It is a good idea to have a strong picture of your finished product in mind when you start a project like this. if you haven't already I strongly suggest you study the Oakeshott typology (google will get you loads of info) and look at as many antiques as you can. if you go to www.sword-site.com there are a ton of photos of antiques there as well as information on Oakeshott's typology.
as said above your tip may be too thin. the tip section on most European swords tended to be in the neighborhood of .080-.120 inches (2-3mm) thick but you need to add about .060 inches (1.5-2mm) to that for your final forged size to account for what you will take off with the grinder for shaping, sharpening, and descaling. you should start a sword by making a pre-form or what the Japanese call a sunobe. all this is, is a plain bar with the distal and profile tapers set in. so you should work your bar thinner as it goes from guard to point and narrower also. do all this before you do bevels or fullers or the tang. once you have this pre-form made you straighten it and then you can do the rest. this is actually the hardest part of the forging in my opinion because even though I Suck at forging bevels they can always be ground, filed, or scraped in pretty easily while the sword is unhardened.