eggwelder

seller says its just a rust line. turns out he doesn't want to sell it that badly, at least not for what i can afford. if anyone was interested in the hammer or that car, he asked if i could pass on his email. PM only

Got some pics. dies are beat up and the rust line by the lower die concerns me. could it be a welded crack?

I'm still waiting for pics. i can and have poured babbit, can even weld too. have a spring guy that can do wonders with spring making. i have more time than money.

my brother ships 53 foot trailers full of heat recovery units all over North America, so shipping is negligible 

my champion blower is over 100 years old, i had to make a new wood handle for the crank. i use it for charcoal forges, which i vastly prefer over propane or coal. 

i don't like that either. especially since its not something you buy or even see every day. i don't mind the guy making a buck or two on it.. thats how the world goes round.

Soooo, whats a good ballpark offer on a weathered "0" with one set of dies?

 I forgot about the Aleutians.

I`m posted to St john`s. we have a small gov`t building on the site of the former Fort Pepperell US base.

If I purchase said hammer, my brother will be shipping it out to me, at least to Halifax, where it can sit in my sisters yard till I get across the water to pick it up this summer hopefully.

 all I need this thing to do is to pound out tomahawk blades, I can`t keep up with the demand I have, and my shoulders and elbows are getting old.

It was a Chevy Imperial Landau. made at the Oshawa plant GM is closing in Canada. all the wood is gone, ive been picking away at it for a number of years now, 28 yrs to be exact, have never driven it...maybe I should get that model A along with the hammer.

the hammer is a 0 and comes with 1 set of dies. I should have pics later today or early tomorrow

the Model A is for sale too, not mine so I can`t sell it. as much as I would like to buy it, I already have a `28 chevy project.

I'm waiting for pics, have not heard from the guy yet since this morning.

this is the only pic i`ve seen if it. it is that little thing on the left.

have a chance to buy an old Chamion blower and Forge power hammer. it does turn, but probably has not been run in at least 25 years. has been sitting outside for at least 10. it is located in Saskatchewan on a farm, so no real exposure to salts etc. i`ve only seen pictures of it as yet. i don't know the exact size, and the current owner claims to have never used it.

i need a ballpark estimate of prices on these particular hammers so that i can make an offer. i know i`ll probably get flamed for the limited amount of information that i am giving, but lets say it will need at least a partial rebuild and only one set of dies.

any help will be appreciated. i`ve asked for more pictures to my email and will post them should i get some.

i had mine cast at Nisku foundry in Edmonton, AB.  around 2001.it was cast from their biggest pattern they had kept from the "old days" which is a 100lb. they normally cast sewer grates and manhole covers and my anvil was the first they cast in about 30 - 40 years.they were not actually sure. cast in ductile iron and they recommended a face hardening weld which i never did get around to doing. it has dents and dings and a small chunk taken out of the face while i was learning how to hit steel. it's still in good shape otherwise and only cost me $290.00 + tax. it rings nicely

that all being said, if a pattern is provided, nisku foundry might do a custom cast

lol,.....

jon

renowned survivalist and instructor Mors Kochanski wears a neck knife, and if you call him, he`ll answer his phone if he's near it and explain why he does.

On November 13, 2015 at 4:36 PM, navasky said:

The handle is about 20 inches.

As others have said rail anchors range from about 1040-1060 depending on the manufacturer. This one was triple normalized, hardened in canola oil, and triple tempered at 425. The body was drawn back to spring temper with a propane torch. No dies or swages used, just some grinding in between forging steps.

In defense of round eyes, viking axes were commonly made with round eyes, so were trade axes. They won't turn on the haft if you hang them right and they're strong and easy to rehang in the field. They're not great for splitting though.

