Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Dave Hammer

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    808

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by Dave Hammer

    Built my first gas forge!

    in Gas Forges

    Posted

    Frosty....   I don't know what you are reading, but I suggest you read the following MSDS.

     

    Zirconium Silicate MSDS

     

    http://www.pshcanada.com/MSDS/Zircopax%20Plus.pdf  (This is one for Zircopax) 

     

    This is part of the document.

     

    PRTMARY ROUTES OF EXPOSURE:

    Skin: No   Eyes: no   Inhalation: Yes   Ingestion: Yes

    TARGET ORGAN (S) EFFECTS :

    zircconium compounds-Skin, respiratory system

    Silica-Respiratory system

    CARCINOGENICITY STATUS :

    The following compound (s) are listed as carcinogens by NTP, IARC,

    OSHA or all-:

    crystaline Silica ( IARC)

    POTENTIAL, HEAITH EFFECTS:

    WARNING ! DO NOT INHALE DUST!

    This product contains small amounts of Crystalfine Silica. Crystalline Silica

    is known to cause cancer and is associated with the cronic lung disease

    silicosis. symptoms of silicosis include chronic cough, dyspnea, wheezing and

    respiratory tract infections, such as tuberculosis. Individuals with

    pre-existing respiratory conditions may have increased sensitivity to

    crystafline silica exposure.

     

    Other MSDS speak to eye and skin irritants. 

     

     

    These are two other MSDS for zirconium silicate.

     

    http://tamceramics.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/TAM_Zircon_0612_MSDS.pdf

     

    http://www.lagunaclay.com/msds/pdf/3rawmat/adry/mzircgm.pdf

     

    There are other MSDS online that have varying descriptions of hazards.

     

    I feel, as someone who is showing how to use products, a strong responsibility to EMPHASIZE any hazards (however small)  that may be known or documented.  Based upon these MSDS, I believe there is dangerous health impacts if this product is used without significant caution.

     

    I worry about this because if we minimize discussion about the hazards, fewer people will take precautions....   and many people will take none.     I am not Chicken Little screaming the sky is falling, the cautions are documented.  I am someone who worries about people who will not take proper precautions and may end up with serious repercussions or cancer down the road.

    Built my first gas forge!

    in Gas Forges

    Posted

    There is a series of videos about a forge I call the Super C.  My channel is djhammerd.  If you search, using the channel name, you should see all of them (forge build, lining, floor and doors and product sources).  I've made forges like this from both cylinders and square tubing. 

     

    The lining video shows how to use the multi-layered refractories.  I have since just used one layer of Zirconium Silicate (over rigidizer) with great results.  One other change....  I no longer cement in the floor.  I just lay it on thermal blanket, so it can easily be changed out (like for using a separate floor when I forge weld).  I do rigidize the ends of the thermal blanket on the bottom.

     

    ANH has a rigidizer called InsTuff.  I bought some to see how it worked.   Don't use that for the binder for Zirconium Silicate, it's diluted compared to what I recommend in the videos.  IMHO,  Colloidal Silica is a better product for this anyway (for both rigidizer and binder). 

    Built my first gas forge!

    in Gas Forges

    Posted

    Zircopax is a brand name for zirconium silicate.  Earlier this year, I put videos up on YouTube describing how it can be used, along with other chemicals, to line propane forges.  In the lining video, I apply zirconium silicate over rigidized thermal blanket, then put on a thin layer of refractory mortar, after which another layer of zirconium silicate is applied.  The sandwiched layering is used by a glassworker I know who builds glory holes.  A single layer of zirconium silicate can be used over rigidizer  in small forges.  It is an amazing refractory.

     

    I will strongly caution though, that these are dangerous chemicals and you must protect yourself appropriately or you are putting your health at risk.  Using proper cleanup procedures are equally important also.  Please read the Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) for these products before using them.... 

    Items to make as a test of ones skills

    in Blacksmithing, General Discussion

    Posted

    I completely agree with Frank Turley.  Making various types of tongs will test your mettle.

     

    There are many blacksmith books that show differing types of tongs.  If you don't have the books (even if you do), use BING to search for "blacksmith tongs", then display the results as images.  You can page down and look at the images as presented, or click on one to get a larger image of one of the pictures and then click on the ">" on the right side of the image to bring up one picture at a time.

     

    There are even some progression pictures (showing the steps you go through to make tongs) if you look enough.

    looking for wrought iron

    in Blacksmithing, General Discussion

    Posted

    Wrought iron IS on eBay most of the time.  

     

    These are few of recently completed items...

