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I Forge Iron


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Posts posted by emtor

  1. Newton's third law . . . action / reaction.
    I think the college 101 physics class would use this law.
    If you sit in a chair, your body will exert force on the chair (from above),-and the chair will exert the same force on your body (from below).
    In our case, a piece of steel between a hammer and an anvil will be hit by two forces;-one from the hammer and one from the anvil according to Newton.
    If this has anything to do with anvil hardness,-I don't know. Let the 101 physics figure it out.

  2. Well,- THIS video link removed due to language on Youtube claims just that . . . anvil rebound is horse xxxx.
    The video further says that blacksmiths prefer anvils with a good rebound because it makes the hammer jump back up and therefore saves energy for the blacksmith's arm.
    In my opinion (I might be wrong), rebound has to do with Isaac Newton, and that any action produces an equal reaction.
    So, when the hammer hits the workpiece from the top, an anvil with good rebound will hit the workpiece back from the surface of the anvil with a force depending on the rebound.
    Now,-is it true that rebound is of no value in an anvil, and should I trust Isaac Newton or the xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx on Youtube?
    BTW,-both my Swedish anvils have rebound a bit above 90%.

  3. Soderfors is a really small place with less than 2000 inhabitants, which is typical for Sweden's industrial policy.
    Locate industry in places where people otherwise would move away from.
    My other anvil is a Lesjofors, another mini town with less than 1200 inhabitants.
    The common feature of these places is a river, a fast running one, to produce the power needed, hence the suffix -fors in the names (fors=waterfall).
    So, if you end up in a town with a name ending with -fors, be sure it was or still is an industrial town producing items that require steel as a raw material.
    For people like us Sweden is "the land of milk and honey", or should I say, the land of second hand anvils, tongs, lathes and milling machines and any other steel item.

  4. It's a Nohab anvil.
    Nohab of Trollhättan, Sweden, startet manufacturing in 1847, producing locomotives, hydropower turbines and tank chassis and obviously anvils.
    Weight: 56 kilos.
    The anvil appears as almost unused and rings loudly like a bell when struck lightly with a hammer.
    Now,-it looks like it has a steel plate forge welded on the face. -Maybe it has, maybe not, but cast steel anvils usually has the name of the manufacturer protruding outwards.
    This anvil has the name and weight chiseled into the metal. -Perhaps it's a forged anvil with a tool-steel faceplate welded onto it.
    The face is flat with only a couple of very small scars. The edges are undamaged and a very small portion on one side is sligthly rounded.
    I'm not selling this . . . ever!







  5. On 9/14/2020 at 7:21 PM, aaamax said:

    That looks nice and I'm guessing a Söderfors at over 100kg.

    The vise is good looking as well, is it heavy?

    I'm not sure about the weight, but it is smaller than my 80 kg Lesjöfors anvil.
    The vise weighs 20 kg.

    On 9/15/2020 at 1:01 AM, Frosty said:

    If it's a Swedish anvil the face is almost certainly not forge or otherwise welded on,

    I'll take some more pics, hopefully tomorrow. -I need to buy some chalk too.
    I haven't really looked at it yet. Been busy adding a concrete floor and insulating my old shed.

  6. Came across this one today,-an old Swedish anvil, can't remember the brand.
    Look closely, it has a thick toolsteel face forgewelded onto it, no dings, cracks or wounds on the face and the edges are without blemishes.
    The face is very smooth and flat, I consider myself lucky.
    The seller had several anvils for sale but this one was the nicest of the lot.
    Oh BTW,-I bought a blacksmith's vise also.


  7. 1 hour ago, ThomasPowers said:

    Repair work done by people who DON'T know what they are doing is quite liable to result in worse problems. Unfortunately you can be a a skilled welder; yet not know how to weld on anvils.  I've met a number of professional welders who don't know the difference between a Trenton and a Vulcan anvil and how that affects how it needs to be worked.

    Just like you can have a top notch transmission repairman but still not go to them for rebuilding an engine!

    I don't know much about anvils either, but I know they can be cast iron (cheap and not very good), cast steel, soft iron with a tool-steel face etc.
    Different anvils would require different methods of repair.
    A welder working in a shipyard may only weld low-carbon steel in his or her lifetime and may know nothing about hardening and tempering higher carbon/tool-steel.

