TonyD

I have been doing tips for years. Not only is it a great way to passively earn, but, it gives people a way to show appreciation for the, education/instruction provided and ‘The Show’ you put on at an event. Performers should get paid! The best, and biggest, tip jar I’ve come up with is for an Old West Festival. To make the tip jar fit with the festival theme I made a 6 foot long water trough with an old-fashioned, re-circulating hand pump and a small bucket, with the bottom cut out, hanging from the spout. The other end has instructions, as a Wanted Poster, for a coin toss. The kids play all day with the pump, the horses drink, and the adults pitch in coins for a point Reward. Making another one for the Renaissance fair that will be a open visor helmet in a ‘moat’ coin toss.

Most of the time mild steel is fine as long as it is not quenched. However, due to all of the recycling you will find some pieces or even sections in the same piece will, in fact, harden sufficiently to stop drilling, usually about 1/3rd through. If the bit starts ‘clicking’ stop as it will break the bit. On these pieces it is necessary to full anneal by leaving in hot forge overnight for super slow cool. I have also found that using Black & Decker, point tip, titanium coated bits at low speed 300-500rpm cut thru like butter.

If you are just doing quick but very effective try hay rake tines. New available from Tractor Supply and others. No real smithing, just cut and bend for upside down ‘J’ and harden. You can make several out of each tine.

I have found if you lay the fanned out part, inside of socket-to-be up, on a piece of angle iron set like a ‘V’ and then striking with a cross pein will start the curve nicely. The rest of the socket can be free-formed with well placed, light blows to complete the socket. Photo of socket formed free-hand Additionally, as YesterYearForge points out, a very good bick can be formed from auto tie rod, forged and bent to 90˚, especially if welding the socket. In a pinch I have used the tapered punch end of a handled

I use the bottom 1/2 of a 30 gal water heater (gas heated tanks have a domed bottom) that sits on top of an inverted truck rim. A 1" x 6" slot is cut, just under the tire bead, for exhaust/draft and a 5" x 5" opening opposite that, on the bottom, for the fuel and fire. A small amount of paper/wood heats it up. I pitch 'clinkers' in to maintain the heat during the day. I'm in Kentucky with completely outdoor forge.