/16" flat HR 1095 I think it is. I also have 4 nearly 1" thick NEW heavy truck coil springs, 4 sets of leaf springs, 4 20# (standard grill size) propane tanks, 2 full- size O2
  10. I've only come across a handful of metal-handled hammers so far and neither of the two types I've hefted have impressed me. The ones with fitted/shock-mounted handles seemed to all be thin walled aluminum and I've destroyed the handles within hours of starting to use them. The other type I've used have a solid head-and-handle with a molded rubber grip. They had a convenient center of gravity but felt unnaturally rigid. Also transmitted considerable shock through the handle - especially on cold work. As for wood vs. fiberglass - this seems to be a matter of choice among craftsmen, including
  11. Which college in Idaho? I attended Boise State University before joining the Army then made the move from Boise to Huntsville after Basic Training.... Definitely won't forget that SHORT trip!
  12. Laoich23, Fine looking anvil you've got in the works there. I fabbed mine up from 1 chunk of big forklift tine and 2 cut up tank half shafts.... I didn't have any oxygen for the A/O torch when I was starting so I had to cut the 3" round off and then rough cut the horn with a hack saw... It was a good workout but made the grinding work much easier and I only went through 2 hacksaw blades... What worked for me and might help you with shaping your horn is using a hacksaw just like you would draw round stock out with a hammer - square pyramid to octagon pyramid. Then move on to the grinder to
  13. I took a couple big thick chunks of similar leaf springs and made a couple stout hot cut hardies with 'em. Hydraulic press was definitely helpful in forging down the hardy shank. The edges took some real heavy hitting with a 3# hammer to shape 'em - just make sure they get and stay hot clear through and hit 'em hard or you'll just be moving the outer portion of the metal.
  14. On the question of the spindle that contacts the tire, how about using a multi-belt pulley with grooves for 2-4 v-belts with either a snug-fitting section of pipe or a steel can welded over it to level the grooves out? Been toying with that idea while I search for a chunk to turn on the lathe to make a spindle with. Any thoughts on the multi-belt pulley with a snug pipe on it?
  15. So I finally finished my new forge - my first forge is a huge beast and weighs a ton, so I wanted a smaller, lighter, and (of course) hotter forge for every day use. I'll keep the old one for larger pieces that may not fit in the new one. First, let me introduce the old beast; a single-burner with approximate chamber dimensions of 8"x8"x5"... made the housing out of 1/4" HR Plate and have regretted it ever since. The third shot of her is of her back side... Now for the new girl! She is a single piece of 3/32" diamond plate bent on a sheet metal brake then welded together. She is MUCH
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