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I Forge Iron


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About torvalshank

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    Southern Indiana

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  1. Thank you for the advice. Averaging the opinions from this thread, I think I'll be searching out some hickory trees, and some 1045 steel. I'll post my results when I'm done. Hopefully. ;)
  2. I do have an enormous mulberry tree hanging over my deck. Might try a handle out of that, just because I won't even have to put on shoes to get it... ;) I will locate some hickory; 3 out of 4 replies mention it, it seems to be a good consensus. As for the steel, I imagine that the typical hot-rolled stuff probably won't be that good then, if I'm wanting a slightly higher carbon-content?
  3. Hello! So many beautiful axes in this thread, I feel completely humbled by all of the artistry. I am working towards making my first axe. I still have to make my drifts before I can do it, but hopefully soon after that I'll be starting. I had a couple of simple questions though; at least, hopefully simple questions. One, how many sizes of drift do you think I need? I have a slit punch that I made, but I am curious if I should do a 1/2, 3/4, and 1 inch drift, or if just a 3/4 and a 1 inch will do the job? Wouldn't be difficult to make the extra one, but I'm just curious what the expert
  4. With 34 acres, I can hide my clay mine VERY well. ;) As for the original topic of this thread, I have also talked it over with a local smith, (in addition to you fine gentlemen,) and he is going to give me a hand putting in the chimney later this summer, before it gets cold. Otherwise, I am just practicing away. Maybe one day I'll make something pretty enough to take a picture of. ;) Thank you all for your help.
  5. Got it. High-quality Grade-A backyard mud. From only the finest of backyards. ;)
  6. I'd like something hard enough to let me move coal around on it with the scraper, so I can manage my fire better. So I think the ash is probably out. Any kind of mud in particular, or just muddy mud?
  7. Ok. Thank you all for the advice. I think I'm going to go with the 12" galvanized then, when I go to install this permanently in my shop. For now though, I will continue to drag it outside when I want to use it. The chimney can come in a few months, before winter hits. And I may leave the opening this size for now, rather than enlarging it. My next quest is a cheap source of refractory; the brake rotor being used as a firepot sits about half an inch up above the top of the drum, and I would like to line the rest of the drum with enough refractory to level it out with that, and give me a b
  8. Well, where I was pricing it earlier, I could get 12" black stove pipe for something over a dollar an INCH, in 20 or 24 inch sections. Whereas galvanized 12" pipe was about $16 for 5 feet. Big cost difference, around here anyway. Perhaps I'll order a piece of black stove pipe for the first few feet, and then run the rest with galvanized. Once I'm more than a couple of feet up above the forge, it should be cool enough to not burn the galvanized. Do you think? Now for the life of me I cannot find where I found that price on the black stuff. Only thing I can find now is more than twice as exp
  9. Here is a picture of the forge. I plan on widening the bottom of the opening in that upper barrel, so that I have better access to the fire from a wider angle. Do you think that will negatively effect the drafting abilities of the "hood," or will the 12" stovepipe pretty much take care of the draft easily enough when attached to the top of the drum? Something similar to this, but probably not quite as far back. I will need more material than that around the bottom of the top barrel for structural reasons, as the top barrel is just resting on the bottom one, and I don't own a welder to
  10. Hey all! I recently built a forge, and am going to be moving it inside eventually. I originally planned on using the existing 6" stovepipe that I have in the barn, but based on my reading, that won't handle the smoke from my coal forge. So I started looking at 10 and 12 inch stove pipe. After recovering from the minor heart attack that the prices gave me, I started looking for alternatives. Would something like this work for a chimney? 12" galvanized ducting from Lowes, $16 per 60 inches. I currently have a 55 gallon drum acting as my hood, and it will have to pass throu
  11. My first forge...brake-rotor forge set into the top of a drum. 2" black iron pipe and floor flange for air and ash cleanout, (cap on the bottom piece.) Another drum on top to act as a hood. Air supply is a $10 hair dryer, which is working like a charm. Anvil is a piece of rail road track on a "custom built" scrap 4x4 stand. Drums are not actually attached to each other, the upper one just has the lip cut off and the edge peened in a little bit so that it sits inside the lip of the lower one. I use it outside now, so being able to lift it apart and move it easily is a big thing. The t
  12. I know this topic is a bit older, but as another beginner, I'd like to chime in. I made a pair of simple tongs as my first project, out of some scrap rebar I had lying around. I heated it and hammered it flat, leaving a bit of the ridges along the narrow edges. Then heated one end, and stood it on the narrow side and hammered the last inch and a half flat, to make one jaw. Did the same thing again on another piece to get the other jaw. The hardest part for me was getting them to work well together; they kept catching against each other, one way or another. What finally did it for me
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