  8. Cooling down is critical since the base metal and the weld will shrink at different rates. Too fast, and the welds will crack.
    I once tried to weld cast iron with nickel rod, which should be just fine. It cracked due to the fact that I didn't preheat, and let it cool down without insulating.

  9. I know that many reface their anvils by welding, and it's OK as long as they follow the rules.
    Preheating, correct rod that goes well with the base metal etc.
    I'm not a welder by any stretch so I'll use the anvil as it is.
    There's a video on YT where some guys are heating an anvil up to hardening temp and then dropping it in a barrel of oil.
    -Not for the faint of heart.



  10. On 8/16/2020 at 10:41 AM, swedefiddle said:

    Welcome from the West (Left Coast) of Canada. My father was born south of Stockholm.


    I'm a Norwegian expat presently living in the north of Sweden. Sweden is nice since it used to be an industrial nation, so there are loads of machines and equipment hiding in garages and barns to be had for cheap. Swedish stuff by the way, is of very high quality. -I like it here.

    On 8/16/2020 at 3:22 PM, Marc1 said:

    By the way ,what can you make? 

    I'm not sure I understand the question.
    -What I'm planning to make, or what I'm able to make (on an anvil)?
    I make knives (stock removal method), so for doing that I really don't need an anvil, but it would be nice to be able to make chisels, drifts,  candleholders etc. and for that the anvil will come in handy.

  11. As I said,-there is an air hardening tool steel welding rod to be had, but I do not know if this rod would match well with the steel in the anvil.
    And if not, the anvil would be ruined, so I won't take that chance.
    I'll start using the anvil as it is.

  12. 14 hours ago, Frazer said:

    There is a proven process to reface an anvil. However I think you will find that the cost and skills to do it properly may far outweigh the downsides of leaving the marks on the face. 

    Glenn often recommends (wisely) to spend 2000 hours working on the anvil before deciding whether the "imperfections" are worth repairing or not.

    Robb Gunther's method requires heating the anvil to 400 F before welding, but there exists a welding rod made from air hardening tool steel (Selectrode 1256) that do not require the base metal to be heated up. Hardness when untempered is 55-60 HRC.
    But, it all depends on wether this rod welds well to the base material or not. If it does, all is well,-if not, the anvil is ruined.

  13. I wonder what could have caused the damage.
    A chisel will raise a lip, but the marks on this one looks similar to what you would see if a grinder with a thin cut-off wheel was used so there's nothing to planish.
    Yes, it has been mistreated badly, and it makes me wonder what could have caused it.
    However, the old anvil has been rescued from the grave and will give years of service still.

  14. All of you are quite correct, not a good idea to remove the hardened face. -No idea how deep the hardening goes.
    Would filling the dings with weld (stoody 2110 rods) be a better idea and then grind flat with a flap disk?
    Doing nothing at all would still make the anvil quite usable though.

  15. Picked up an old Swedish anvil, made by Lesjofors Bruk, Sweden in 1899. -Weight: 181 pounds.
    Lots of dings in the face, no cracks, rings like a bell, very loud and the sound seems to last forever.
    Lesjofors anvils from this era have a reputation of being of high quality.
    I cleaned up the face somewhat with a flapdisk but a couple of the dings were a bit deep so I'll take it to a machine shop and let them mill the face.
    It seems that the steel develops a patina instead of rusting.


  16. On 5/21/2018 at 9:23 AM, Charles R. Stevens said:

     25# little giants do a heck of a lot of work and would only require a 250-500# anvil. Realistically what are planning on forging? 

    25 pound hammer and a 250-500 pound anvil sounds great. Those numbers aren't too scary. I think such a powerhammer would suffice for what I'm planning to forge.
    So what am I going to use the hammer for? -Making pattern welded billets from 1095 and 15N20 steel.
    The width of the billets will be a little wider than the width of the blades. The height will not be very much since I'll be drawing out to twice the length and then fold and forge weld etc. until I get the desired number of layers and a length that is a bit longer than the knifeblades.

