senator

Daniel - I sent you DM. Respect Brett

Thank You. Currently looking at 52100,4340,8670,01,15n20. You were not kidding about the 52100. What a royal pain to work with. I appreciate the response. Senator.

Hello everyone. It's been years since I have posted here. I am looking for information on Billy Merritt's 5 steel 75 layer damascus pattern. If anyone here could point me to resources that I may have overlooked it would be greatly appreciated. Respect, Senator

Hi John, The guy at the supply company didn't know what to charge for a 10 pound tube. I told him I was looking at $35.00 for 5 pounds off Amazon. (looking at china product) He then went to check with his boss who came back with " I dunno....$30.00 cash sound OK?" So yeah- I now have a unopened 10 pound tube for $30.00. If it brings $1600 at Grainger I can expect to get what - $300-$500 off Ebay? For that Ill just keep and use it. It was good thought. EDIT: I'd sell it in a hot second if I could get $1600 for it. :-) Respect, Senator

Frosty, here is a picture of the rod I'm using. It's cobalt-6. I am told they use on rock crushers and mining equipment. I ran it a bit hotter and then grind while still hot. Works much better now. Thanks everyone.

I find myself making good progress with the anvil. Since my last post I had the anvil flame cut to shape and now am working on welding on a "buttering" layer of 7018 then two passes of Mackay Cobalt-6C for hardening. The Cobalt-6c was the only hard face rod I could get my hands on locally. I was doing some digging and found the Rockwell Hardness is projected around 45-48 for this electrode. I would like to try and get it a bit harder ( into the low 50's at least). Will the hard face crack if I heat it and use a skid loader to quench in a pond? It is currently sitting at 700 pounds. Thank you all for the collective advice so far.

Thank you. I was not very clear in my second post. I am planning on flipping it on end and using it like a hoss striking block. Since the first post I've decided to use the notched end up and the big square end down. The plan from here is to use three sections of 1/2 plywood for the base raising the total height to 32 1/4. Thanks again for the advice. Its much appreciated. Senator

I got the steel back to the shop and loaded onto a piano cart. I measured it and it is actually bigger than advertised. If I have done the math correctly Im looking at 791.7 pounds of A-36. I noticed that the flame cut notch is very rough, while the other end is a factory finish and really nice. Also, the finished end has a 2" bolt hole already cut into it that is 6-8 inches deep. The bolt hole is perfect for converting into a square hardy hole. I may flip it and work the other end and come up with some sort of very stout, little stand that can handle the notch. As it sits its 30 3/4 long, and I would like the working surface around 32 inches. My goal for tomorrow is to decide what end to use and then weld on feet and chain hooks on the sides so I can move it around easier. Frosty, as a way to control weld thickness and keep everything level as possible; I was thinking of welding on 3/8 S-7 or compatible rod in a # pattern on the face. The rod will allow me to keep it level when welding and grinding the same way they use a scree board. Does this sound like a good idea? Respect, Senator

Thank you Frosty. Sounds like Hard Facing Alloy rods it is. Ill post up photos once I get somewhere with this. If done correctly this ASO will have as much mass as Thor's hammer. Respect, Senator

With historically low prices of scrap I decided to take advantage with the purchase of this 770 pound piece of A36. The plan is to flip on end and either weld in a 1" thick top plate of 4140 with 7024 Jett rod or to purchase hard face alloy rods. My machine is a Lincoln Easy Arc 250. The solid weld of the plate will stretch my patience and skill level with a stick welder. The Had face weld will also be test as it will require hours of grinding to smooth it back out in order for it to be useable. Ive read everything possible on this site and at Anvilfire; The copy and pasted photo from Anvil fire site will give you some idea of what I am trying to do. My current plan also calls for stepped feet similar to Austrian anvil. My question for the pundits is if all things are equal, I harden the end cap properly, and I manage to build a wonderful hornless anvil, will the hard face alloy rods give me a equally hard surface ( with A36 base steel ) as the 4140 end cap? The way I see it currently is that the 4140 end cap will be more work but less passes and less finishing. Are the two different processes comparable or is one much better than the other? I am not content to make it into a giant Brazel striking block and just leave the A36 as is. To be clear- I am only doing this to the notched end. Its a 7.5 x 7 square. Thank you all for any constructive advice. Anvilfire image removed at the request of Jock Dempsey

