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I Forge Iron

DuEulear

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Everything posted by DuEulear

  1. So i made myself a chefs knife out of o-6 tool steel being lazy i did not want to drag out the forge just to heat treat one knife so i grabbed my torch and went with a simple diffrential heattreat not expecting anything other than function.... this is what i got. Once i realized i had a hamon... my first all be it boring as no clay was involved i had to go all out on the fittings. I went with solid copper scales soldered to the tang then hammered and polished the blade was etched in my vinigar picle bath i use for removing scale 10 min then rubbed with silk then 10 min soak anout 6 cycles Tell me what ya think du
  2. Larger grits do remove stock and flesh much quicker than smaller grits i swiched from 36 grit blaze belts to 50 grit as a starting point as many of you have said it is eaiser to mess up quickly too. 50 seemes to be a nice comprimise between fast and controlable. Blaze belts are awesome but i really need to try other brands high quality buffet = 2x 72 cork belts from tru grit + some buffing compound best polishing media i have ever used Linnen buff works as that final step leather belts are nice too as it is quick to power strope 10 knives on tge grinder than doing it all by hand enjoy du
  3. Thanks again for all your help guys du
  4. Sounds like a posibility all the same i whish it was an ordinary knife file i would have more usefor it. Pehaps i will just make a knife file knife...
  5. The sides are not cut the back is rough or bastard cut i can see how it would get you into the corner of a right angle notch as the safe side riding the side of the notch would raise tge back enough to grt into the 90 degree corner
  6. The back is the only part that is cut? The two flats are safe, and the file is factory new. I could see using it to file the very corner of a square notch in a part though. It seemes to me i would want to blunt the edge not in use though as it is sharp like a knife. Filing keyways seems like a pretty good use though frosty. thanks
  7. So a while back when i first started blacksmithing i purchased a box of 100 new old stock random files for $ 50 figuring anything i did not want i could always forge into somthing else in the box came all manner of single cut and double cut files and rasps rounds triangular half round , bandsaw files..... along with all that came three files? Made by nickelson usa that look like the following images it may be hard to tell but there are only file teeth cut on the lower half of the back. The sides are smoth and it is shaped like a knife file but all descriptions i have seen for knife files would still have teeth cut into the flat sides of the file? The crossection is a long wedge with a square back. Anybody have any ideas what the intended purpose of this file is?
  8. If you forged your own damaskus you could forge a piece of the parent bar into pinstock and use that should blend in real nice
  9. You are right theese smiths are really good at what they do and i dont know whay anyone would assume a drop hammer that size is in the middle of the street ?
  10. What dose she weaigh? How is the rebound? reguardless you did really well for 25$
  11. Nice work looks like she should be rock solid once you bolt it down
  12. This is my mobil plasma cutting / welding table the table top is 1/4 plate the cutting grates are 3” on center and made from 1/8 x4” steel the frame is welded from 2” 1/8 wall tube the foot print is 30 x60 the table top is 35x60 i have a small space and wanted a cut table and a welding table
  13. I dont know i wouldnt mind being a kiwi
  14. I just bought a #5 from old world anvils and i love it . They are made in india by a diffrent company. But good machiens
  15. The logic would seem to follow a few inches of sand should make a good cusion there are also anti fatigue rubber mats availible but hot metal means burning rubber. In my old shop i made a curtian out of a high tempature welding blanket to keep forge welding sparks from flying accross the shop into the ajacent wood shop . Cheaper than a live wall system
  16. Sorry i have always been told not to water cool any of the more rich alloy tool steels
  17. Judging by the rim of the bucket 12” diamiter tge anvil is 24” ish long and 13 ish deep i would also guess between 175 and 225 lbs
  18. It is not normally a hot work die steel but it should work for all of those however dont water cool any of your tools in use or you will likely shatter them also find a good data sheet as d2 has rather spacific tempature ranges for forging
  19. In a word...... beautiful i like the lines the handle evrything
  20. Iron dragon is a lucky man
  21. No i have never seen one of theese but now that i have i want one
  22. H13 is dandy but will you ever heat your anvil up to red heat in use ? If you have your choice of high alloy steel i would go with s-7 as it will be more sutid to an anvil
  23. I was actually refering to the handle not the steel i also now realise it is the grain that gives the illution of rough i ment no offence it is a great knife
  24. Yes it has a partial tang about 1/2 tgrough the antler the pommel has a hidden pin drilled and solderd to the antler side of the brass that like the blade is attached only to the antler the hammermarks are intentional as i like the look i have fully butchered two deer with a simular blade of mine without resharpening if a blade is sharp why would you halve to force it ? Forcing a cut will cause you to be cut i can see that the hammer texture can be a stress riser but i don’t see the clenliness issue if the blade is clean it is fine to for food processing it dose not need to be sterilised for sugery. in pratice a hunting knife dose not need to chop a 2x4 or stab through a car door This might be a great test for a fighiting blade but tge handle on a skinner only needs to withstand the force of the cut through flesh and the occational drop on the concrete just my 2 centavos
  25. Well you seem to be in the us so i will assume you are purchasing new from owa so a# 4 press would roughley equate to 4 ton according to the guys at owa it will do quite alot . I just recently purchased a #5 press for simular reasons ( wanted to have cash left over to build the stand and tooling). Ps i am very happy with it so far
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