     

    www.ebay.com/itm/31-lbs-Very-Large-WROUGHT-IRON-up-to-2-1-8-dia-Anvil-Blacksmith-Forge-T-/221221388695?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3381d28197

     

    www.ebay.com/itm/12-ANTIQUE-VINTAGE-WROUGHT-IRON-1-2-X-1-2-100-YRS-BLACKSMITH-ANVIL-TONGS-/140958415239?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20d1c6b987

     

    www.ebay.com/itm/9-Lbs-Old-WROUGHT-IRON-Round-Square-Flat-Blacksmith-Anvil-Forge-Knife-Ax-p-/321124264407?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ac47f69d7

     

    www.ebay.com/itm/20-lbs-Old-WROUGHT-IRON-FLAT-STOCK-1-2-X-1-3-4-Etc-Blacksmith-Tomahawk-Ax-W-/321121283046?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ac451ebe6

     

    I would expect more to be up soon.  If you are impatient, you might try sending a message to a seller from one of these ads...

    looking for wrought iron

    in Blacksmithing, General Discussion

    Posted

    If you are going to try to forge wrought bar to 1/6th of an inch (and yes, it can be done), be sure you start with a very highly-refined wrought iron.  A cut and bend (till breaking) procedure should show very small fibers (if any).  

     

    Wrought iron can be bought on eBay (no listings tonight), but I'm not sure you would find highly-refined there.

    Smithing Biomechanics

    in Blacksmithing, General Discussion

    Posted

    Long VS short handles....  There is definitely a divide in opinions among everyone on this.  A short handle (actually choked up) and held loosely works best for me (to avoid stress). 

     

    I do, however, have friends that are professional smiths that go the other way and feel strongly about it.

    anchors for kaowool

    in Insulation and Refractories

    Posted

    The following company sells SS posts (meant to be welded in or on the forge body) and ceramic buttons that slide onto those posts.  Nichrome wire can be used to hold the buttons on individually or wired to the next post....

     

     

    ANH

    Josh Blankenship (540) 375-2107

    2001 Salem Industrial Drive Salem, VA

     

    However....  Eventually, every structure will fail if you sustain high enough heat, including the posts, wire, thermal blanket and any coating you put on it.     Personally, I consider lining a consumable with a life expectancy dependent upon use and temperatures sustained. 

     

    I use sodium silicate to "glue" thermal blanket to forge bodies (see videos referenced above), then put on a refractory coating for efficiency.  If the forge is run hot for a long time and high heat radiates through the thermal blanket to the forge body, the sodium silicate will chrystalize and fail to hold the blanket in place.  I have, more recently than the Super C lining video, started recommending using nichrome wire staples (see simple forge lining video) or the posts referenced above in addition to the sodium silicate for those of us that use extreme heat for extended periods.

    Finalizing Gas Forge designs

    in Gas Forges

    Posted

    From the looks of your design, you are going to use brick to make your forge.  I assume you are using soft firebrick (IFB) for the sides and top.  I would recommend you use soft firebrick for the ends also (the forge will heat up faster if you do).  It appears you may be considering using thin hard brick for the floor.  That is fine, but I also recommend using a layer of soft brick under the hard brick if you do.  The hard brick will need to be heated pretty much all the way through (to forging temperature) before anything you lay on it will be heated to forging temperature.  That heat will be conducted to the table below.  I recommend using soft brick on a metal surface under the thin hard brick.  If you are not going to be forge welding in this forge, I would recommend using the soft fire brick for the floor of the forge rather than the thin hard brick.  If fact, you could find some hard brick that is only 1/2 inch thick to use as a small platter when you want to forge weld (I don't know where to tell you to buy this, but I know it is available). 

     

    Since your burn chamber (as drawn) is less than 500 cubic inches, two 3/4 inch venturi burners should heat your forge just fine.  I would put them about four inches from each end of the forge. 

     

    I use what I call a free form forge when I need a large forge for my projects (normally, I use a small round forge).  If you are curious, I have a video on YouTube, showing how I construct it.  My Youtube channel is djhammerd.  Just look for the "Free Form Forge" video.

     

    If you design your burner setup so you can shut off one burner, you can easily use 1/2 of your burn chamber for the active forge.  Just cut (or file) a soft firebrick down enough so you can slide it in from one end.  Even with a little space around it (enough to allow you to slide it in), it will work perfectly.

     

    Good luck with your project.

    Burner Location

    in Gas Forges

    Posted

    Unless you have already built it, I suggest you build a smaller forge, especially if this is your first one.  I do most of my forging from a burn chamber of about 160 cubic inches, which is made from 9 inches of an 8.5" OD cylinder with soft brick for doors (2" of thermal blanket for insulation and a refractory floor).  You will save fuel and will be up to forging temperatures much faster.   

×
×
  • Create New...