Looks good! ;-)

Its...its BEAUTIFUL. Said in my Arnold Ernest Toht voice. http://indianajones.wikia.com/wiki/Arnold_Ernst_Toht

Fair enough Alan. I work in automobiles and automobile reconditioning for my primary employment. My guys all work on a very tight production schedule. I can assure you that if I were given "the weather" as an excuse as to why they didn't get the proper work done I would treat that in similar fashion as my comments listed above. You are professionals, darn well act like it. I am not entirely discounting this company; it is making me second guess my choice, and all the time I have spent emailing back and forth. I will with hold any sort of personal judgment until after phabib gets his hammer in and can vouch for them...whether it being a positive or negative. Respect, Senator

Very good point Thomas. Thank you. I have managed to talk both my wife and daughter into going with me for the day. I hope to make the most of it. I just bought one of those "square trade" card readers for the iPhone. What does everyone use? Of course I prefer cash, but I realize this isn't always practical.

MAN! I was hoping for good news. I am holding off on my order as long as possible to make sure you are happy with your machine. From what I've seen so far, I am leaning toward using a different company. It seems once they get your $ they offer excuse after excuse as to why it has not been shipped. Senator

My first "show" will be October 3rd. Its a mad scramble now to get things done. I am trying to have a broad range in prices and items for sale. Its a tough trying to figure out what will sell and how many you will need. I am trying to stick to $15-$25.00 range with items for guys, like bottle openers, and personalized Fredric's crosses (Christmas ornament size). The event asked me to bring a gas forge and anvil....I am hoping if I bother to haul all that stuff out we have good weather; that and I hope the nearby booths are tolerant of me pounding out a few items. Thanks for the post. Senator

Thanks. I don't consider myself as a bladesmith either. Being self taught anything is overrated....I've ruined more projects than finished so far. I don't mind the jabs. My son had a coach that was on him constantly about his level of play. In frustration one night he broke down and told me how upset he was about the coach riding him. I explained " He is constantly on you because he can see higher level of play in you; even if you don't see it." Turns out that was his favorite coach as the entire teams level of play was much higher with him than with anyone else. :-) Like I said ,thank you for all the comments.

I have been lurking here for the past two years or so and not posting anything for fear of the negative comments. So far this post is going almost exactly as I thought it would. It seems all I have managed to do is use offensive terminology to describe a hand made blade, and confuse and misuse metallurgical processes. Much like this blade I am a work in process; learning all the while. Thank you for all the comments.

I can see your point. This is my version of a Tanto - esq blade. I do agree with your comments about the "Cold Steel" angular ends...I do not like those. Ill post up some more pictures as I get it further along and you can see how the last hole will be incorporated into the finger guard and handle.

I dig it. Nice work. Hope you sell 1 million of them.

"Tanto" sounds more catchy than drop point hunter with funny ground tip. The bronze finger guard will go around the last hole. I am planning on brazing it on this evening.

My calling it that.

This is my first attempt at a tanto knife. It has a flat grind due to the fact I do not have a fancy grinder. I forged it as closely to shape as possible then hand sanded up to 320 currently. I am planning on a bronze finger guard and a hidden tang covered in Acacia wood ( its what I have on hand ). I used the Japanese clay method of tempering and am a bit surprised by how well the hazy hamon shows up even though its forged 5160.

Hello all, I just found a Hay Budden online and the person wants about $3.00 per pound for it. Seems reasonable for the condition ( from what I can tell in a few pictures ) and I am wondering about the date of manufacture; Serial # 140946. I built the infamous rail road track anvil and have used that for the past two years. It works...but I would like to move to a more legitimate anvil in the shop. Thanks all for your help. Senator.

Very Nice. I have so much to learn....like how to wrap the handle like that. :-)