CMS3900

It sounds like a new style hammer, with the drive pulley behind the rear shaft support. Are the threads internal or external on the shaft? Most hammers have a threaded hole in the center of the shaft with a grease fitting to grease the clutch pulley.

This guy asked a simple question and the first response he got was snarky and rude. Then when he responds to it, upset at the way his post was responded to, he's told his attitude's the one that's wrong. Then a moderator reinforces the behavior and continues to be rude. This happens more often than I care to see on this forum, and I have met several people who have left the forum, or were banned because of peoples attitudes. No one forces anyone to post in a thread, yet some here feel compelled to throw their 2c. in even if its just rude as xxxx, or counter productive to the conversation. That's now how the blacksmith community in my area works. That's not how I thought it was supposed to work here. We want people to get into the craft, for what ever reason, and encourage their passion within the bounds of their means and safety. We don't tell them to throw their tools out and buy something else. or make 5000 S hooks before you even look at making a knife shaped object. To add to what Kozzy and BIGGUN said @TJ Smith as a general rule of thumb your depth of cut should not exceed 1/2 the diameter of the end mill. Also, the direction of cut makes a difference with chatter. Try making sure your conventional milling as shown here. Your end mills matter too, but any two or four flute HSS, or high speed steel, end mill on a machine like that in brass should work. If your plunging the end mill make sure it's center cutting. Speed and feed guidelines go out the window because their based on a machine with a assumed weight and rigidity, and the Grizzly isn't anywhere near what the calculations were based off of. Work by feel with sharp cutters and good technique, take light cuts and learn the machine is my best advice. The Grizzly mills are popular and a lot of info is out there on how to tune them up. If you have a square column one like the G0762 it is a whole lot better than the round column. Hope that helped TJ

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Gotta love a Bradley, We need more pics! Patrick is @patrick on here. If you need manuals let me or Patrick know and either of us can send them to you. I can't tell the dimensions of your box, but it looks sufficient. Bradley wants a pit 5-1/2 foot deep for that hammer if you go by the book. There are a bunch of varying ways to make the pit, with threads here on IFI about it. Some people go all out, others pour concrete in a open hole, your mileage may vary. If your putting stone in the bottom and pouring concrete over it, I would put 1" rigid foam around the sides and bottom, with the corners and floor taped, and probably line the whole thing with plastic before pouring the concrete in.

Parke Edwards -- Here's a interesting paper on it. http://udspace.udel.edu/handle/19716/12617

That looks like some home made C-tek, the normal C-tek has the matrix extending through the thickness This looks like chickenwire, you can barely make out the twists between the sections. @cedarghost where did you find those at?

Same here, wonder if its stainless chicken wire People take epoxy and make knife scales out of a lot of funny things.

does it look like twisted wire between the honeycomb pattern?

Without a better picture it looks like epoxy impregnated wire mesh.

50% Duty Cycle is 5 minutes continuous arc out of 10.

I have one similar to that with 4 legs. There should be a eye bolt going through the ball on the forge, that has the half round gear, and then on the handle there should be what looks to be a gate hook that attaches the pump handle to the eye bolt on the ball part. The wind shield depends on your conditions. I move mine around a lot so I don't want to add more weight. The cast iron in it and the claying like Frosty said adds enough.

I would say go to a local gas supplier, plumbing warehouse, or auto parts store. All of those places should carry high quality brass fittings. If that fails contact MSC or McMaster Carr. I get the bulk of mine from Lowes, Home Depot, or NAPA and haven't had a issue. Question though, is there a reason you need brass?

Walter flap disks are what I usually use, or Norton. I get them from my local welding supply store.

lol that depends on which thread you read, or what your question is. Ask about melting scrap to forge with and see what happens. If your a east coaster, also check out SOFA, Their Quad State show is really great.

Tongs, generally are one of the first things people want to make, but their efforts usually would be better spent learning basic smithing techniques. My personal recommendations for any smith who is just getting into it, and has acquired the tools you have are: Join your local ABANA affiliate and meet some people. Also join ABANA Go to http://markaspery.com and buy his books. Some might think them pricey, I did, but their worth every penny. Take some classes if time and funds permit, or look for open forge nights with your affiliate. Go to Kens Custom Iron and get some quick tong kits. Put them together and practice the skills from the books. Search on here how to make a anvil stand out of 4x4's or 6x6's.

From that picture it looks like you have a Low pressure regulator, which could be your issue. Usually the one's I see most have a wheel on one side for adjustment. Something like this: http://a.co/aJNT4T0 Also, before you get heckled, I would put your location in your profile so people can know if their near you to help out.

Welcome to IFI! Sounds like your on the path. The best thing to do for both questions is post pictures, lots of pictures. Take pictures of the anvil, the forge, the burner and one of the flame when the burners lit. Also, post a picture of the regulator you are using. A weak flame could be a clogged gas orifice, A/F ratio tuned wrong, or a regulator issue.

Trinity Site was pretty cool. Got a chance to go there a while back while on a guard summer camp mission to build the great wall. Wish I would of known about the VLA, but we drove from Deming, so I doubt I could of convinced everyone to drive there after trinity, and then back to base. The year I went, the whole "site" was chain linked fenced off, so no Trinitite prospecting was allowed, but there were tables setup with Trinitite and Geiger counters to use on it. It might of been my east coast ocean front blood but even in the desert it felt a bit "warmer" there. I would think wet sanding would cut down a lot on dust. It makes me wonder what differences there are with working stabilized toxic woods vs. raw wood.

It's used a lot in the heat treating process for blades. Products like ATP-641. Satanite or fireplace mortar in a pinch. AC forge, You could use anti-scale on it to forge, and acid etch it deeper later if need be. You may need to re-apply the anti scale a few times throughout the forging process depending on the product.

The groups around us are a pretty laid back good group of people. There are a few good shows and events each year I try to get to, but its pretty much participate as much as you want. BGCM's Blacksmith Days are great, May 20 & 21, 2017 in Westminster, MD. Tuckahoe's steam and gas show 7/6 to 7/9, and their blacksmith day 9/10 in Easton, MD. BGCM and Matt Harris Metalsmith Studio usually have a event in the fall Octoberish in Perryville, MD. The newsletters usually have great information in them too.

Hey Eli, Welcom to IFI. Where abouts on the eastern shore are you? I am over in DE, and there are a couple of good groups in our area if you hadn't already heard. Mid-Atlantic Smiths Association (MASA) and the Blacksmith's Guild of Central Maryland (BGCM).

If I were in a jam I would take some of the steel to your local welding store, tell them what equipment your running and they might be able to suggest a small stick rod or some other process for the application that fits the equipment you have. Just let them know the end product needs to be food-grade.

Tig would be the best way to put these together, Rivets would work, but if the pan is heated it might warp and not have a water tight seal.

Keep us updated on how it goes, and post pics!

Your doing your research man, and its smart to do. I had quoted a 165 from TZ Rufna, and found they had a similar price. Pros of buying a hammer direct from china: Less expensive, the two piece hammers can be indexed so the die is straight front and back, not just left and right hand angle, which would of been easier to stack on a angle next to my Bradleys that have the die in that position. I have not heard of a DOA hammer. Cons: Could possibly incur extra customs fees, doesn't come with a motor, very limited warranty and parts support, does not have any of the upgrades or bugs worked out that are present on the Anyang, or the stroke of the new HS hammers.