KRS

Tom, depending on the wood you might want to consider placing bitumen between the anvil and the wood. Some trees, oak particular, contain aggressive acids. The bottom paint will very likely wear off and expose the metal to acid. I had a hammer laying on a fresh oak over night, the next day it looked like it has been a month in the rain A cold anvil will draw the heat out of the working peace, don´t use a sledge while its too cold and warm the anvil up with smaller work first

The Video was made in the Saarschmiede, 5 days (and nights) forging process with a 12.000 ton press from SMS The corporate video from SMS is also worth watching, even if you don´t need such a press- right now :) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QymbDXGVckc And yes, "Sendung mit der Maus" was always great to watch

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make sure the contact area is clean and put a thin rubber in the clamp. however you fix it, do both sides while you are at it

I got my last batch beeswax with some honey on the bottom of the bucket. Rubbed the most part of it off, but it will still smell a bit.

ARMCO Iron, about 99.9 pure iron, carbon content of 0.01%

But its not too bad here :) I have read another thread elsewhere where the tenor was "Big press for making cheap toasters in the backyard"

Russia had the world largest press with 75.000 Tons until the Chinese build this one.

In my humble opinion the best wood wedges are not cut but split along the wood grain. It may take a second try to get a good fitting wedge but made from hardwood that´s easy to split you get a sturdy wedge in no time

Whoa there, you included your signature in the pattern? Is that a common thing that I missed? Need time to process this :blink:

Those are not NASCAR but I think NASCAR tires are slicks? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lvynk6_gEOY

Indeed, I could not believe it myself- it was well over a week at the scrap yard and nobody could tell me how much it is, the boss was away then. After she came back I was told to put the shear on the scale, was asked to pay the scrap price (for 230kg with the stand), payed a bit less and put it on the trunk :D Chris

Hot link removed at the request of the Anvilfire site owner. I think one of the best tools would be a grinder like this, but I have only dressed radii on used anvils- no new toys for me :( Congrats on your new anvil, post some pictures of the progress

One mans hole is another mens bending jig http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/image/38491-bender/ http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/image/38490-bender2/ Salvaged from the scrap yard, it was greased and then painted all over by the previous owner. I don´t like the color but otherwise its perfect. :P One wheel is out of track, but as long as I don´t take it to a race its ok http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/image/38493-13rp10-2/ http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/image/38492-13rp10/ Manufacture specs are: Peddinghaus 13 RP 10 (was hidden under the paint) Round 22 mm Square 20 mm L 60 x 60 x 7 mm Flat 90 x 14 mm ca. 180 kg

If you have a solid, cured concrete and a lot of screws to set "concrete screws" are a fast way. I don´t know about the approval/availability in the US. Take a good (new) stone drill, drill the hole- remove the dust- bolt it down

Jock Dempsey wrote something that I didn't knew for a long time, there was a forth hole in most(?) forged anvils:

I am really interested in how it turns out, meanwhile this is only somehow relevant to the topic but it came into my mind reading about the flares http://www.telegraph.co.uk/earth/energy/fracking/10463494/Fracking-lights-up-the-North-Dakota-sky.html That would be more then enough gas for you, I guess :)

At 3:00 he shows his die holder which might work for you

Are you talking about the Wumbrella (wall umbrella) or the guy next to it? :)

+1 for the gränsfors - with umlaut :) http://www.gransforsbruk.com/en/