firefarm39

Frosty, I just wanted to say "thanks"!  I built a burner from your design in a very short time, and it works beautifully.  Well done!

Dave

Millhand, I know there is a fellow in Kalkaska that has coal for sale.  Have you checked with MABA (Michigan Artist Blacksmith's Association)?

The ideas just keep on coming . . . Frosty, Alan, Jim, Thanks for the input!!  Culver Creek, I think I need two attachment points, but at this point, all possibilities are still on the table.  Thanks!

Dave

Thank you all for your input.  As usual, you all have a great grasp of the problem! Frosty, they prefer no through hole in either the door or the handles, thus the challenge.  I had not considered going in the edge of the door . . . I think that has potential!

DSW, I agree, the set screw idea is sketchy at best.  I haven't built the handles yet, but when I do, I will take pictures.

Ausfire, that is the problem, they don't want anything showing on the inside.  They are not even using push plates on the interior, which would make my life easier!

ADA requirements? Huh, I had not considered that . . . thanks Thomas (I think )

Thanks, one and all!  I promise pictures in the near future!

Dave

Hi folks,

I am looking for ideas on how to attach a couple of door handles for a customer.  These are for a church. One of the church members built some beautiful double doors using two types of wood.  When the doors are closed the two contrasting woods form the image of the cross.  What they want me to do, is make a couple of door pulls in the shape of the nails used to crucify Jesus.  Nothing too hard so far, but here is the rub;  they don't want to use any kind of through bolts, so I will have to use some kind of stud in the door.  The only thing I can think of, is to weld a small tube of some sort onto the handle, slide it over the stud, and use set screws to hold it in place.  I am looking for any other ideas, since I am not real confident this will work.  Any ideas?  I'll try to get some pictures of the doors if that would help.  Thanks!!

Dave

Woodweavil, the short answer is yes, maybe.  So much depends on the design and tuning of your forge that it is impossible to say with absolute certainty.  Having said that, i obtain welding heat with my homemade rig using about 7 psi.  Good luck, be careful, and have fun!

Firefarm39

I believe that is a box stitcher, which is used to put the staples in the bottom of cardboard boxes.  I put a LOT of hours on one working at an apple packing plant.  Might not be quite as valuable as a book binder.

100 #er, dated 1908, purchased at a farm auction for $50 (I think).  It was half buried in mud at the time.

The "K" in KDS just indicates the die is for the 50 Lb. hammer.  Serial numbers for the 50s use a K prefix, 25s are prefixed with an "H", and 100s are "P".  DS just means Die System, I think.

I think it is well worth building them yourself, unless you are really pushed for time.  The burners are really not all that hard to make, and you will save a bunch of money, and understand the guts of the forge much better.  Hard to say whether to use one or two burners, as it is a very individual choice, based on your anticipated use.  I use a one-burner for most of my work, and only occasionally wish I had two.  Some people say the commercial burners run hotter, and that may be true, but my homemade ones run plenty hot for me, welding heat not hard to accomplish.  Good luck, and have fun!

Cleetis, i'll watch your progress with interest, as I have one in the works as well.  I don't have a Tig setup, so I'll be doing mine with a stick machine.  Good luck!

Thomas, the rake is a good idea.  I use an old dishwasher rack, cut apart and attached to the wall.  My first thought on the magnets was also,"not for files", but they look like they would work well for some stuff.  Thanks Nut!

Had the same situation here in SW Michigan, but it dried up when the temps dropped to the mid-teens overnight.  Now I need to spritz some oil on all the 'heavy metal'.  : )  By the way, has anyone tried Fluid Film as a protectant?  Maybe too messy?

Looks to me like you need to polish and etch before you can pass judgement.  I can make out definite layers in the billet, I'll bet you will be amazed when you etch it.

Stromam, you are doing some pretty cool stuff! First, your horn shape should not be any problem at all.  Very few anvils have conical horns, and that is an advantage most of the time.  As to hardening the face, I would say the answer depends on how you plan on using the anvil.  I have one a 500 lb Hay Budden, that has a face that is not as hard as it could be.  I don't have any problem with that, because i recognize that I can't beat on cold metal on it.  It works just fine when I forge hot metal on it.

It will be interesting to hear from someone about the steel structure, that is way beyond my expertise!

Good luck, and welcome to IFI.

Very nice!  Consider your idea "stolen" (if that is OK with you?).  I like the fact that you attached your card to it, another good idea.

It is fascinating to me that a pile of steel can evoke such poignancy and emotion.  It appears that both horse and rider are totally in sync with each other, both looking ahead to the upcoming challenge (perhaps a jump?).

You are an amazing artist, and have set the bar very, very high for the rest of us.  Thank you!

Congratulations Ric! Great program. My boss at work, who definitly is not a smith, couldn't say enough good about the show.

Always amuses me to read 'experts' making guesses. No caustic soda, no bead blasting, no power washing, just a lot of hours with wire brushes by some young fellas making wages. He has a seperate room for the clean-up work, with good ventilation, and his guys wear the proper protective gear.
Anyone coming anywhere near SW Michigan should give him a call and stop by his shop. Stewart, you are correct, he is a pro, and most definitely a good guy.

Hillbillysmith, go to the Forums page and look under feedback and support. There is a section there for tailgating. Note you need to be logged in to access it.

Well, I THINK I figured it out. I took Rich's advice and neutralized with Windex, and that helped slow down the oxidation some, but it was still happening. After a couple of weeks, the pattern became indistiguishable, just a muddy grey color, so I cleaned all the oxidation off one more time, neutralized again and oiled it. This time I left it out of the homemade sheath and just laid it on top with only a small part of the blade touching the leather. Lo and behold, the blade oxidized where it was in contact with the leather! My theory is that it is an acid tanned leather (bought it at swap meet) and that is causing the oxidation. Anyone else have any similiar issues?

Keep Trying Green! I forge welded on my first attempt, but have had many "learning experiences" (failures) since. Every attempt teaches me something. You get it if you stay persistant.

Don't know about Matthew, but I would sure like to see pics of the rebuild process and progress!

Rich, Loneforge, samcro, thanks for the help! I'll neutralize with windex ASAP. Let ya know how it turns out. loneforge, you are right, the form is very much like DH Russell belt knife (I looked them up). I bet they made knives and marketed them through Herter's. Herter's was a catalog/mail order outdoor equipment outfitter back in the day. Bass Pro and Cabela's are modeled on them.

Thanks again, Dave