    On 5/21/2018 at 12:47 PM, Frosty said:

    Each fillet will require about 17 lbs or 7,6 kg. of welding rod, wire, etc. to weld solid. That's EACH one, remember to account for the expenses of consumables, welding rod or wire, gas and add it to the time necessary to make that much weld. 

    I'd rather spend the money and time trying to buy a length of solid round or square stock. After all that welding the electric wiring in my house would have melted and so would I.

  17. A large hydraulic cylinder would be perfect, as would counterweights. The weights used for tensioning railroad powerlines are perhaps not so bad, but they need to be stacked and welded. My location . . . well,-there's my problem. Northernmost region of Norway . . . think Alaska far as xxxx from Anchorage, same climate, equally sparsely populated.
    The only thing abundant here are reindeer herds and fish. Not one single scrapyard or large machinery site and next to no industry and we're talking about an area larger than many European countries.
    But there are options. The nearest decent town that have such sites is 6 hours away by car. Then there's Finland's northernmost decent town also 6 hours away.
    Lastly Sweden, 6 hours before you enter areas resembling somewhere where people are likely to live.
    Regarding Sweden,-the northernmost area is full or iron-ore and they have a huge iron-ore mine there and lots of steel plants everywhere.
    Goes without saying that every town and city there have stores that sell steel products.
    Sweden is my best bet since I'll be going there for the summer holidays anyways.

  18. I've been thinking the exact same. A piece of steel that big I would never attempt to try to make the ends square or cut it off from the parent stock.
    I'm sure I could find a discarded axle in many of the shipyards here but asking these guys to cut off a 3 feet piece from it and face the ends on a lathe for me would probably make them laugh and kick my xxx
    The easiest way would be the sawmill roller tubing I have lying behind the house and fill it with scrap iron and concrete. I would need to weld a good piece of toolsteel on top of it also. The only thing I do not know is if this solution would actually work half well.
    The only reference I've got is youtube videos of highly doubtful wooden powerhammers. Some of them, surprisingly enough move steel under the hammer.
    Well,-they probably demonstrated these hammers using mild steel. Tool steel and carbon steel are different beasts.
    I am however sure of one thing though: -Anvils matter!
    I started out making knives from leaf-spring using a chunk of an I-beam as an anvil. I couldn't for the life of me understand why the steel wouldn't move.
    Then I got the chance to use a proper 150 pound anvil and the same steel moved almost like butter . . . so,-anvils do matter.

  19. I'm drooling over the idea of making a powerhammer Little Giant-style.
    I've come across a site where the author of that site offers plans.
    Now, there has been 400+ being made from these plans according to him. so I assume he knows what he's talking about.
    I have a question regarding the anvil post. The author warns about taking shortcuts regarding the anvil.
    A tube filled with something won't do according to him, as it must be a solid block of steel.
    Where do you find a three feet long 10 to 12 inch diameter piece of steel?
    The closest I can get in finding something like that would be in a ship yard. A piece of a large discarded propeller-axle would do nicely,-if
    the yard would even let you inside the gate that is.
    What I do have access to are 10 inch diameter steel tubing (rollers from an old sawmill). What about filling one up with scrap iron and concrete?
    It would get heavy but would it do half well as an anvil when you're in a pinch?
    I'd like to add that I'm not planning to draw out very large billets on an industrial scale, but I must be able to make a powerhammer able to draw out
    tool steel non the less.


  20. I have a 20 ton lever operated bottle jack mounted inside a frame that I plan to use for forging small knives.

    The frame is only experimental to get a feel on how much pressure is required to squeeze leafspring-steel.

    As long as the lever isn't putting up much resistance, that is, in the beginning of the squeeze, I'm not too worried.

    But as the spring-steel starts to flatten, the piston movement is being restricted and the lever is getting hard

    to operate pretty fast. I'm not comfortable with using all the strength I've got on the lever as long as the frame is

    just an experimental frame. I have several feet of large H-beam outside the house and I plan on making a frame

    as soon as the snow is gone. Let's say I manage to make a reasonably safe frame,-how much force can I apply

    to the lever? This bottle jack has a safety valve built in, but I know little about how this stuff works.

    Is there a chance I'll ruin the bottlejack, or can I just operate the lever with as much strength as I want provided

    the frame holds up?

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