I make round eye all the time, they don`t spin or turn as you might expect. i have lots of these, I`ll be trying them, i love the simplicity

the blackish finish i get is usually a combination of temper colours and oil from the quench. but i`ll be looking into the black oxide

in 1984, i picked stumps and stones, shoveled cow and pig manure, and scraped grease off old engine blocks. all for 4 bones an hour. Canadian. course, i smoked then and those were $4 a pack

Japanese  hammers definitely resemble those Viking hammers, the weight forward of the handle, that i`ve seen on some other websites.

Reason it doesn`t stick  is because nothing adhesive wise really sticks to copper. paint, epoxy, what have you. paint with copper in it does not stick to itself (think boat bottom paint), and constantly sloughs off. some of us have tried it and failed in most aspects. it oxidizes constantly and quickly, just not in great volume like steel/rust. it also does not need to be exposed to oxygen to oxidize(or something like that). a coating of the copper oxide on copper will protect the copper for a long time, unlike rust on steel, but is easily removed. also why pressure treated wood does not glue well, as copper is/was used in the green preservative stuff. JB weld works ok, but for how long?

maybe try tinning it with silver solder first, then using an adhesive that is compatible to the solder.

i made a knife with copper pommel and "guard" and its still holding with JB, but i also sanded it with 100grit prior to glueing. mechanical bond only.

if there is any metallurgists that can confirm or deny my above, i would certainly appreciate it either way.

how do you do the black oxide? i like the black (ish) finish, and try to get it on my blades. usually turns brown and mostly by luck. is it a chemical process?

i made my slitter for cutting tomahawk eyes from one, won`t harden, but i just file it sharp when it needs it.

I make them into tomahawks, not made a knife yet. sold about a dozen, said that they are "just " railway spikes. they trow nicely, as may of you know, and the first guy that bought one from me came back the next year for three more. 

that being said, if they hit the back of another hawk already in the target, you`ll need a file.

Definitely would want the guy carrying it to be on my side…..

made 2 of these from one, have not used the bent end yet, paid 6$ made $394 when i sold them. buy them when i see them, but check them out first. some of the chinese ones have "cold shuts" in them from the forging process. tempered with plumbers torch to purply-blue at the blade, blue at the hammer end. good call Frosty. motor oil quench for both hardening and tempering. 

i`d call it the vixen, as it still has the tooth pattern on it.

i think i'll be giving the wood chunks a try, as making charcoal for me right now is not an efficient process yet. 

just did my first forging with charcoal tonight. made the charcoal, mixed hardwood pallet wood mostly, but also did a batch of pine branches that the ice brought down last winter. also made a batch of generic spruce charcoal, sourced from crates that snowblowers and snowmobiles are shipped in. forge is made from clay and sand dug from my property. blower is a 100 year old champion that leaks oil like a sieve. have to keep oiling it or it makes funny clanky noises. made a tomahawk from 3/4 inch bar in about 1.5 hrs. compared to gas, it was about 1 hour faster than my propane forge, and 0 carbon footprint. the scale was softer and much less, it came off easily with a wire brush. will try a knife unplugged next time.

 the pine charcoal was by far the fastest burning, but the heat was beautiful, heating the steel in single digit minutes to working heat. the spruce charcoal was borderline useless, and the mixed pallet wood was satisfactory. forge may have to be redesigned to be deeper, but that will be after my next posting.

i bring this up to add more fuel to the charcoal fire discussion.

so been a few weeks and honestly this THING IS KILLING MY MIND!!!! and i have no good reasonable reason for it, this is the dumbest cool piece i have ever messed with. I have a system I draw it, name it, forge, bend, weld, texture, and finish. This stupid thing just came out on a whim all weird and undrawn, frankly un-natural and at first I was just super stoked cause i thought it looked supper cool. However I did not come to be by my minds proper channels, it broke the "rules" so now my mind is split cause it can not love a "RULE BRAKER!!!!!!"  So I want to get it out of my house cause it tortures me every time I lay my Gaze toward it!!! 

 

Love it. add lighting and sell it in NYC or Toronto for $3800!

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